nub

When launched I think the 370z was among the top in its class in regards to power I believe, mainly performance value for money. Generally speaking even a stock Z is not a slow car and pulls as well as you'd expect in 6th gear from 3000rpm onwards but as newer cars come out the performance and expectations increase. There are many performance turbo engines that make our low down power/torque feel like it's lacking a little. But that's the nature of this NA engine in particular, it won't make loads of torque from 1500 like a turbo diesel etc but it's no slouch either. Competition just gets tougher and if you think a 370Z is by any means slow, then you're obviously used to driving something quicker and/or newer! Ultimately NA is not as efficient as turbo applications in producing a more usable power band, efficiently and retaining lower emissions etc. Turbos are faster, produce more power and are better in every way but our 3.7ltr V6 has loads of character and sounds great. You could put a 2.5ltr turbo in the 370z, it would make the same power, weigh less, even more low torque and lower emissions, more mpg yet it won't sound nearly as good or be as fun I feel that remapping the 370Z to 350-360bhp with exhaust etc vastly improves things, including performance which might be slightly outdated now that the hot hatches are coming out the factory with 300-350bhp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think my previous post is correct. AD08s are simply better if you need the maximum amount of dry grip. I.e on dry track days or if your car is over 350bhp, 400bhp etc which would be pushing a 370s RWD tyres to the limit in 1st gear, or even 2nd gear in terms of breaking traction. If you want to do 0-100mph launches and fastest cornering, full throttle in 1st and 2nd without spinning in the dry only then AD08s are the best option. For your typical stock powered 350 or 370, the pilots or RE50s have enough grip on the dry to prevent the wheels spinning in 1st (once warm) and 2nd, then as an all rounder they're far better in the wet and last longer. But for dry track performance, AD08 is the winner. Here's another informed opinion on the matter Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much BHP is your Z running, on paper most of those cars would obliterate a stock Z. I mean even the Exige @ 350bhp and 1200kg is so much quicker. Do you think if you maximised the power and remapped it to around 350bhp it would compete a bit better? Mine is 345bhp and I'm hoping to get around 360. Of course those supercars are a class or two above the 370Z, but if you boosted it to 500bhp+ you'd be up there. I haven't read your entire thread but are you running stock brake setup? I don't think a stock 370Z is a fast car at all considering they don't even make their claimed BHP and they're heavy and I think in 2017 you need to really maximise the power in order to compete. 350-360bhp is reasonably fast and the car would then have great performance value for money. The car looks great too, I want my wheels flat black. ðŸ‘🻠Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Btw my 370z is 345bhp, I've yet to try a 1st gear launch but the RE50s on the back Grip fine in 2nd. Obviously the cold weather means tyres can't get up to temp easily, even if it is dry Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both RE50s and MPSS are great all rounders but I think if you want maximum traction in the dry then Yoko AD08s are semi slicks, I had them on my 340bhp Supercharged FWD Type R, in the dry and as long as it's not below 12c or so they should provide way more traction than even RE50s and the pilot sports. However, as an all rounder they won't be so good, softer compound and not fantastic in the wet. But I never drive the car fast when it's raining, the AD08s would enable you to get full traction foot to the floor in 1st if imagine but it depends how much power you're running. Anywhere near 400bhp and I'd go for AD08s for sure, or you even could spin up in 2nd Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's the best way to invest around 30k down south if I already have a mortgage and don't want to use it to pay off the interest etc. Would love to buy to let a 1 bedroom flat or something but being that I've already got a mortgage, on paper it's unaffordable so I might give the money to my bro to do the same. Any other ideas what to do with 30k? How much would one need to begin low end property development? I.e like on homes under the hammer. I could raise more deposit but selling the Z is not an option of course and I'll buy mods each year Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even my setup which has one of the more expensive and less restrictive cat backs, but a HFC as opposed to a decat; it pops and bangs and burbles all the time without even