rtbiscuit

very stealth like, kinda makes me think of night rifer when it looks like that (its meant to be a compliment) sorry if your not a nightrider fan

because nissan couldn't find a nipple in a b00bfest if there life depended on it.

interesting, hadn't thought about tyre pressure, when i did my track day i set my stones to 40 psi all round, and that worked well, but it was a harder ride, will have to see what these are like when i get them fitted

my first was a rover 214, cant really call it a performace car, but it got me from A to B ( i played with it, and it was a laugh to drive) - then 306 gti6 (awesome car, would p1$$ on a lot of cars, was a bit of a stealth car weighed nothing, had a cracking 6speed box(one of the first cars to have one)) - mr2 roadster (played around with that, great car, superb handling, and bloody quick for what it was) i know several who have turbo'ed them or even done a V6 conversion, (turbo for £2500, V6 conversion for £4500, all for a car that you can now buy for £4000) - had to go diesel for a bit and had the 2.2 new style civic type S gt (was a type R with a diesel engine same setup etc, and loads of torque) possibles to look at: - mx5 (i know its a bit girly but drive one, and you'll be impressed, and the turbo or supercharger conversion that you can get is unbeliavable) - clio cup 182 (insane track car, would shame alot of other bigger cars) - bmw mini cooper S (go for the slightly older version with the supercharger not the turbo, cracking fun to drive handles like its on rails) - alfa GTV (they did a V6 still not a cheap car to insure, but cheap to buy, and the interiors are stunning, the engine especially the V6 sings) - MR2 roadster (so easy to tune, with some fairly cheap chassis mods as well you can start pushing elise handling performance territory, plus you can drop the top,) what most have in common is they are light, look at the power to weights and you can easily get a drivers car. i've owned one on that list and driven the others, and all have brought a regualr smile to my face. the MR2 in particular had me regularly beaming from ear to ear. i'm sure others could add to it, i've run short of ideas at such short notice, but if you want me to i can add to it or i can just shut up and you can buy a zed

oh god; the horde returns

miffed is probably the wrong word to use, a bit strong in its term, i suppose when i was twenty i didn't have a lot of cash, and i've worked hard Thats because you went to Uni? being a teacher I assume/hope you did I've been working since i was 16, which is how I can afford the stuff I buy & I would guess that a few of the other younger members are the same true, i was at uni, had 2 jobs as well to help pay for the alchol but i still remember seeing other students with big powerful cars, and they never worked either i was born into the wrong family obviously like i said before if pees can afford it, its their money and can spend it on what they like; remember i'm not your dad

if it didn't run into term time i would have loved to have come must try and make it one year, might have to quit my job to do it though

miffed is probably the wrong word to use, a bit strong in its term, i suppose when i was twenty i didn't have a lot of cash, and i've worked hard as for going from a low engine power into big engine power of course it makes them more of a risk, its like swapping a pistol for a ak47 both are dangerous, but your a hell of a lot more likely to do damage with an AK47. i'm not saying that coming from lower powered cars means your less experienced, just not a used to the power, and more likely not as used to RWD, generally inexperienced/young drivers and big power cars are a higher risk for a reason, insurance companies don't weight their premiums that way just for fun.

coming on nicely, i suppose now would be a good time to put in uprated engine parts like cams, valves, pistons, pulleys etc

god i feel your agony on this, had my old car on ramps for 3 months, and its torture not being able to drive your baby.

might be worth looking on the brembo site, and find the part numbers through them

yes, sell you an new aftermarket front bumper

if its easily repairable i'd do it then sell it. i did this with a Greddy lip, bought it repaired it and sold it on to pay for my nismo kit. i won't tell you what i paid for it but to give you an idea your probably looking at between £40-£60 to repair that, i would say its about 1-2 hours work, so what ever the body shop hourly rate is, and thats without spraying it up as well. hope that helps

congrats on the buy now get modding

just to pre warn you the front badge does come out, but it leavesa burger shaped hole in the front with 2 location holes. only way to either debadge, or put a TK in there would be to get a bodyshop to fill and respray the whole bumper. or change to an aftermarket bumper good luck with the modding

Without sounding rude, i struggle slightly when i see people at 20 getting into something like the Zed, i worked my way up the car ladder if you like and built my experience of cars up with the cars that i've had. and the majority of them (except my first ) have all been drivers cars. i kind of feel i've earned the Zed, and feel a bit miffed when i see people jump from a 1.2 corsa to a zed etc. the high premiums are there to deliberately put people off, as generally the sub 25 category are the most likely to crash, and hence push up all our premiums. I'm not saying you have to earn your Zed, and fair play to the many on here who did get one at 20/21 etc, if you can afford to do it then go for it at the end of the day its your money, and you earned it and you can spend it one what ever you like. but for me its a lot of money to spend on insurance when you could get something with a slightly smaller engine and have a shed load left to spend on modding, for like the next 3 years. as your insurance won't drop anywhere close to a grand for at least 3 years. you could easily spend £5000 over 3 years just in insurance. if you want some worthy alternative car suggestions i think alot of us could think of some equally driver focussed cars that wouldn't cost you an arm and a leg. ( know i'm going to get slated for this post, but its my personal view, and if you do get one, then i'd be more than happy to help you out with modding suggestions or anything else you'd need on the forum) Good luck with what ever you do, and good car hunting (i always think thats one of the best bits )

being hubcentric is important as it will mean they run perfectly, you wouldn't want something that was a fraction off centre that then caused a wheel vibration. and sadly you pay for the accuracy of the item.

+1, i'd never bother with a car if i couldn't get the insurance under £1000, sorry, just my point of view

personally when it comes to the parts which hold your wheels on, i wouldn't be looking at the cheapest, i'd be focusing on the ones that are tried and tested. to be honest most come in at that price, B2 does some but once you add import tax etc its about the same. the eibachs are tried and tested, and we know that the wheels don't fall off, and the bolts don't shear.

normally closer to £200, he got them with the august discount

+1 on the tyre pressure, never trust tyre fitters to put the right amount of air in all round, i'd check them all just in case. Nice rims by the way

just double check your warranty, i know a few people on here have had problems, and then got to claim and they won't payout., but i can't remember who they were with. might be worth a search. congrats on the purchase and i may well see you down at the Ace cafe meet. also quite a few of us are going up to leicester in a couple of weeks time for the big CS meet. alot of the regular posters from here should be there, and you'd be more than welcome to tag along. might be worth adding your location to your sig, so people might be able tl help you out if you need it or know to invite you to meets if your local etc.

Depends if you want to run camber or not Mine is lowered 25mm in the rear & I have a bit of neg camber. If my wheels were straight then they would rub against the arches. i'm sure i remember someone saying some cars need it and others don't, because the zed camber is already close to the limit, and with some cars when you drop them they fall out side of the Zeds adjustment range, and so require a camber adjustment bolt. is that just at the rears, or is it front and rear. i'm not changing wheels, so wondered if i might get away with it. as i'll be dropped on standard rays. if i do need camber adjust how much is it for front and for rear?

your doing better than me at the moment, i need to get of my ar$e and dig out the tap and dies from work so i can fit mine

i'm hoping that toyota build there HT-FC (i think thats what its called) its still a concept at the moment, but there was serious talk of building it. its been dubbed by some as the new supra. i like it as it offers similair power as the zed with a V6, but has new hybrid technology. elelctric motors mean direct power, so fast to pull away, but with some of the tax advantages of going hybrid, i'm happy to wait and see what happens, it may turn out to be a dog. and i have no plans to change for about 4 years anyway. there may well be something else that comes out that floats my boat. lexus have a new coupe due soon, but it looks very expensive.