mr v6

Thanks everyone, least it's not been cobbled together, it certainly doesn't look like it has been. It looks like the front end of the ARK system the previous owner had fitted, although mine certainly isn't as shiny as this one: http://www.arkperformance.com/ARK-GRiP-Nissan-350Z-03-08-p/sm0900-0030g.htm

Thanks. In my first post I did mention the Y pipe. Sorry to confuse matters, but that's what I'm referring to. I see 2 cans on my car but not on genuine used systems on eBay. That's why I thought perhaps mine were aftermarket.

Cheers for that. Here's a system on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350z-Factory-Standard-Original-Exhaust-Y-Pipe-and-Cats-/232191771846?hash=item360fb544c6:g:hqYAAOSwjDZYZ9gq The 2 cans just in front of the W brace have a heat shield on the ebay one, I thought I may have had something different added.

I've just been looking at some Youtube vids & snooping around on ebay & found plenty of what look like the standard rusty looking Y pipe. I've just been looking through some pics of my system on the phone & mine seems to look a bit different. I'm assuming these aren't standard & may well be aftermarket / high flow cats? I've not managed to get under it for a while so wouldn't be able to tell you if they have any branding on them. Fitment & everything seems spot on with them. Ideas please: http://www.mrv6.co.u...24_arkgrip2.jpg

I did an oil change on the Z on 9/10/16 & have covered about 2000 miles since. I filled up the oil till it was bang on the max mark on the dipstick. I did to my dipstick prior to this & I have to say for me it's made reading the oil level so much easier. But I don't seem to be experiencing any high oil consumption. I'm not complaining at all, it was just everything I was reading lead you to believe you needed to top up in silly amounts very often. Is this down to the characteristic of each engine & depending on how well it's been looked after?

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/113045-video-ginger-350z-salford-ov54xxx-testing-its-suspension/ I had this bloke pass me in traffic last night, lots of traffic & he was travelling at a rate for about 100yards till we hit the lights. I turned right & as I pulled along side him gave him a couple of toots on the horn, we saw eachother & all I got was a scowling look . It was definitely the same guy as in the above video as it was the same junction, only going the other way.

I also fitted the 648 & 1173 belt & all is fine. Have you checked that the proper part numbers are also printed on the belts, not just the cardboard sleeve they come in?

Just to keep this topic updated in case anyone else starts having a similar issue. I had the charging system tested today whilst I had more time, loading the battery up with the car running etc. All was fine if a little low on power. The tech at work looked & said it could be draining a little power with it not being fully seated. I got home & noticed the battery was free to move around a lot, the front bar & top strap were there but the small J hook for the rear was missing, hence it moving around. I removed the battery & tray & the rear fitting was just lying there. Once it was all back in secured properly I went at the terminals with some emery paper, connected up the negative & snugged it down, then the positive. I used a large socket & gently tapped it down to it's fully seated position & tightened it up snug. It doesn't seem to be moving now so only time will tell I guess.

I understand what you're saying, but for nothing to operate once the ignition is switched back is very weird, so if that was an issue I should still get all other things working. Only a wiggle of the wiring got it all working. I cleaned up the terminals earlier & they weren't too bad. The positive terminal wasn't fully seated at the base of the battery & was moving upwards as I was tightening it. The battery has obviously been changed because the retaining strap over the top & bar that goes down to the base were all very loose. I initially suspected it may have been the wrong battery with wrong posts?

This happened again this morning, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Ignition on, gauge reading 12v & pump priming, went to crank & heard a couple of clicks from the engine bay then all the instrument panel / dash lights went out. I turned the ignition off, then back on & no lights at all, not even the courtesy lights on the roof, no pump priming either. Check the battery posts with a multimeter & it was reading 12.38v from being stood for 13 hours overnight, I left the drivers door open. I wiggled the positive battery connection a little & heard a series of clicks & the lights came on. It was just cranking for a moment till I tried it again then it started right up. I've not had chance to look at it as I needed to get to work, so I'm hoping (fingers crossed) it's just a dirty terminal & needs tightening.

