evilscorp

front off fender plastics cut bit of jiggery pokery needed and a pry bar not too bad, this needs a freddy kruger hack and slash to fit as the intercooler is sticking so far forward. can't fit the sideskirts myself, probably a two man job Main thing is it all semi lines up, my cordless drill is dead and my dad is on holiday so will start drilling holes tomorrow. need some longer bolts as the bottom fender fixing point sticks out too far from the chassis.

Not heard of anyone on here or the other website having completed the swap, the wiring will be the biggest issue as I think everything will need spliced to work. But if you have the skills time and money anything is possible! Keep us updated, probably easier than an UK LS engine swap On a side note, I went to Budapest for my stag do and loved it, most of my family now want to go........ probably not to do the same things though.

Handles back on. attempt at wrapping door controls, looks naff but I will keep it until I decide to fork out on real CF ones. Side skirts and rear bumper off, new stuff on tomorrow if the weather is nice. Padded diamond stitched leather for the armrests. Should be a better update tomorrow

Hello

Crank case breather pipes (the black plastic bits your spark plugs go though, left drivers side is at the front, passengers is at the back under the throttlebody/intake pipe), one off each bank.

Why not try fitting a baffled oil catch can and start looking for where the issue might be, would rule out some problems like worn valve stem seals maybe, do your spark plugs have oil in them? From poor seals etc?

Remove the lead weight in the boot.

Thanks, shame I haven't fitted many kits either I just know I will take my time and not cheap out or half ass bits that matter. I admit it would probably work out the same to have someone else do it as I am having to buy tools each step of the way but these will help me in the future if I start modifying cars more frequently.

mine was to small aswell i made the plate it sits in from a fiesta vent pod. Also i used a cable tie to get it throught the rubber. Put a zip tie trought door end first then tape the wire to it and pull back through Thanks for the tip, but I was going to use the rubber cable runner that was there previously until I found out it is a pin connector so I have moved away from the idea and bought a gauge pod, for one gauge your idea with the fiesta vent was cool though.

As per usual I got side tracked, outside door handles came off to remove the crappy plastidip and use proper paint. Had to sand down the areas under the handle as rust bubbles were starting to show, I have yet to remove the masking tape to see the poor quality job that will be hidden by the handles and the wrap They are now black and awaiting a few coats of clear. Arse is ready for spoiler test fit and wrap. Diffuser arrived, so did all the material for the doors, now A pillar gauge pod and kinetics plenum enroute too, maybe other stuff but keep buying stuff when I have an argument with the missus....

lol I think Jake has only just found the forum, he might be a little excited, or ready to sell something?

Don't you ever go away?

350z twin A Pillar gauge pods 52mm £30 Please

If Sam doesn't want it I will take it Alex.

The one above also fits with the stock brace and has less chance of air leaks.

You have to cut out the section basically as its welded in place If I remember correctly, Probably easier swapping a small cut section, whats the issue with yours?

Group buy ?? =p

Lucky sob my gauge is just a tad too small to fit nicely so having to cut something to hold it in place. Did you wire through the original door wiring rubber protector? Struggling to pass the cable through for mine, May need to use a coat hanger. Also did you just block the vent off with a bit of material? Nice job btw, and if you have cable long enough the battery is the best firewall grommet to use.

So Alcantara ain't cheap ended up having to buy it from germany as it was the cheapest somehow. Also will be turning an ebay diffuser into a rocket bunny style as the knight racer ones seem overly expensive. But my new indicators turned up and I started spraying the holes, very labor intensive for little change in appearance. Just needs a layer of lacquer before I wrap and then drill some holes for the new spoiler location (which no doubt will need the stands sanded to fit the curve of poisons ass. Forgot to take photos after I sanded the filler and primer down. Its pretty boring so I am sure any sad folk reading this wont mind.

I think you will need a new stud for the hub too from the looks of it can't quite make out what is left of the wheel nut

So things escalated quickly.. I was going to be removing the boot for welding then my dad persuaded me, that we(me) could use fiberglass/filler to fill the holes and stick the badge back on to cover the two which can't be accessed from behind. Then I was simply going to measure up my oil temp/fuel pressure gauge with the drivers door air vent which I had seen someone on here fill with a gauge. Now I find myself emailing folk to get quotes for alcantara re-trims of both doors and I will be replacing some of the boot trim because 'it's not a racecar' its just something I like to drive but too scared now to crash on a track. Back to a GT car she goes.

Congratulations dude

I hate bodywork, small rust bubbles that would play on my mind and also prep the surface for welding. Also bought some grommets to see if I could live without welding the holes.... nope.

Clicky rear axle, just needs grease, search and you will get your answer. Welcome on-board.

Stripping down the rear tail gate, sending it off to get the holes welded by the same guy that did Paul's lovely red beast. Hopefully will need a quick coat of primer and paint for protection underneath the wrap then the BGW finally goes on. eight bolts, two wires and the rear wiper spray hose off. Next up is to check it fits in the 300C boot lol.