350Butcher

Every time I see a thread with this title the very next post is someone saying "it's all rubbish, it'll never happen!" Well here is some actual evidence that would suggest otherwise.................I think a manual, front engine, rear drive and engaging to drive car has become more in demand these days as the ever growing reality of dull, characterless electric car future seems ever closer! https://www.evo.co.uk/nissan/370z/201879/nissan-370z-replacement-spied-testing?_mout=1&utm_campaign=evo_newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter

Yes you’ll have that!! 600grams saved at 8000rpm is massive. Feel your pain with cost mate!! N/a certainly is not the cheapest route!!..........getting the whole lot balanced is not one of the expensive things to be honest, worth asking the question to a machine shop? Sadly there’s no other way of doing it as it’ll just be out of balance and with one of your goals being able to rev to 8000rpm I’d say it’s essential to have it done, even if you leave something else out that can be done later.

You may find they’re lighter so better for the application anyway, saves carrying weight in strength you don’t need. Re balancing, you don’t want to balance everything individually as thats not how it is in the engine, you’ll need to take everything to a machine shop for balancing as Mark has also said to get the rotating assembly balanced (crank, flywheel, clutch cover, front pulley and piston/rods). They will weight match the pistons with pins and rods then there is a calculation or their whole weight to work out a reciprocating weight which then a portion of is then attached to the crank using bobweights, the crank is then balanced with the piston/rod weights attached to it as it will be when built up giving you a true balanced bottom end.

It has no negative effects for road use, you just gain a better feeling brake pedal. Effort is unchanged as the servo is still in place. Even on road when out for a proper drive say over to Wales or even local very twisty roads I find all the driver aids cut in far too early and really ruin a great car as they never seem to save you they just annoy you as the driver and if anything ruin your confidence, the car has so much more ability over and above where they start to interrupt things. The down side is of course the dash is now lit up like a Christmas tree which for me is far less annoying than leaving the VDC active but as I’ve written previously it’s definitely not a mod for everybody.

Thanks! Yeah they're OK.....had mixed days with them to be honest......sadly as they are very reasonably priced on the whole and it can attract the d**khead crowd with horrendous attitudes and driving standards. The more expensive days like I've just done at Silverstone are night and day by comparison so you need to pick and choose. The best thing about Javelin is purely the amount of dates they offer!!! Circuit days are the very best but Chris has moved more into the driving tours these days which is a shame (for us, very good for him I'm sure) and as you say Bookatrack being an ex-Caterham dealer do seem to have a large amount in attendance but I've had almost all good days with them but they are pricey

It definitely removes the abs (and every other device) as you remove the actuator/pump to install the delete block. There is therefore nothing between the master cylinder and the calipers once this is installed. The pedal stays firm and consistent on track where I've found it feels vague sometimes randomly when I've just been running with the fuse out, but all that was gone with this installed. Couldn't comment on your locking up as depends a lot on your pad choice (some have such an aggressive bite that they snatch, I prefer endurance type pads as they have a much more progressive bite such as Pagid RSL29 or PFC 08 or 12's) and obviously which tyres you're on. I used to run with fairly stock pads in the rear but I think they were just overheating fading to nothing and lasting forever I only noticed the issue with rears running way too hot after I switched to Pagid RSL29's all round. You can't change the braking bias as you'd have to go on a duel master cylinder/pedal box setup with bias bar for that, this uses a proportioning valve to the rears. All info here: (manuals to download beneath the text) https://www.nextrevmotorsports.com/350Z-ABS-VDC-Delete-Block-p/nr100-ab001.htm Info from Tilton on valve: (again click on the downloads and then instrucitions) https://tiltonracing.com/product/screw-type-proportioning-valve/ Yeah I was searching for basically this exact thing as didn't want to do too much/any cutting and chopping and found it! That never happens.....few emails to the owner of the firm who was a top guy and ordered it up............and very happy with the results. I've always pulled the fuse when on track (and driving most of the time to be honest) its the primary circuit that operates the passenger front/driver side left that runs hotter........on my last track day my uncle in his 370z joined me and his car with everything left alone was running slightly hotter on the primary circuit (not so much though so I guess the EBD works to even it all out). I think it just has a slight bias to the primary over the secondary, as I've uprated the brakes and started going quicker and temps go up I suppose it just highlights the issue more and more..........I'll be doing something with that nasty heat shield that wraps round the rear discs and try and get some ducting to them along the lines of how the front is. This is the setup on the oem bracket, all hoses lined up perfect.......as you can see I didn't opt to have the valve inside to change on the move as it would just create more drilling and cutting which I wasn't interested in (don't know why, car's pretty far down the road now but still think about being able to return to stock if I ever sell up!............low miles and one careful owner!)

