rtbiscuit

yeah no worries, i'm guessing it was a keying error; thats the problem with homer simpson hands very true gyroscopic effect plays a big part like rotational mass, almost more so than unsprung and sprung weight Unsprung weight is one thing, rotational mass is quite another. Reducing rotational mass is the key one here because not only do you have to drag the mass of the component upto the speed of the car (as in it is part of the car), but you also have to spin it up to its rotational speed. Hence you have to perform two sets of acceleration on it! Of course, what we actually need to know is the angular momentum. This will give you the energy used to spin up the component. the higher your angular momentum, the more your gyroscopic effect. Hence, the faster your heavy large diameter wheels spin, the more resistance they have to having their direction altered. This can cause allsorts of issues with handling. The Powerball works on gyroscopic forces and if you have ever had a go, you know how difficult it can be to manipulate when spinning. If your an IT techie, pick up a hard drive when it's on, gently move it about and you can feel the gyro resisting/magnifying your movements (I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR DATA LOSS IF YOU DO THIS AND DROP THE DRIVE smile.gif ) In addition, the engine, clutch, flywheel spinning will cause a yawing effect. Granted, not mega, but it's present and it's something to be minimised (can be quite a serious problem on motorbikes, not to mention Helicopters and radial engined aircraft!). So when people go on about 19" wheels wrecking the handling, you now know why one of the heaviest parts of the wheel is actually the tyre, i'm sure those of you who have light weight wheels will tell you, you could probably pick one alloy up with 1 finger, but add a tyre and its a whole different matter.

if it was that it bad you should have been doing 40-50 mph

i'm impressed that a typhoon filter and a nismo exhaust make an extra 48 BHP and all that with out a remap. that car is a rolling miracle. next thing is it will float on water, fly and cure lepers.

my guess is that if it was to be an accurate test then they must have run the same tyres on both wheels i.e. brand and model of tyre. without the original article i don't know. yep less weight to move so the car lights them up easier there are lighter wheels than the rays out there. all have an effect and change the characterisitcs. i think it was a fast ford issue from this month. must admit i'm not a fan of 0-60 drag racing, wheres the fun in going fast in a straight line, any moron can do that. going fast round a corner now thats a whole different ball game.

icame across this else where, its an extract from a recent fast ford magazine that had some interesting information and tests done on light weight wheels. Anyway, I thought a few of you may be interested in this... They have a very good test in this month's edition. They have a tuned Fiesta ST that is running 215bhp. They changed the standard ST wheels for Team Dynamic Pro Race 1.2s which are altogether 12kg lighter. They mention that 12kg unsprung weight is equivalent to around 48kg weight saving from the chassis. They undertook 4 tests - Test 1 - Braking. 60-0mph and 100-0mph Test 2 - Handing. A timed lap around a circuit Test 3 - Standing start acceleration to 60mph Test 4 - In gear acceleration. 30-80mph Results - All tests were performed 3 or 4 times and the times were then averaged. Results were gained using a Racelogic Performance Box. Test 1 - Before 60-0 = 3.2s Before 100-0 = 5.3s G = 0.97 After 60-0 = 3.0s After 100-0 = 4.8s G = 1.07 Test 2 - Before = 1:28.6 After 1:24.3 Test 3 - Before 0-60 = 6.9s Before 0-100 = 17.8s Quarter mile = 15.7 @ 94mph After 0-60 = 7.4s After 0-100 = 18.0s Quarter mile = 15.9 @ 94mph Test 4 - Before 30-80 = 8.8s After 30-80 = 8.3s I'm sure you'll agree there is some intersting results there. Quite a difference on the timed circuit. They said they thought the 0-60 times were down on the standard wheels as there was less mass for the engine to turn, therefore the wheels tended to spin more when applying the accelerator. Hope this is of some use to some people!

i only say this as i want his wheels,

husky's - ghey

ians - zooooom

only kidding, looks really good, am impressed with the mirror mounts, a really nice finish. if you have some spare you can also do the rear strut brace. you can remove the whole silver bit, which makes it a doddle to wrap. and if you take the badges off first you can reattatch them for a very clean finish. or for uber clean, you can even fill the dimples first before wrapping.

sounds like a body shop job to correct them, am guessing they are original nismos and not copies. if originals have they had a knock? if so they may just need a re fit and adjustment if copies, then they will probably never fit flush.

i'm praying for the weather to hold out till my new wheels arrive and i can get proper tyres back on. and i'm glad my firm but cheeks are the reason people love me

my tyres are nearly on the markers and i am waiting to sort out new tyres for the new wheels. i had a similiar experience in the S2K, we slowed down but my but cheeks were clenched so tight i could have folded a 50p piece in half with them.

didn't know about the change form april, and must admit i always classed faxes and photocopies as the same. didn't know they took faxes. i think the big thing is that some post offices are more "friendly" than others

as long as they are fitted properly there shouldn't be an issue.

post offices don't actually accept photocopies or faxes of insurance certificates (or they're not meant to). also if you know your getting the car; then why not just organise the insurance properly in the first place. sorry to hear you had to go through this and hope you get it all sorted quickly.

he rang me up and got me to fit them to be honest john did all the hard work, i just acted more as a consultative role. we did a good job, they are easy to fit, just take your time.

yep we fitted these the other weekend, look very minimal on your wheels. they make a big difference when it comes to curbing panic attacks. you need to hurry up and get the pics up of this and a review, now you have driven on them for a week or so.

is it not repairable, as long as the puncture is far enough away from the edge they will repair it good as new for you. i had one of my vredesteins done on the zed, and i've had ones done other cars as well. costs about £20-£30

royal purple 5w30 was my tipple of choice, worked well and never had any oil burning issues

someone like wicked wheels can do a repair for around £40

nissan dealers are well known for being crap. find a good independent and will, you should name and shame as it will save others having to deal with them.

never did it to my car but seen and heard other peoples doors who had, door has more of a german sound to it; if you get what i mean; once you dyno mat it. think most do it when they are upgrading the speakers to improve sound, and to insulate the car from exterior noise and to stop rattles. i believe its just a door card off job, and insulate away. speak to chris I as i believe he did it to his old car. and possibly H5 as he was big into his audio setups.

this is normal, but can be cured by dyno matting out the doors

i believe so if any one in the northampton area is able to help out our russian comrade out with a brief wheel swap to see if it cures the issue, i think he would most appreciate it.

put the stock rims back on and see if the problem is still there. if no problem then it was the new wheels.