Chris`I

Ah that might explain it then

im a jdm 03 aswell and i cant find mine either! at least im not the only one! As you chaps have probably worked out by now, its UK cars that have 2 power points, JDMs just have the one behind the seats

+1 break up the bar and put the bits into freezer bags. By breaking it up, you use the right amount, but also if you drop it, you havent dropped a load of clay that you have to throw away! A bar of Supernatural will do a car 3 times at least, its great stuff, I used it on mine last time around. I find it milder than Megs normal clay, that or Born Slippy is a better lubricant than Megs QD. Either way DD combo is less agressive than Megs combo

Its not the brushes themselves that will scratch the paint, its the dirt they are moving around and pushing into the paint. MF cloths and dedicated wash mits are designed to attract the dirt up into the pile and away from the paint, so you arent dragging it over the paint - thus stopping it scratching the paint. Brushes just push dirt around and worse, push it against the paint

Agreed, its just a marketing thing. Joe Bloggs wont realise that Tesco99 is the same as BP Ultimate and Shell Optimax, so they've given it a jazzy name to catch peoples attention

Candy Apple FTW

Good write up, I'd suggest its maybe a good idea to update the post with the order of washing too, turn it into a complete washing guide

Good write up - very similar to one I read on DetailingWorld some years ago.

Not a lot really. I'll let the petrol gurus (Mart/Stew/etc) tell you, but it all comes from the same place, just Shell/BP put different additives in the fuel to keep the system clean (allegedly). Unless you run more than one tank, you wont really be able to tell the difference between fuels as the car wont adjust in time to give good comparison

A pot of Dodo SN will last you years. I have had a pot for 18+ months and only used half of it, and thats waxing my car, the missus and the old dears with it too! It lasts aaaaaages! You have to put it on really thin, remember anythin you buff off is wasted

Try pinging it off with your fingernail to get rid of the most of it, then finish it off with a claybar

If you use super one week and normal another, it wont be tuning the fuel maps for the super when you put it in, its not having time to adjust, so you are always getting worse performance and MPG. TBH I did a fair bit of testing when I got mine, and performance aside, I found that the increase in MPG more than paid for super over normal fuel. Coupled to that we have seen cars loose as much as 20-30BHP on the dyno because of standard fuel, and its really not worth running it. Just get super and be happy with driving it

The SSR range is great stuff. Start with SSR1 as Rob suggests and you can work up to SSR2 and SSR2.5 if required. Personally, if applying by hand, I would just jump straight in with SSR2 as working by hand doesnt really work the polish hard. One of the benefits of SSR is it doesnt have fillers, so when you get rid of the swirls, they are gone, not just hidden until you wash the car

How many miles does it have on it Geoff? You are very much on track with what you plan to do. If its brand spanking new, then a quick wash, polish with Lime Prime, followed by some Dodo Supernatural and a day later some Red Mist. If it has a few miles on it, then I'd suggest claying it before polishing it.

I liked this one...

I'd expect nothing less John Of course i was directing my comments at generic eBay bulbs

You obviously didnt pay much attention to Robs car on Sunday (bar his wheels!)

Shouldnt have a problem with LED indicators and LED fogs loads of people run when they have cleared out the fog cluster. You need W21W fitment for them. Plenty of people do them on eBay too. The trouble I had with the fog was getting one bright enough. For indicators I would just go with Phillips SilverVisions and be happy with that, as a filament bulb blinks better than LEDs IMO. With the reverse light, I can see you struggling to get something bright enough to actually be useful, as in the 350z the bulb doesnt point straight back, rather at an angle, so you need an LED bulb that will radiate light so that the reflector has something to shine out the back. If not, and you get a directional LED bulb, it will light up somewhere to the rear left of the car

I think there are a few small holes towards the back of the port, which arent designed for anything to go into them. Somehow he got them into one of those holes, so whos knows how it will come out. If it were taken to Nissan, I could see them saying it needed a new fob port and key fob

Yes the Japspeed really is that bad, so I wouldnt advise getting it. As previously stated, get a Scorpion. CS (Mitz) does thes as does Chilli Red I believe.

Should be set up for a while with that lot! To be fair, its not often that you have to fork out that much. That lot should last you a good couple of years before needing to replace stuff (bar snow foam). Most of the stuff will last for years and years

IMO there is a massive difference between the older 350z and the 370z. The 370 is tigher, grippier and has way more grunt than the 350. Its just better in every respect, you just dont realise how much until you get it somewhere like a track or good driving roads like North Wales. Well worth the step up if you have the cash available

Good spot, usually it adds the link automatically, dont know why it didnt this time

Chris, I think you meant to put or and not for the photo link Nope, pic is bigger than the forum will let you display, so intentially made it a link and underlined so people know its a link