Arran

I don't have a jap plate at the front but do have it stuck to the bumper as I took the holder off. Could have been me though

I don't have a jap plate at the front but do have it stuck to the bumper as I took the holder off. Could have been me though

Il do a write up when all the photos and films are put onto file dude it was one if the best things I've done in my life that trip

Where can I get one of these from without the holes for screws in?

Just come back fron the stelvio pass and nurburgring this weekend, Z was ****ing awesome on track

Go on demon tweeks and they have gold steel nuts that have a special tool aswell so you'll get the look of alloy but the strength and durability of steel 60 for 20 and the tool

What day were you at the ring? I was there Saturday and Sunday

That looks bloody lovely mate!

Completed mine last Saturday, hel line and ate superblue and its improved once again even after gearbox oil and molyslip change with nismo gearknob well worth doing

Completed mine last Saturday, hel line and ate superblue and its improved once again even after gearbox oil and molyslip change with nismo gearknob well worth doing

Yes it will be a gt unless its been retrofitted but would have thought it was a gt model

Looks like its ever so slightly lopsided?

Drop dead awful!

Best things for the gearchange in my personal experience is using the sports Nissan gearbox oil and LSD oil combined with a tube of molyslip for the gearbox, a braided clutch hose and a complete clutch bleed using ate superblue, wouldn't think it was the same car if you were blindfolded and changing gear before and after

Hks

Toe is done by bolts on the rear which you have to elongate the holes in the chassis. The front is done by the top arms if I remember correctly and they have more than enough adjustment to get it back to normal. Sly was saying dont bother with front ones

Like that! Something I've been pondering over. How hard is it to remove the lining?

James you will need camber arms if you lower it, I thought I'd get away with it but clearly not you won't need front ones no matter how low you go, but rears are needed with toe bolts. Go for the Eibach ones, I did. They are the most expensive but are the best quality and come with the bolts. All will align back up perfectly when they are on

I went for the Dualtechs, reason being as they have rubber top mounts as opposed to pillowballs so are more compliant and comfortable, the damper is twin tune not monotube so there's a layer of protection for the piston inside especially on our roads and conditions, the inboard rear spring setup is like oem works like standard, also the rear shock towers aren't designed to have a full coilover so the load could potentially cause the towers to fail. Much like the E36 and 46 BMWs, used to have a 36 so followed the same procedure Brilliant coilovers though! 14 way damping adjustable, loads of height adjusting available, spring preload adjustable aswell. Good thing about these are the design when lowered, no matter how low you go you won't bottom out as the travel always stays the same

HSD coilovers are very comfortable aswell as having a lot of adjustment

sad times! Hope the jaaaaag lives up to the owners proposition the Z did

Ten minutes will remove both the weight and wiper, done mine recently

Yes the grounding kit is worth it, made a clear difference on mine and a few others. For 30 quid from h dev you can't go wrong

Welcome Id go along the lines of Rear wiper delete Stubby aerial Grounding kit NIsmo gear knob Front plate holder delete Thats the first £100 done

25 years ago, wouldn't even bother mate the person on the other end of the line probably isn't even that old