Strudul

BGM for added dramatic effect Question is, how come GM hasn't moved this into the spotted / flyered section yet?

What about Police Z instead?

For now I think I'd like to try just respraying the damaged areas. I know it's hard to match silver, but paints4u do a full repair kit which is highly rated. Even if it's not perfect it can't look any worse than it does currently. I know sod all about painting, but is there anything I can coat the rest of my bumper in to protect it and prevent this problem reoccurring if I try dip it again (I still want to do the middle part below the grill)? I'm assuming the dip has reacted with the lacquer, so could I just spray a few coats of quality lacquer over the entire bumper?

So how about repainting the front bumper black and going for the JDM AF AE86 look? Or with the skits as well..

Saw this years ago, apparently it was crazy expensive and heavy, so was never introduced publicly

AFAIK, it's fine to test the fronts on rollers, but not the rears (due to the LSD).

Dan-Chan...

I dunno, I can get my Z sideways at <20mph without even trying...

Or Danielle...

Price and reviews. PlastiDip is $6 per can in the US. The low price is partly why it's so popular. However, because they don't sell it directly over here, it costs ~£15 (presumably to cover import and shipping costs). The Rust-Oleum stuff is much cheaper (£8) since it is sold as a UK product (not because it's lower quality, it's just sold internationally and priced accordingly - I think it's actually a more expensive alternative to PlastiDip in the US). From reading reviews it was also quite highly rated when compared to PlastiDip. Apparently it sprays thinner, making it easier to get a decent finish and remove. The only negative I saw was the nozzle has radial spray pattern rather than a fan.

Was planning to use this stuff on my wheels too, but now I'm scared it's just gonna destroy them. I was only doing emblems as practice...

- Removing parts was a lot of extra effort that I didn't think would be required (and it wasn't for my handles and side + rear emblems). - Masking off an emblem sounds too difficult due to the size and shape. - Probably cheaper to just buy a new front bumper if I can find one in the right colour. They seem to sell for £70-£100, which is probably half the price of a pro repaint. Alternatively I might just try repairing the damaged parts, at least as a temporary solution, might not be perfect, but will be a lot cheaper and I can hardly make it look any worse. - Not sure what I'm supposed to do about the lip under the front grill now though. I had intended to spray that too, but I can't mask the paintwork off there since the paintwork is precisely what i'm trying to spray...

Any phone with bluetooth should work. However, it's only for handsfree calls, you can't stream music etc.

The very first line* of the OP says: *Depending on screen resolution

Considering how perfect my side emblems turned out, i'm finding it hard to accept that it was caused by me not following the instructions properly. I didn't do anything different...

Painting Conditions: Use outdoors or in a well-ventilated area such as an open garage. Use when temperature is between 50°-90°F (10°C - 32°C) and humidity is below 65% to ensure proper drying. Do not apply to galvanized metal. Avoid spraying in very windy, dusty conditions. Cover surrounding area to protect from spray mist. Preparation: Thoroughly wash surface with soap and water prior to application. Let dry. Priming is not required or recommended. Painting: Shake can vigorously for one minute after mixing ball begins to rattle. If mixing ball fails to rattle DO NOT STRIKE. Contact Rust-Oleum. Shake often during use. Keep the can 8-12†from surface and spray in a steady back-and-forth motion, slightly overlapping each stroke. Apply 4 or more light coats to build desired coating thickness, followed by 1 or more medium coat(s) to achieve a smooth final film. Note: Target 50% coverage on first coat. Allow coating to dry for about 5 minutes between coats. More coats will result in a thicker coating which is easier to remove when desired. Allow coating to cure for 24 hours prior to washing. Dry & Recoat Times based on 70°F (20°C) and 50% relative humidity. Allow more time at cooler temperatures. Dries to the touch in 20 minutes, to handle in 1 hour. Removal: You can peel film off once the coating has fully cured. This coating has been formulated for temporary use and is recommended to be removed within 6 months or less. A microfiber cloth or mineral spirits may assist in the removal of coating in intricate areas.

Shook the can vigorously for 1 minute as per the instructions... I followed all the instructions to a T.

Pretty much the same stuff AFAIK. Here's someone doing it on a Cayman with the Rust-Oleum stuff and the same technique... Thats Rust-Oleum FlexiDip . . you used Peel Coat . . two separate products!!! Same stuff, they just re-branded it, with Peel Coat being the new version.

I can get it off without too much issue using WD40 etc, but it's already done the damage and it brings the paint with it.

Pretty much the same stuff AFAIK. Here's someone doing it on a Cayman with the Rust-Oleum stuff and the same technique... Well yeah, but they were doing racing stripes, not emblems... More importantly, they were spraying on the paintwork, which is exactly what I did... Had it for 5 months. I wash it, but the guides specifically say to prep the area by removing any wax from the area. Yes, it says to mask parts off, but that is just to make it easier to remove / clean. It is designed to be used on paintwork, not just emblems and plastic trim. As such, there shouldn't have been a problem with it getting on my paint. In theory (apart from giving a shoddy finish) it should be perfectly suitable for spraying my entire front bumper, but instead it has just melted it...

Well I was going to remove stuff first, but literally the entire internet says to dip emblems while on your car and just peel off the excess after... Source: Every video on dipping emblems ever.

If it wasn't cleaned properly it wouldn't have bonded at all (according to the guides on prep). Instead it has magically gone through any dirt / grease / wax / protection and stuck to the paint, and stuck better than the paint stuck to the primer...

I did test it, just not on my front bumper. It's fine on the door handles and other emblems (+ surrounding areas of paintwork).

It's how most people recommend to do it...