andy10v

Should be a nice upgrade for daily use, hassle free. Wavetrac would be even better as it will not go open under no load, but still avoids the hassle of a plated diff.

Paid.

Cheers guys. Cone filter is still fitted, I will fit the OEM airbox then the velocity stack group buy is done. Final rail height, front cross bar will be same as rear, need to trim, weld it up and box/gusset then paint. Will find out if I can do 5mm on 13A plug shortly. Seat height for track/helmet is sorted by removing the base cushion, actually still quite comfy, and the sides are more supportive. Might try a thin bit of foam with black cloth over it as well. However the 350 is about to get turfed out the garage to sort a mates S14; turbo back exhaust, FMIC, fuel pump, short shifter and discs/pads.

Binned that idea, too close to the door.

Next try However that pushes the seat too far out Seat hard against that raised inner mount So have given up in disgust for now, with narrower fixed back seats I think you could get away with it, but I dont like my shoulder being jammed into the door. And I dont want the seat to sit on top of the oem mount

The raised box in the red circle is one of the factory seat mounts. I have not checked if there is anything on the underside of the car there, but I dont really want to cut it out just now.

I will try fitting sliding rails first, they add 20mm I think, fixed if I need it as low as possible. I have a set of these in the garage, so hopefully then is room for it to go between the seat and the bracket. If not its no big deal, just takes a bit more time to get the seat position correct.

I took out my drivers seat the other night to start looking at fitting new seats. The drivers side rear inner seat mount is raised a couple of inches up from the floor which is why most after market subframes are so high. This is a mock up rail with the outer rail bent up to the height of the inner mount, you can see how much this pushes the seat up. My subframe is going to sit on the floor, with a leg up the to the oem mount. It will move the seat slightly to the right, but I can fit in with a helmet when I test fitted the seat (6'1") Loads of pictures/info here of a guy in the US modifying the Planted seat bases http://my350z.com/fo...at-bracket.html

Finally got the car in the garage. Removed the standard seat Tried a Recaro speed Mocked up rails, the raised rear mount against the tunnel is 2" up from the floor so really pushes the seat up So currently thinking of moving the seat outboard which lets it drop down Which of the plugs is for the seat airbag? Boot divider And a boring mods, picked up a Nissan bluetooth thing, and a boot net.

Are you looking at this one? http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4af0ecfd20 Which looks like an ebay.com http://www.ebay.com/...bo kit&_sacat=0 copy of the Turbonetics kit https://www.treadsto... 350Z Turbo Kit It does not seem to be common in the UK, seems to get mixed reviews in the US, and slated a lot for pipe quality/failure, turbo quality/failure and lots of heat protection for OEM components needed. It is "cheap" so will also have failures from people doing other things cheap which contribute to failure. What were you planning on doing for mapping?

Not for me, looks like a track car, but its not. Just depends what you like.

Plate lift due to corrosion is pretty common on older Brembo callipers, loads of Porsche callipers with issues I think it can be a torx or hex bolt, I would inspect closely. Bolt is likely to be well seized in, as well as loctited, heat can be useful. If its totally ruined then splitting the calliper gives access to weld on a nut, or drill it out. Not the same calliper, but same idea (pictures from the internet) Pads can be shortened as a temp solution to get the car mobile, file, linisher etc You can DIY if you have the tools/skills/time or send them off to get done.

Octet/Mark, I was just looking or rough prices which Octet has provided thanks. I was trying to cost up a basic NA tuning package Plenum spacer Ported plenum Long tube header Custom Y with single cat/decat Cams Exhaust Uprev Seems like the money would go along way towards a single turbo setup.

How much are PPE long headers to buy in the UK?

Does it come with the plenum supports and bolts?

An oil cooler with a thermostat would seem like cheap insurance for track work.

I would have thought you could get OE ones from Nissan. Eibach ones http://www.clarkmotorsport.co.uk/parts/Eibach-Rear-Camber-and-Toe-Bolt-Kit/5.72055K Careful use of heat can work wonders, careful though, easy to damage other things.

Why are you going uprev rather than using the utec? Do you just cut a hole and bond that vent on?

Ok, I guess defining excessive is the key issue here. I have seen a lot of cars recently which have excessive inner wear due to negative camber, as you say dub dubs and stancetards etc. A friends little brother bought a slammed scene car and corded the inner edge within a few months with almost full tread outer. The car has so much negative camber to tuck the tyre under the arch the outer edge is barely touching the ground. I guess your point is if you are running negative camber within a normal range of a few degrees you will not have excessive wear issues, however if you are running much toe out for improved turn in you will see much faster inner wear? I think negative camber does not cause wear on the inside of the tyre is too general a statement given the amount of cars currently running extreme negative camber currently.

Looks purposeful on with the wheels/suspension! How is the utek for tuning? How low did you manage to get the seats? What are the PF01 pads like during normal use? Sound good on track! Trackday looks great fun!

Aesthetics, handling.

Are they going to be functional?

If you want it to be as complaint as possible then stock would seem sensible. You might want to check if the car has been setup with negative camber for track, or just slammed onto its bumpstops and camber cannot be set within a normal with stock components.

Find out what suspension you have, if coilovers you may be able to decrease the compression damping to make it more compliant, just be aware you can also then blow through your travel onto the bumpstops depending on the usable stroke and spring rate, if you have particularly high rate springs it will be crashy on the road. You may also be able to fit softer springs once you find out what setup you have. 19s will be less compliant than smaller sizes. Static negative camber will cause the inside of the tyre to wear more quickly than the outside during normal road driving. Why do you say it is an internet myth? Excessive toe will also scrub tyres.

How much for the dash cubby/surround if it is still available?