Yeah that is a really cool pic, who knows what they climbed up to take those ones!! Those AO52’s are unreal!! So much grip!! When 350hp can’t spin them you know they’re sticky. Glad you enjoyed it mate, that’s what it’s all about. Cheers! It was the only session I filmed sadly and we made more progress with setup through the day and definitely braked lot later as confidence grew with the new brake setup and carried more corner speed here and there. Really like pics of the car on track, especially the pics showing load through the car!

Few pics from Silverstone GP with @davey_83 on board! Vid:

Nothing has really changed much this year other than been looking into a brake issue I've had for a while. I first noticed the issue on oem Brembo's as the front passenger Caliper was darkening up more than the drivers side, suggesting it was running hot (I assumed it may be dragging a little when hot etc) I checked a few obvious things but never got to the bottom of it. When I installed my AP's they caliper on the passenger side ran a little hotter still so obviously not caliper and system related! As the AP's allowed for harder, later breaking this highlighted an issue with the rear drivers side brake overheating! Given that the brake circuits are split on the diagonals I thought I have a test with the infrared thermometer.........this confirmed rear axle running very hot with a bias on the primary circuit (front passenger/rear drivers). I did a bit of searching a researching and found that (and I kind of always knew it wasn't a 100% fix) that removing the VDC fuse was running the VDC actuator in an "open" situation meaning among all other systems being inactive the EBD wasn't doing its thing either and the system runs a rear bias and primary circuit bias also! Luckily for me a motorsport company in the US has the solution! A VDC delete block.....this allows the removal of the VDC/TCS/ABS actuator and mounts a block on the same bracket and all oem brake hoses connect straight to it with the internal plumbing in the block converting the primary circuit to operate the fronts and secondary circuit operating the rears via a proportioning valve. The road test felt good and on Oct 10th I took the car to Silverstone GP circuit and the pedal feel is totally consistent and firm and the brake performance much better. Temps confirmed that across both axles now things were equal.......overall the rears still overheat but this is because they require cooling ducting as the fronts have as opposed to system imbalance as before. I know this mod wont be for everyone as it permanently removes ABS, TCS, EBD and stability systems but I'm happy to not have these interfering and again makes the car more of a raw and pleasurable drive as a result. Before: After: All still packaged under oem brake cover:

That is some serious spring rates!! I'd expect it to be an understeering dog with the front that hard. Not sure how much you can take from Valkyrie's 370z racer set up as its a 1200kg, slick shod monster and a mile away from modified road cars but keep us updated with where you go with your setup and how it effects handling as its good info. Engine build started today so updates will be coming soon! Don't think I'll be troubling 400hp on dyno dynamics dyno but still got 100hp/ltr as very realistic figures for mine. Again keep us updated with your progress with your engine work especially with intake work as it'll be good to see what you get from the custom intake you're looking at doing.......what power are you at currently? That is good news! Always good when you find a setup that works well.......and a bonus as you're happy to tune it with dampers when needed.

Cheers Alex. Cruise is deactivated by pressing either the clutch or the brake pedal.