trying. Downshifting it'll do it every single time. But I doubt I could capture it well on my iPhone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These vids are more the sound I'm after. The ART decat and either motordyne shockwave (louder) or ARK Grip (quieter). Both have Helmholtz resonators, and the decat pipe too so it cancels out certain undesirable frequencies and emits a nice higher pitch V6 tone which you can't achieve with regular systems. Those are the options/combos I have to choose from. So far I'm thinking the quieter ARK, both have titanium burned tips but ARK doesn't have rolled tips. Ive tried to enter the timestamp on the URL but it doesn't seem to work on tapatalk anyway https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=TPySWDgnT5o&t=3m57s https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&t=0m13s&v=EduzmWc6EOI Both motordyne decat and cat back drive by Here a 40mph pull in my car now with fast intentions resonated HFC and 12" resonator. It sounds rather tame but it is actually quite loud. And I'm lacking any induction at all. Who can tell me if the Z1 motorsport and stillen CAI make a good induction noise before I search YouTube? On the type Rs some of the induction kits are louder than average exhaust so I'm intrigued to hear what they sound like on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't wait to start modding the **** out of this there's nothing good 2nd hand anywhere on forums or EBay ðŸ˜. Exhaust would be first ideally but whatever comes up really. Do the CAI stillen and Z1 style intakes make any good induction note? Also I can't remember if I mentioned already but the car seems to be a bit faster with Tesco 99 momentum. I know it's hard to really tell but it seems to pull harder in 3rd and 4th. Perhaps the uprev map was mapped with 99 hence why 97 was feeling slower. Does anyone know if Abbey would turn off the cat sensor as standard on a map? Like I've got an uprev map with FI HFC but will the EML come on with an ART test pipe ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@*!# car mate looks horrible. I'm not jealous honestly 😉 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In good used condition. Worth a try anyway! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you do any good price on a motordyne ART Decat pipe ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm satisfied with the stock suspension right now and I've already got decent tyres 😀ðŸ‘🻠Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I'm thinking motordyne shockwave plus the ART decat will be a loud combo. But a good loud is acceptable. I think straight through silencers must surely be more effective at reducing decibels than the Helmholtz ones. But that's just a guess. I've also heard videos with the shockwave cat back alone and stock cats and that sounds great but then I'm aiming for the maximum gains with ECUtek map as the other dude did on here claims he made 333whp...yet Abbey say he actually made more like 355bhp which is a decent figure nonetheless. I will sell my fast intentions CBE and resonated HFCs, I think they cost a lot to import here so assuming they're in good condition I hope to sell them for at least £400 and £800 respectfully then I'll buy some cheap eBay HFCs for around £200 and they will only be fitted for MOT time. Rest of the year I'll be using the ART decats FTW! It's just a case of waiting for a used motordyne shockwave to appear somewhere, anywhere! I'm also rather fond of the Z1 motorsport CAI as opposed to the stillen. Although nearly identical the Z1 has more silicone near the front which is much better at resisting engine heatsoak than the metal alloy which the stillen is entirely made from! It's a shame they didn't design it all from silicone I just don't get it! Z1 has a velocity stack too. I doubt there's much between them anyways, is the 370z headers near the front of the front of the bay where the silicone part is ? Also I know it's Xmas but I just don't find any used modifications for sale anywhere. Not here, EBay, gumtree. It's very sad 😩 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine is the 12" resonated version and it does sound good but it's one of the louder CBEs. due to having the resonated HFC also it's a bit louder than I want. There's 3 options and mine is the middle one, I'd rather it was 18" resonated. It would be perfect for those retaining OEM cat. Also from looking a pics, I would guess from the size of the resonator that the FI HFCs are one of the quietest available. I would just rather try the motordyne setup with the Helmholtz resonators, but I expect these may also be quite loud. I know purpose of them but I'm not sure how well they function in actually reducing the volume. The Ark Grip has both the Helmholtz resonator and andI straight through silencer but as a result it hangs pretty low. It'll be somewhat trial and error but looking at videos it's the combo I want because it just sounds the best by far and filters the crap part of the frequency leaving the v6 note. