mr v6

I was asked by John M if I'd do a full machine polish on his Aegean V6. I'd have been stupid to say no , so I said yes! Left home this morning with a tiny amount of fog, shorts & shirt on, as us northern monkies do in this weather, boot full of cleaning stuff & headed off to his house. Got there about 10.40am & made a start. There were a few things I'd noticed, which you'll see in the following photos. Compared to the rest of the bodywork, the bonnet appeared to have a slightly different texture / shine on it, was only slightly noticable when you really looked. Also on the passenger side of the roof, about 1/8" of the inch in from the pillar, going from front to back about 2" in width was a dull line, as if something had been stuck on there, or fitted to the roof at some point. We couldn't get rid of it at all, so had no choice but to leave it. The line was perfectly straight, we were stumped, but it could only be seen from the passenger side front looking along it.. Very strange. Stuff used: Kestrel DAS6 dual action polisher Bilberry wheel cleaner Various small brushes Sonus fine green clay Autosmart Reglaze as clay lube Meguiars 6" polishing pad Sonus 4" polishing pad Autosmart Evo 1 polish Meguiars #83 polish Meguiars #16 PPW Poorboys wheel sealant Meguiars metal polish Autosol Microfibre cloths I asked John if he could have the coupe washed by the time I got there, which he did, so I went straight to work on the wheels. These needed a quick clean, nothing more, they were sealed at the very end of the day with 2 layers of Poorboys wheel sealant. After that I clayed the car with Sonus fine green clay & Reglaze as lube. Very little came off to be fair :good: . The whole car was then polished with the DAS6 & the 2 polishing pads, alternating between Megs #83 & Autosmart Evo 1, depending on how bad the surface was. Finished off with 2 layers of Meguiars #16 PPW 8) :wink: . This wax can be tricky to work with, applied just a little too thick & you've created yourself a bit of hard work removing it, thin thin thin is the way with this wax. It leaves such a deep, glossy, crisp finish, which for a £16 wax that's apparently been discontinued by Meguiars (just, why???), beats a lot of much more expensive waxes hands down. The bodywork other than swirls was pretty good, the bootlid will need to be painted, it looks worse in real life as there's other scratch damage going through the paint: Bonnet before: Roof before: Rear quarter after just a machine polish: Roof after a machine polish 8) : Side after machining: C pillar: Reflections: Spot the roof defect: A little closer :? : All finished with 2 layers of Meguiars #16 PPW :Yahoo!: : No, my coupe isn't hitched up to the caravan! The car looked stunning as I left, such a super crisp, sharp finish from the polish & wax combo. I spent around 5.5 - 6 hours in total, this included lunch break. Nothing was rushed, the job was done correctly, I'm over the moon with the final result. If you could see the car in the flesh it looks so much better, the photos really don't do it justice. What I did notice, apart from the metallic flake popping everywhere , was at certain angles this paint seems to have a slight purple tinge to it, looks very smart indeed! When you see photos like this with a coupe in, you realise just how awesome the angles, curves & overall design of the car really is! All the high-res photos are here if anyone wants them: http://www.mrv6.co.uk/detailing/johnm/ Thanks for reading :beer: .

