longsh07

Ditto. No notifications for PM's or subscribed topics. Nothing in spam, no changes to email address etc etc. Using an @gmail.com address

I know you say your tyres aren't a problem but what size are you running front and rear?

Would be keen to see how you find the Meister coilovers. I'd have gone with the GT1's personally though I'm considering KW V3's or Ohlin's for my 350Z. Just on the BC's, I have a 99 JDM Impreza WRX which I fitted a set of BC BR's to a few months ago and I'm honestly not all that Impressed. They did the job for what I needed (to replace the old knackered coilovers already on the car) but given I opted for a softer spring I honestly expected a bit more compliance form them. There is something about the damper valving that I dont like. It seems to me, in my non-expert opinion, that the compression and rebound curves aren't well matched. Full soft gives a pretty good ride and reasonable handling but there is a lot of body movement (back and forth) which is most noticeable after getting a full tank of fuel. Full hard is horrific. Even with 205/55/16 tyres, you can feel even the smallest of groves in the road. Body roll is reduced obviously but its not good to drive. 10 up from soft is my current preference, seems to be a happy medium but there is still more front/back motion that I'd like... 10 down from hard was manageable too. The body motion was gone but the ride became way to crashy... Going back to my 350Z's stock suspension made me realise just how good it is. Anyway, keen to hear how you get on with the Meister's

I had one of these as track toy for a little while, great fun! TR Lane make decent roll bars in various styles that aren't too much of a pig to fit. They'll also do you a full cage if you want! - https://www.trlanefabs.co.uk/MX5-ROLL-BARS.html One other thing that I felt made a difference was delrin door bushes. May not have added much chassis stiffness as claimed but certainly took some movement out of the doors. I forget where i got mine but there are basically the same https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/bush-set-door-bushings-delrin-cobalt-pair-910-803.html

OK, I'm with you now. For me, the car holds its set speed on a flat road or uphill. Downhill it backs off until speed drops then catches the car at the set speed once things level out. This was the same before and after fitting plenum spacer. If its not a vac leak then its possible something was dislodged when cleaning which is now effecting the throttle. I'm sure you know but either fully disconnect throttle body or the battery before moving the butterfly valve. Good luck, hope you get it sorted

Had a plenum spacer fitted for years now and not noticed any issue with cruise control and engine braking. To my knowledge the car doesn't use the brake at all when cruise control is on and going down hill, mine just backs off the throttle a little until the speed falls again then 'catches' it at the set speed. Maybe that the system works differently on UK/Import or different years? Mines an 05 GT4. Edit: May have misunderstood what you mean. When you say brake, do you mean engine braking or brake brakes when using cruise control?

Question, could it be wired up in such a way that the OEM switch is used?

Stick me down for one then!

Nah, just killing time ... of course I am, its such a brilliant idea! Honestly it's not a priority for me right now but I'm keen to get my car on track (with ABS preferably)

@cs2000 its free promotion, keeping your thread top of the unread list . Appreciate where you are coming from though so will leave it at that. @OnlyAfro, feel free to PM me if you have any further info on this , always interested in know more about our cars!

Pulling the fuse was discussed but the specific post I linked refers to installing a switch on the yaw sensor done by @GodISmE Have you tested interrupting the yaw sensor? Everything I've read is to the contrary in that is all gets disabled.

Correct but disconnecting the yaw sensor apparently throws the whole system out, including ABS as was discussed here by @350Butcher which is why I was wondering if even CS's brief momentary cut would cause the same thing to happen.

Really interested in this, was reading about the fuse pull method on one of the track day threads. Question though, how does this affect the ABS? My understanding was that pulling the fuse or breaking the circuit with a switch caused the ABS system to become inoperable too. Does your board get around this somehow?

These guys usually have some good info on various brands. They just released one on ST.

Did you end up using the 350 gearbox? If so, might be worth replacing the slave cylinder before the master if that's not been done already. They are prone to fail when bleeding the clutch causing the pedal to act weird and not return properly.

As you said, owned by KW. I'm pretty sure they bought them as a way to target those who want a slightly cheaper way into coilovers as KW's can be pretty expensive. Cant comment on them myself though, but if KW make them, they should be pretty good.

Well that sun strip didn't last long Unfortunately picked up nasty chip in the screen about two weeks ago. Gone through normal process with insurance who sent out someone to repair it. Bad news was the chip became a crack when they tried to fix it. New screen it is then . Insurance company use National Windscreens. I was pretty skeptical to start with given their mediocre at best reviews but to be fair to the two techs who worked on my car were very professional (one repaired / one replaced) and did a good job. Their admin is crap though I booked my appoint online, absolute zero confirmation or communication during the week before my original appointment. I thought it hadn't been booked so called them the day before and they were like 'Yeah its booked, we'll ring in the morning when they are on their way.' Oh good, thanks! Would it have been so much trouble to send out an email to that effect after I booked the appointment? One thing I've learned from this experience though is that I clearly have trust issues with anyone working on my car. Had to strip it down myself before they turned up

Oh really? Didn't know that.

Probably, though if your sticking to the taking it too / from a prearranged appointment (retest or repair) I can't see them having too much leverage.

See my post matey. They say you can't drive if you have a dangerous fail. This is a little clearer https://www.gov.uk/government/news/mot-changes-20-may-2018 Dangerous - fail - can't drive anywhere, get ripped off by garage. Major - fail - can drive if previous certificate still valid.

Sorry, I stand corrected (https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/after-the-test)

or a major fault. It's only minors you can legally drive away with. Edit: Not the case - see next post.

No way to tell for sure but looks like the standard pipe so should be roughly similar at least. This is the underside of mine on stock vs Milltek. As you can see I had to fill the joint between centre/rear sections as it had (surprise surprise) rotted away. Quality looks somewhat questionable IMHO but it will do the job.

Yeah, the joint rots out. Happened to mine too... I posted in your other thread.

Curious to know the outcome of this? Made any progress?