Mine has the Nissan kit installed as I found out the other week. Isn't there markings on the inside of the bumper showing where you drill so it's all aligned correctly? All these kits are the same so I can't see how they differ from kit to kit.

At work we have a bunch of guys who go around the north of England cutting & coding keys at our dealerships. Our local guy couldn't get his eqpt to talk to my Z last month & asked if I could take a photo of my BCM he could use his other software to decode it & get the Pin code to program a new key. I've just dug out my second key, not a remote one, it has no buttons but does start the car. On the keyring is a small metal tag with a 5 digit number starting with a 0 (zero), along with 4 other numbers after it. Is this likely to be my Pin code or keycode?? Ideally I want a second remote key which I can get at cost price.

I'm going to hold off on replacing the starter for now as I've read it could be the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal. Odd thing just happened I'd like a bit of help on though, just been out to the shops, started fine, but noticed on the way back the digital time clock was showing 2.49, whereas when I went out it was showing 7.30, also the range in which the REV light flashes had reset to 6600rpm. This also happened on Saturday morning when it didn't fire up straight away. Any ideas ?

Never seen a ginger Z around there despite working very close to there.

Thanks both, I tested the battery in work with a Midtronics EXP-800 & it tested fine with 580CCA. Gauge shows bang on 12v with ignition on. The auto electrical place near work quoted £70 to refurb the unit if I drop it off & would be a 3 hour turn around. I'll check the starter connections today if I get chance. Battery terminals are fine & crud free .

This happened on Wednesday but disregarded it till it happened again today. Clutch pedal to the floor & key in the cranking position, I heard a series of clicks from the engine bay. Keeping the key in the crank position it then fired up. Is there any known issues or can this be put down to a sticky starter motor?

Useless garage who replaced mine decided to ignore the files I sent them & spent a day just pressing the pedal. In the end they depressed the slave rod & clamped it in place, then bled it, let it push out & close the nipple & repeat & they did it pretty quickly. Glad it wasn't me doing it.

Vac hose leaking somewhere?

Nice . What cap cover kit did you use for the screw on tops? Also the hose kit?

I've kept a regular check on fluid levels with the Z since getting her in September, but this morning the minimum coolant level was just below the minimum level mark after being stood overnight in icy temperatures. I topped it off with water after checking it's level with one of the many floating disc type testers (Sealey). I did notice an outlet on the top of the tank pointing towards the drivers side, I take it this is the vent? As with any hot liquid you're going to lose some from natural evaporation, I don't have any apparent leaks.

I used a Blueprint filter (£2.50 from work) & this exact oil about 6 weeks ago. Z runs fine on it. Smooth & quiet from startup, dipstick is always a light golden colour. I paid around £16 incl delivery with a code from the internet . Oil is a minefield, there's loads out there from this, to Motul at £40+.

Last night heading towards Urmston around 5.30pm, didn't get the colour or reg as it was dark. Instances like this I usually tap the brake lights a few times, didn't get a response though .

Hi everyone, All has been fine with Z, tonight I had just left work & as always, I lock the doors (dodgy areas of Manchester & all that ). Took the usual route home, sat at the usual sets of lights & heard the C/L clunk. I thought initially I'd knocked the button on the door, but you'd need to be a spaz to do that given where it is. Anyway I locked it & set off, next set of lights clunk, it did it again. Once I'd got past the Tesco & 2 hotels I locked it & all was fine, and it seems to have been fine since. Could this be an interference of some sort from cameras / some sorts of radio waves from the hotels etc?? I'm confused, Jap cars aren't known for their electrical issues are they.

I've seen a few of these that are a transparent coloured perspex that look good.

What brand of belts did you fit? I replaced the longer one with a Gates & the shorter with a Conti one. Double check your tension too as that will cause some squeal, unless they're the wrong length?