andy10v

Yes cam timing would be tuned to take advantage of the mods. You can read the Osiris user manual http://uprev.com/UpdateFiles/software/Osiris%20User%20Guide.pdf and UpRev Nissan tuning guide http://uprev.com/UpdateFiles/software/UpRev%20Nissan%20Tuning%20Guide.pdf If you want to have some info on uprev.

The MAF signal is 0-5v, gm/s could be calculated from that if you knew the offset, it will be non linear. A couple of bits of info from other forums Would you want to tune the engine through uprev or learn to map the ecu yourself?

Sorry I meant the original standard cats if you were selling them, just for MOT.

If you get a new set of cats I could be interested in your old cats. If you want to sell them?

A couple of DIYs http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/442835-drift-spin-e-brake-button-diy.html http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/175-interior-exterior/57742-drift-knob-installation.html

Yeah a couple of the 350s I looked at up here had a good dose of lurgy bubbling under the paintwork, PITA when the seller says no rust on the phone. Nissan dont seem that great at corrosion resistance, so I would forsee lots of rusty 350s in the future, also as they are "cheap" lots of cheap hack fixes leading to later problems.

Same, when you do the brake fluid, its cheap and easy to do.

My worry is more body rust, you see a lot of rusty s14s, skylines etc.

I would go on condition not mileage. Time will tell how 350z engines hold up to high mileage, but "modern" engines with better materials and tolerances keep going much longer than "old" engines. My last car was 170k when I took it to 380bhp, I opened the engine to fit forged rods and there were still hone marks in the bores, bearings were all fine. On the other hand you can pull apart an engine with 60k that has had 1 oil change is a completely sludged and worn out, bearings worn through etc.

Universal bolt on arches are cheap and functional for a trackcar.

Thermostatic sandwich plate with an oil cooler is probably the easiest, if you get one with a sensor port its also easy to add an oil temp gauge. You can get 71, 85 and 93 degree thermostats for the Mishimoto sandwich plates. You can also restrict air flow through the oil cooler if you find its over cooling. Turbos can drive oil temperatures up on track very quickly. A thermostatic oil cooler is cheap insurance, plus you can spend more time on boost! Oil cooler and lines will add another half litre or so of oil.

GC do them for £180 if nobody on here has one for sale http://www.gcfabrications.co.uk/350z_Harness_Bar_Cabin_Brace/p2703117_13654174.aspx

That must be infuriating! Especially with the amount of mods on the car. What are you replacing it with? Are you keeping the car or is the insurance getting it? (want to sell a slightly damp supercharger kit?)

So how do people find an R33 GTR compared to a 350z in terms of handling?

I would be wary of selling a known good car, to buy a modified unknown car, it could very quickly eat up the money you get. If it is a properly modified car it could be great, it is normally cheaper to buy an already modified car than do it yourself, however a poorly modified car just means you fix all the mistakes. Have you driven one? It is different from a 350z, definitely feels "old". You will also generally have more general age related issues. Check for rust! I checked a few over for a mate and they were rotten! I would also be wary of a car that looks very fresh, and what is hiding under body kits. A quick blow over can hide a myriad of sins. I also dont think s14s represent good value for money any more, they were a few years ago, but now you are paying a scene tax. However nobody is doing this for sensible reasons, we all do what puts a grin on our face.

DE or HR HFCs?

Interesting info, thanks Mark.

Can you see where it comes in with a hosepipe an an assistant?

There are universal washer bottles on ebay. You could also go for a wander around a yard and see what is in other cars, I have done that with a tape measure for radiators before.

Looking for a NSF wing in good condition. This colour thanks

What are the perforated tubes for?

Just curious, why do you want it?

Could be pad choice, glazed pads, or a different level of brake assist from the previous car?

Air jacks?

An engine is not steady flow though, Bernoulli does not describe transient. There are also fluid friction losses, you could add Poiseuille's Law, but that would still be laminar, and assume no turbulence. You can change intake runner length, and plenum volume to increase VE at certain RPM, hence some cars have intake flaps. A smaller diameter port will have a higher velocity at lower rpm, but "choke" at high rpm, a large port will flow great at high RPM, but have low velocity at low RPM, trade offs that you want matched to the rest of the engine, and its use.