Agree with all of the above with regards to the clutch release bearing but my post was regarding the crank thrust bearing which is loaded when dry (by depressing the clutch) and then the engine is cranked to start so I will be carrying out this mod to protect my brand new engine as it’s just unnecessary and has no plus that I can see only the negative that I mention here.

I’ll be carrying out this mod for my new engine as I hate the idea of loading dry thrust bearings (that have no forced oil feed and are just splash fed) every time the car is started. My friends at the machine shop have noticed all modern engines that are stripped down are suffering much increased wear to thrust bearings and in many cases to the point that they are out of tolerance as a direct result of being starting with clutch pedal depressed. With uprated heavy clutch pressure plates the effects with be made even worse due to the increased pedal pressure required.

Yeah think that was the Supra before regs and accountants got involved! Shame eh!

I think the new Supra looks good. I think regulations have made the proportions what they are which is a shame because with a few tweeks it could've been a stunner!...........and drop a few fake vents too! Toyota 2000GT is my all time dream car..........if I'd won the euromillions last night I'd be on the hunt for one today!

Sadly good and expensive always seem to come together! I’ll need 100% convincing it’ll deliver what I want it to. It’s also in the queue after a few other bits......one big one being full manifold back custom track day friendly exhaust so it won’t be arriving anytime soon.........plus I’ve got the engine to build first. When are you expecting to have the engine built and run in by?

Pirelli do the correct sizes for your 370z, the P zero was the winner of the 2019 Evo tyre test.........it was fastest in both dry and wet conditions...........the 4S didn't come 1st in any of the categorys, it was great if you want the 2nd best tyre out there though https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-gb/v2/car/products https://press.pirelli.com/pirelli-p-zero-named-as-best-performance-tyre-by-evo-magazine/

What ecu are you looking to use? I’ll be having a remap using UpRev after the builds done and run in and I’d like at some point to use the Syvecs PnP ecu.

Yep hard and costly but makes the car so good to drive! Haha yep that’s the cherry on top!! Out of interest I read you’re mapping it yourself, are you using UpRev or changing ecu?

Cheers for the mention! Will be updating my thread soon as my build gets going in Nov Your build is looking good, looking forward to following your progress with it all.........envious of your workshop!!

I know what you’re saying but I wasn’t being fooled by presentation myself so much at looking at the numbers and the wet braking stood out for me with budget taking best part of 30m more to stop than the 46m total the best on test managed (at only 62mph), bear in mind the people who install these type of tyres will also have budget pads too and you could be looking at doubling stopping distances over oem equipment. Whenever I’m in the scenario where traffic suddenly stops, especially on motorways, the first thing I do is look in the rear view mirror to make sure I don’t need to dive out the way for mr budget behind me!! These products just should not be on sale in my mind, there should be a minimum standard these products should meet as there are in plenty of other things.........that won’t kill you or worse someone else either!!

Been saying it for years but this type of information is what the Police should be preaching and putting out to folk and try to put these lethal tyre manufacturers out of business...........instead of still banging on the decades long "speed kills" campaign!

Really nice to see some real brakes for sale on the forum!! I had Alcon's fitted to my Evo 5 and they honestly pulled your eyes out your head.........good luck with the sale and a lucky owner! If anyone does need any brackets and maybe disc bells too made for these to be installed to something other than a 370z then give these guys a call.......top end guys, make brake kits for Aston Martin special projects and Koenigsegg so you're in same hands http://www.bgdevelopments.co.uk/

Honestly, the best thing you can do here is not ask a forum about tyres.......too many opinions, with very little supplied in the way of facts or evidence. Not saying anyone/every one is right or wrong but as tyres can be so personal and every ones experience and ability levels are different the advice is as a result all over the place. Stick to the main big brands, run a mile from cheap budget tyres and you'll be absolutely fine.

And manufacturers know their tyre will be fitted to everything out there from M3's to MPV's so it has to offer very similar traits and performance benefits across the board......within specs of course