rtbiscuit

quite possibly, they are only a couple of mm thick at most. will give full dimensions once i have one in my hand. but from memmory they are no thicker than the OEM badges.

Looking forward to it bud Is that an automated response you have set up? Or do you write that every time? don't know yet, will hopefully know by the end of tonight

don't know yet, will hopefully know by the end of tonight

Rear badge: 1.Rtbiscuit 2. Jay 3. hotrain 4. Scottsoulby 5. M350ZB 6. JT1703 ( black Zed ) 7. Lexx 8. Jim (black Zed) 9. Blacky (black Zed) 10. Rory 11. D350z 12. Budge 13. BRO-T 14. loafer77 (black or brushed silver type? zed) 15. GrantMitchell (brushed silver?? - will decide when I see samples) 16. Austin350z 17. AndyZed (Black Zed) 18. Side wing badges (carbon fibre background/gloss black/no background/something else) 1. rtbiscuit 2. Stew (gloss black) 3. hotrain (CF) 4. M350ZB (CF) 5. Blacky (black logo) 6. BRO-T (CF) 7. AndyZed (gloss black) 8. front nose badge (carbon fibre background/gloss black/no background/something else) 1. hotrain (CF to fit indent) 2. BRO-T (no back ground) 3. loafer77 (Gloss black to fit indent) 4. Grantmitchell (decide when I see some samples) 5. AndyZed Gloss black to fit ident) 6. Wheel centres 1. rtbiscuit 2. M350ZB 3. Zazur 4.

i have but not taken pics yet. basically look at your headlights. where the orange blub is menatally change it to silver so it matches the internals of the headlight and Robert's your mothers brother!

sounds like you have a leak somewhere. its a sealed system, so no pressure means all the gas has disappeared/got low, or its leaked out.

looks good, just need some silver indicators in the headlights to get rid of the fried eggs

as others have said, halfrauds is ok for little touch ups. my best recommendation is actually to use www.paints4u.com they have the best paints available in the best cans, they have special nozzles for better spraying, less chance of drip etc. and there color match on my old metallic blue MR" roadster was almost spot on. but you will pay more, there cans are about £12 a piece. if not more. but the quality is there.

like i said earlier would be interested in taking it off your hands if the price is right, am happy to pay you and wait for you to get your spacer before sending it out. just depends on what you want for it.

i might be interested in the plenum, but i have nothing to swap it with

PIAA are awesome, and when used with rain x or similar i can drive at motor way speeds in monsoon type rain without having to use my wipers, the water just beads off. to be honest it does it at anything of about 40 mph or higher. i'd also be interested in a replacement rubber for the drivers side, mine got damaged in the winter when i switched it on by accident with a frosty screen, i can tell there is minor blade damage as i have a tiny mist patch in the middle when i clear the screen

most people mod the car for noise only. i run a Typhoon CAI and an invidia True Dual Exhaust (they are for the noise) = if bought form new that would set you back about £1200 at some point i plan to change the plenum or add a spacer and maybe sports cats = easily another £700 so already pushing £2000 there is also a possibility for re flashing the ECU, but nothing has been seen in the UK as yet and we are all watching a thread on it at the moment (search for RStuning) might see a cost of around £500 so that would see me spend easily £2500 to get 24 bhp if I'm lucky and if i was already on 276 bhp to start with that works out at a cost of around £104 for every horse you gain. i don't know if i'll got hat far, I'm quite happy with the setup i have, some of the changes i have planned are partly aesthetic. ... as a comparison if you went supercharger route, i think the out lay is around £10,000 to do it properly, might be less, but definitely over £5000, so best case scenario i'll take the middle figure £7500 and it should see you to around 400 bhp so a gain of around 124 bhp at a cost of around £60.48 for every BHP gained. theoretically supercharging is cheaper and would give more power and torque, but the outlay is big, how ever you look at it. hope that helps

i've just got some ballasts and igniters to replace the damaged ones i have, i got them in the states, will this affect them, as i'm not sure which bits your plugging or unplugging. i'm fairly certain the bit i have only controls the current to the HIDs i don't think it affects the self levellers.

i would have waited on fitting, it was so much easier cleaning mine up when it was off the car, took alot of elbow grease, you might find it alot harder on the car, or only do the bits you can see.

Why 300? If you really want an easy 300bhp, just sell yours and buy an '06 or GT4 Wheres the fun in that? + if i had the money to buy an 06 model....i would of the money you'll spend getting it there, you might as well have saved up and got an 06

i have the same problem with the invidia, they both very similar exhausts

also how do i run a poll on this thread to find out how many people have had/do have/don't have a clicking axle problem. when i was with the new civic honda club, they were well linked with honda uk and regularly ran consumer surveys etc on the cars for honda and gave them feedback, we even used to get honda posts or memos commenting on any issues we had picked up, and what if anything they planned to do.

is that the UK figures i'm guessing not the amount on the forum so how many do we have on the forum out of interest, and whats the likelihood of linking the other forum to it as the more we have the better, or even if someone wants to run a mirror thread on the other site to save hassle and posting issues.

i'd be up for it.

there can't be that many 350z's in the country, they are no where near as common as the TT, i don't know how many members we have on here, but i'd be interested to know of the amount of people on here who has suffered from rear clicking syndrome. if i have all the numbers i could work out a national average.

i know what you mean, but while the cost of sending an email and a stamp are inexpensive i thought i would be a nusanse to nissan for a bit, probably won't get very far, but i don't like being treated like i'm stupid or insignificant. and nissan have done both. they tried to fob me off with it not being their fault and they have tried to make me feel insignificant by basically saying we're big, we say no,m there is nothing you can do. at the end of the day, i have a re grease kit on stand by with ZmanAlex but i just wanted to see how far i could push this. i wouldn't expect a nissan mechanic to openly condemn their own employer its the old biting the hand that feeds you situation. but maybe they could quitely pm me details or confidential memos

all good and valid points and i completely agree, but the lady at the centre said that nissan, as will other manufacturers disregard anything to do with forums as they say "it could be written by anyone" they have said they can recommend a suitable centre to check the part over to make a diagnosis on the part and give a definitive answer on if the part is faulty at manufacture. but I'm dubious about paying someone to tell me something i already know with out the guarantee that nissan will pay up at the end of it. do we have any nissan mechanics who post on here?

thats good but doesn't point towards a failed part at manufacture, just what needs to be replaced depending on the location of the noise

whats a TSB i'm guessing its not a bank related thing

i've got the invidia true dual which is similar, i haven't noticed any power loss. paid £200 for mine and spent another £160 having a new flexi-joint welded in as the old one had snapped. my main problem was finding somewhere to tig weld it. as not many garages actually do it.