Keith D

Realistically supercharging will probably be 2nd half of the year. (Depends if I land a contract I'm hoping for in Jan, which will mean 6 months of long hours) The rad blurb says its for a manual, my car is auto. Is it still the right one?

Welcome and enjoy! I don't know what it is about blue paint, but to me it always looks cracking under lights at night time events. I nearly bought a 350z convertible in blue 20-odd years ago, I even got as far as putting a deposit down, but went for a blue Mitsubishi GTO import instead for a project car. So far I've got all my parts either at the local stealers or @Coz@TORQEN (who is brilliant)

Washed and waxed the car to within an inch of its life... well what else are the days between xmas and NY for? 🤣 Photo doesn't do it justice, its spotless top to bottom inside and out. I'm thinking I'll probably address the cooling next so it's ready for supercharging. Being a 2015 it shouldn't have the gallery gasket issue, but if I fit a Mishimoto rad and an oil cooler, is it worth replacing gaskets and screws whilst access is good, or is the original good for the life of the engine? Anyone have thoughts?

Shame, I'm still saving for a supercharger kit + oil cool kit + FI plugs etc, a grand off would be the deal of the century 🤣

Never seen one, Nissan only built a few hundred I believe?

The 370z is our 3rd car, I have it on limited miles policy and pay £380 a year fully comp, zero excess & protected no claims

Just checking before I order, I assume this is for a pair?

The wheel speed sensors transmits a variable analogue voltage to the ABS module, where they will be transformed and from there sent to the cluster as a CAN speed message. So in theory you could change the voltage range by changing the wheel speed sensors to ones with a different range, or by fitting resistors in to the harness. But will be a lot of trial and error buggeration I doubt on my best day I'd have the patience for. You'll need to fix all 4 otherwise the ABS module will get confused and think the front wheels are going faster/slower than the rears and pull on the TC, then probably get really confused and go into a limp mode or even sorry you're not going anywhere I'm not playing mode. All things considered I'd look again for the right gauge overlay, or if I can't find one look for a company who could print me one.

If a car is written off the insurer owns the salvage don't they? Or did you ask for the salvage?

Before covid I used to drive 15k miles a year and change my every day driver for a new one every 3 years. Since covid I work from home 4 days a week, drive about 3k miles a year, and can't justify a new car to myself. I know most of my colleagues are the same.

Hi Devon, I believe so! I remember liking your wheels. Catch up next time maybe, I'm thinking of going along on the next Tokyo Twilights evening on 20th Dec weather permitting.

MY nephew had an S2000 for a while and when I drove it I was disappointed. Unless you are continually reving the nuts out of it I found it felt quite gutless.

I recently fitted the DBA front and rear kits, they have great bite even when cold, very quiet no squealing, no dust, and they look great.

Bolt extractors are one of those tools you don't use for years and then for one rounded rusted bolt they are worth every penny. Mine are Minotaur brand. Never heard of the brand before I bought them but have found them unbreakable.

Not necessarily, depends on the fault. If the speed sensors check out I'd probably next do a continuity check between the speed sensor plugs and the ABS module plug to rule out that part of the harness (loose plug, pins, broken wire etc). Then personally I'd move on to testing the yaw rate sensor and the steering angle sensor. JMHO others might have a different approach.

Sounds like the car thinks one wheel is continually slipping. I'd stick a multimeter on the wheel speed sensors, first check they have battery voltage, then disconnect and check resistance across them. If its not the same left to right or resistance is zero, its a fault with the wheel speed sensor / wiring. If its not at battery voltage to begin with its a fault upstream, maybe in the ABS module.

Loose interior trim or rear hatch maybe? If you think its suspension spray WD40 on shocks and rubbers and see if it stops, think you'll have to follow a process of elimination

Is it squeaking or more like a clicking / thunk sound?

Couple of pics Next will be a couple of panel filters and a remap The screw fixing the HFCs to the cross bracket is a bit long, I'll fit something shorter next time the car is in the air

Finished fitting the Invidia and the Torqen HFCs today. One of the demon bolts was an utter &*!*. After several hours of swearing I ended up getting it cherry red with a torch then used an extractor socket. Not fun. The other one came out like a breeze. The invidia fits really nicely, tucks in over the w brace and tight around the v brace. It's now rather noisy.... 🤣

I'd say avoid emptying the system unless you have too, anti lock brake modules can be right cow to bleed if you get an airlock. If I'm taking a hose or a pipe off I prefer to seal the upstream end with a small hydraulic pipe plug, or alternatively wedge the brake pedal down with a piece of wood between the seat and the pedal (the brake valve goes past the open position so fluid doesn't drain) I pressure bleed the system when all the work is done. IF you want to change the fluid you don't need to empty it, just pressure bleed it. Just changed my discs and pads, it's a doddle on the z. Just my two penny worth.

Not that it matters, it's being replaced with an invidia gemini, but does anyone know the purpose of the two round rubber pads on the Y pipe of the stock exhaust? They look like mounts but there was nothing fitted there on my car, and looking through dozens of exhaust fitting videos on YT there isn't on any 370z

Welcome. Where in Devon? And what do you need help with?

Nice

Thanks Dave 👍