This is one I did earlier this year for my sisters fella. He traded his EVO 8 in for this car, something more practical. I do a bit of detailing, repairs, servicing & the odd auto electrical jobs in my spare time as a hobby, I like to mix them up a bit . Today I had a full machine polish to do on a 2008 Jaguar XF in Ultimate black Metallic. The owner bought the car last October & this job has been on the cards ever since. It would seem it's spent a lot of it's life up & down the motorways judging by the amount of stone chips on the bonnet, but I wasn't there to sort those out. The front bumper had a 'blow over' a while ago to hide a lot of the chips, but the finish wasn't great. Down the sides are the obvious hand car wash markings & scuffs where it's been pushed upto the bushes down some country lanes. The paint wasn't in overall bad condition, it was reasonable. I spent a few hours on it yesterday washing it, de-tarring the lower half of the car, claying it & giving the 20" wheels a good clean. The aim of today wasn't to achieve full correction, but to give the car a significantly good polish, that's what it got . Products used: Washmitt Chemical Guys Mr. Pink Bulk de-tar remover from work (same as Tardis) Sonus green clay Autosmart Reglaze 3M blue tape Kestrel DAS 6 polisher Meguiars 6" pads Sonus 4" spot pad MF cloths Carpro Iron X Poorboys Wheel Sealant Carpro PERL Autosol Mothers Mag & Aluminium polish Autosmart Evo 1 Prima Amigo FK 1000P Poorboys Natural Look Gliptone twins GT1 & GT2... I think that's everything This was the general condition of every panel on the car, depending on where the sun shone depends how bad it looked: I was up against 2 huge trees that wouldn't stop releasing pollen, every time I turned away there were particles all over the car, it was tedious trying to keep up with it all. After the huge bonnet was finished this was what I was left with.. It seemed a huge panel to get round, it was : Not perfect, but in comparison to what I started with it seemed like it was: More damage around the rear, but the whole car was like this: Managed to bring out the metallic flake so much during the polishing process. Lots of greens reds & purples really popped in the sun: Those 20" alloys were awkward to do, & seemed to take a while, but looked great once all the crap was off them: This is the side of the car completed, finished off with 2 coats of FK 1000P & a layer of Prima Amigo because I had time :good: : Thanks for reading :beer: .

I've had mine in my possession for a month now. I put about £40 a week in, mixed motorway & A & B roads & after 6 days still have about 1/4 tank & average around 27mpg. I don't drive like a tool mostly, but do like to put my foot down occasionally. What comments I do get thrown my way a lot is (previous car was a Pug 406 Coupe 3.0 V6) "I bet that drinks juice" & all those kind of comments. My reply is, "I didn't buy it for fuel economy, if that was an issue I'd buy a boring Germanic 2.0tdi 140bhp VAG lump with no kerb appeal" .

Welcome from one noob to another. Good to see a fellow northerner too, not quite as oop north though .

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/158-how-to-window-reset-procedure/

The water isn't collating on the spoiler though, it seems to be running from the vertical seals on the underside of the rear screen.

I didn't have any issues last week on mine & it's th first Z I've done the belts on. You only need to loosen the 14mm nut on the idler enough for it to be adjusted. Is the thread on your adjuster screw corroded with rust which maybe causing an issue?

Is this normal? It last rained here in Manchester yesterday, just an hour ago I opened the boot & water ran out of what seemed to be a channel behind the outer rear window seal on the inner side of the boot lid skin, causing the water to run out & over the rear 1/4 panel. If that makes sense?

Got mine from Clark Motorsport on here, but plenty of other places sell it for around the £180 mark. CMS sent mine next day & were awesome to deal with .

I managed to pick up a drivers side one off ebay on Sunday, used of course. It came today & is a genuine Nissan part, fully working, for £65 you can't complain. Will sort the other side out soon.

Really? It's a 10" screen & I can't see that fitting inside my cubby hole, it certainly isn't anywhere near 10". In fact after measuring it mine has an internal size of 6x3" roughly.

Cheers Headphones . Went out an hour ago to fire it up (and annoy the neighbours ) and it's still tick free. All I'm saying is don't jump to conclusions & buy the first part you think you need because you read something on the internet. In my case it was a 5 minute fix.

As I don't want to go out & spend money on a double din head unit with aux inputs, I'd like to add a reverse camera to my Z. I've seen plenty of rear view cameras built into one of the rear reg plate lights, but would prefer to use a dedicated screen I can fit inside the cubby hole. I'm no stranger to a bit of DIY mechanics, ICE or wiring, so don't mind a 'bit' of a challenge. Is this something that anyone has done? It's probably a northern thing wanting to save a few quid though .