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any remapped vtec Honda or s2000 will lose the vtec kick and have 100% smooth power curve. The vtec kick is because there a dip/loss in power before higher can engages. If the roads are even slightly damp then don't expect to get full traction in 2nd. Also summer tyres need to be above a certain temp to perform properly. I've had a 370z around a week, uprev remap to 345 or so and it feels like I have a torque surge at 4000rpm to, but I may be wrong. You're tyres are good and I drove today in the dry (yet cold) and was able to get full traction in 2nd, in the summer with some AD08s I reckon I might be able to launch in 1st without too much spin but I'm not sure. To summarise, don't floor it in the wet. You may be able to floor it in 3rd with wet roads on stock power, but I'd feel more confident on 4th if have to overtake etc. I don't really understaffed my torque map, it's not smooth like my old Supercharged FN2. One day I will remap with. ECUtek and get some more power. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Despite a few people telling to avoid supermarket fuels. I've done some research and many have good things to say about it. I may eventually get an ECUtek map for 97 but for now my choice is either super unleaded (97) or Tesco momentum (99) unless anyone could provide me with some conclusive evidence that momentum is bad in some way then that's what I'll use. 99 must surely be better and add some power over the 97. I know the additives are different but I can't believe Tesco would make a high octane fuel with @*!# additives - it's obviously aimed at performance cars and it seems to be good value too An another question, is it worth upgrading the Y pipe? Or is the Y like part of the cat back itself ? In not sure where the Y pipe gues exactly, is if before the cats? If anyone sees s motordyne shockwave catback for sale or ART decat pipes or wants to swap for my fast intentions resonated cat back with carbon silencers and resonated HFCs then please let me know! I can't see much for sale 2nd hand anywhere and I don't want to pay new prices just yet. I'd also love a 2015 Nismo rear bumper but that could wait Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've no idea if mine has any LSD, 2011 GT edition 370. The standard mechanical LSD on my FN2 was great, it would pull you around roundabouts. However since supercharging it I couldn't go full throttle around corners and it wouldn't activate so much. Anyway, does anyone know if mine has LSD? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really want my wheels black, I know they're forged Rays but are they particularly light? They don't look light and I'm sure they're not as light as other aftermarket wheels. I'll get spacers on too and the plan is to get the 2015 Nismo rear bumper on, and the front but it's considerably more expensive due to the DRLs. Knowing I could put the Nismo bumper on is the main reason I decided to buy the car Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone here use 97 Ron? I'm trying to research whether Tesco momentum (99 octane) is good and if the supermarket fuel being @*!# thing is a myth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On the subject of fuels, is it just a myth that supermarket fuels should be avoided? The only option in my town is Tesco momentum which is 99 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Damn this forum is not very active lol. Does anyone know what harm could be done putting in 97 RON as opposed to 98? There's very few petrol stations in my town that have 98, in fact I think Tesco momentum is 99 RON? And that's the fuel I'll be going for, it's only a short detour and kind of on the way to work. But is putting in 97 instead of 98 gonna cause any major issues ? Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why didn't they make them from silicone. The best type R intake is made nearly entirely from silicone! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KyleR, no. The wheel figure is not what we look at. He said it made 309bhp,so that's nearly 20bhp lower than claimed stock, depending on how accurate that dyno is. But I'd be surprised if the dyno itself is responsible for that much decline. If that's had a remap then its even worse. Then we have this one which is again, around 17bhp lower than claimed. I don't have experience with these dynos, the most accurate rollers IMO are tdi north, and they map our cars too. My supercharged type R made 341 BHP there, I might ask him (Paul West) what figures he tends to get. But he maps mostly Hondas.