Since I've had the Z it's always ticked from cold, but fine when totally warmed up. Fuel damper I can hear you all screaming whilst rolling your eyes . I continued to do the oil change anyway as looking at the partially rusty filter the garage obviously didn't do the job when I asked them before picking it up, then when finished ran the engine & the ticking started as usual. Not totally convinced the fuel damper was my issue I started to feel around. It sounded more like a loud injector pulsing. Starting at cylinder number 1 I pushed down on the top of the coil & silence.. I checked the 10mm coil bolt was tight, it was, I was then sure it was a loose spark plug. Coil off & I must have got around 3/4 turn on the plug. Coil back on & fired her up, silence, no more tapping. I went round & checked all the other coils for any difference in sound & thankfully there isn't. Maybe a little heads up for those who aren't completely familiar with the Z engine & would rather poke around first before instantly jumping to the first thing you read .

Hi & welcome! My dilemma was between the S2k & the Z.. Common sense told me the Z, I didn't want to drive everywhere at 8000rpm doing 40mph to overtake someone because 'VTEC yo' . I spend a bit of time in Leeds & pass through Bratford to get there, always on the lookout!

I knew my belts were well past their best when I got the Z. I asked the place to change them, upon collection said they had. What they actually did was just order one belt & leave it in the boot for me . As I had the belts it's a job I've been meaning to do, so armed only with a 12mm ratchet spanner & a 14mm 3/4" socket with extendable ratchet I set about the job. I did it from above & took probably just under half hour. I know I'd have spent longer than that on my back on the ground fighting with rusty bolts & getting crap in my face. Old belts: New belt from the garage is a Continental, the other one I bought is a Gates. I've been out for a quick run & all seems fine, I'll check it tomorrow once the car has cooled overnight & double check the tension.

So are they £69 or £79? Mine is 2005, are these the correct ones for my bumper? I only ask as my Z is due to visit the bodyshop soon, these will be handed to them to fit whilst the front bumper is off..

This.. I took my Z round to my mechanic today with a replacement bush. He was knocking on 10 mins later saying he'll need to drop part of the rear subframe & to have a look with him. I agreed & left him to it. An hour or so later the Z was back & the fee was £35 for the job & I supplied the part. No more knocking. Oddly the previous owner had replaced the o/s arm with a new one, but I'm northern...

I knew this was coming . Why do you people goad me into buying more bling for my Z? :lol: My problem is, when I try to undo them with a socket I can feel the resistance, so back it off in the hope it loosens up. Next, it breaks the tab it's sat in on the bumper, that leaves it with nothing for it to bolt to. So I have an undertray that would normally bolt to the holes on the front bumper, but those are now split due to rust. On another note, I still have the factory front lip.

Thanks Andymac, Would I be right in saying I retain all of the OEM speakers? If so, aren't I double amplifying the signal? Once from the BOSE amp & again from the head unit?

Thanks to a pheasant, that decided the dart out from a bush today, has caused a good 6" crack on the front bumper & caused quite a bit of crazing in the paint. I'll want the bumper, bonnet, front wings & roof doing. I'm looking for a recommended paint shop around the Manchester / Warrington / Cheshire area.

Spotted a blue roadster in the Car Hoods workshop this afternoon, I'm guessing it was having work done on the roof.

I've been using Autosmart Reglaze for years, although now replaced by a newer product. 1L bottle, use 25ml of product to roughly 1L of water, meaning you can get 40L of QD for around £12.

All I want to do is a simple oil change. It seems these 10mm bolts in those silly clips are halting me. Just tonight I've loosened a few, but one decided to spin & break the housing it was in. This us now stopping keeping the front lip up, good job I have cable ties. Not only do I want to do the oil change, at the same time I want to replace both of the drive belts. Am I missing an obvious trick anywhere?

Thanks everyone. As well as mechanics, this is what I also do in my spare time. I've done a number of Pug 406 Coupes (given I'm Club Secretary on the forum), I've also done the odd Audi, a huuuuge Jag XF that belongs to my sisters fella, amongst others. I like to see an improvement on things. This was just a quick job. To the untrained eye it'll look awesome. To the trained eye it's a quickie. Upon closer inspection of my wheels, it's clear at some point recently they were refurbed on the cheap. You can seen sloppy paint on the weights & new paint on the old foam from previous weights. I had 2 plans.. Plan A was to have my Touring (I believe they're called) alloys powder coated in a gunmetal or anthracite finish, or buy a used set of Rays & do the same with those & have my tyres put on them.