What do you mean it doesn't make claimed power? This isn't something i've heard before, although I don't frequent the '70 section too often, but the '50 was claimed for being one of the few cars that actually meet or exceed the claimed bhp. Also, your Type R was faster because it weighed quite a bit less, plus oodles of torque from the S/C I've only been on here a short while but it quickly became evident that the 370z, and maybe 350s don't make their claimed power from stock. And I don't mean just 2-3 BHP but in excess of 10bhp. All the tuners will tell you the same and it just means the car isn't as powerful as it should be. My supercharged FN2 is faster mainly because it's over 150kg-200kg lighter but also the shorter gearing means at the same speed my Type R was at around 1000rpm higher and thus making more power. Throttle response and gear changing was also superior, it climbs through the RPMs to the 8600 redline faster than the 370z. However, even with the supercharger my type R makes less peak torque and less lower down than a stock 370z. Even considering my 370z has Fast intentions CBE and HFC Abbey uprev remapped to 340-345 bhp, the charges civic was still faster. At 4000rpm or so, I can tell the 370z has more torque and is pulling harder, but because of the above factors, it is still slower than my civic throughout the revs driving hard as the civic dyno was so linear and free revving. That said I totally enjoy the 370z overall it's a far superior car except for the performance and it still pulls very well comparitively speaking. I am so glad I bought mine already mapped with extra performance or I think I'd have been very disappointed with a stock car. it simply would have been so much slower than my civic which at 340bhp, on paper should only be 12 bhp quicker than a stock 370Z (plus heavier and the other factors mentioned). The BHP/tonne would have been far less and I would have been very disappointed. To others not coming from quicker cars they may not have noticed and might have been more than satisfied with the power, even being significantly less than the claimed. Its not the only car to make less than claimed out of the factory, the old Focus RS were well known to be sometimes 30bhp down on power! The Honda S2000 was another, yet the type RS often make 10-15bhp more than claimed. Personally I think manufacturers making sports cars that are undeniably making significantly less than claimed, should be held accountable if the margin is too great. With competition so tight these days we do make our decisions based on performance, 0-60 and BHP etc so it's not fair that we should be misled. Within reason of course, I don't think 5bhp is s big deal or should do of course know that all dynos are different, yet the claims I've been making are well known, backed up by hundreds of owners and tuners. Usually the community knows which dynos tend to over read or under read, it's not just guesswork. It's a fact that certain cars do not make near their claimed power. Moving on, to the the guy saying it feels slow at 50mph in 6th, I do somewhat agree with you, and as said my Z is remapped to 340-345bhp with CBE & HFC installed by the previous owner. This combo is s bit loud for me and I get another remap with the exhaust parts I want, and a Stillen G3 I hope to gain 15-20bhp more with an ECUtek remap and this will improve midrange even further. I used to have an NA type R, 2.0ltr 245bhp. Compared to this, the 3.7 V6 makes loads of low down torque. But some modern diesels on the road & motorway are making more torque than us from as low as 1500rpm, even if they are ultimately slower than us. In the situation you described we could easily be out accelerated if we choose not to down shift. So I think if you want the car to be quicker then you need to change your driving style a bit. In my old NA type R you had to keep it in the powerband all the time to get anyway, this means over 5k rpm, and even then it wasn't great. So I would suggest if you're in 6th at 50mph, I personally think this is just about ok if you're not in a rush, but if you went to 40mph in 6th then you're labouring the engine. If you wanted to accelerate faster from 50mph then I'd suggest down shifting to 5th to get a bit more power, of even 4th to bring the revs even higher. Drop to 3rd and you're really going to shift, and this is a bit OTT if you're just trying to cruise and not race anyone but you see my point. The car still makes more power at higher rpm so unless you're trying to drive at maximum mpg returns it might be worth down shifting, which I find very smooth and entertaining with synchro rev! For me there's nothing more fun than going from 6th to 3rd and accelerating up to 100mph or so. That does not match the pace of my type R but I'm hoping after some more upgrades and the ECUtek remap it will. In this weather 1st gear launches are not going to work unless it's absolutely dry and you can get heat on the tyres. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk