Michael robinson

mine is definatly a gt but not on the v5 document and my colour is classesed as orange if that helps

Dose everything come on but when you turn the key it just clicks and your battery light flickers ?

Am playing this ( half way through career or DNA ) This game was the only reason I bought a ps3 well that and ufc Haha

Can these be fitted without taking the front bumper off ?

It is a very good game and has improved quite abit from the last shift ( kind of a better version of gt5 ) There a a hell of alot more option now and it feels much more with it . I totally agree dirt 3 will be amazing can't wait to try gymkhana

Av just bought this and must say am very impressed . What you guys think of it ?

Haven't used them but am sure there bodykits a replicas not originals , that's how they are so cheap.

to the forum he has the cd rom version of the manual for sale I think .

Sounds to me like your thrust bearing but may be wrong . Do you drive with your foot resting on the pedel ?

+1 It's not even really 3d it just adds depth to it, like all these picture's arnt really 3d. I will be impressed when they can produce real 3G systems Like this demo at a gadget show http://idleparis.co.uk/wp-content/uploa ... ighter.jpg

Unfortunately it sounds like your ballast / starter . There are fuse compartments in the drivers foot well and next to you battery with info of what fuse dose what . If it turns out to be a Balllast I would try as he Is the man with the goods

They've been out for years mate the only way around this is to get an armoured lock witch don't use your standard key .

This happened to me last year I went to go through my insurance (auto glass) but it would be classed as a claim , so I just payed for it my self ( not through auto glass as there robbing b@sta*d) It only cost £120 from a little local company which is a hell of alot better that going through insurance or auto con .

Could be a throttle conection as it sound like a delayed signal or action to your throttle body . Check connections under pedel and at the throttle body If that don't help try taking the throttle body off and clean the inside and lubricate the lever mechanisim .

Are they the LED type?

It's my daily driver so I normally fill it every week but buy the end of the week I have always still got a quarter of a tank left so never have to completely fill from empty . I have never let any of my cars go below that since I had a bad experience with my first car a 206, it sucked the crap through from the tank and blocked my filter ( could of been alot worse ) so don't even chance it now .

Light work , radio works , seats move evrything comes on just nothing once u turn the key . If you link the battery to the engine casing it turns over (ie starting motor turns) but nothing else happens no spark etc

Sorry to always seem to shout for help but this time it's serious Here's the story I was taking my girlfriend to a job interview and half way ther I pulled up to a set of lights and the car just died, I tried to restart it but nothing . Then tried again and electric came back could here relay click but nothing, got a few kids from the street to push me and tried to bump start it, it started the first time for about 10second then died and wouldn't start after that. So phoned AA and he turned up he pluged his dynostic set in but couldn't get it to linked up. We tried linking the battery to his booster pack still nothing. he also tried reset procedures and play around pressing buttons on the key fob (must be reset procedures for immobiliser) - immobiliser had consant red light . Then he linked the battery to the engine casing and it turns over but its not getting sparks from my plugs and don't think am getting fuel. (cooling fan is running full belt when ignitions on) anyway after a while he give up and i got recovered to my home Two days on i have tested all fuses and relays and all are fine the immobiliser light is back to normal (flashing red) and cooling fans dose not run when ignition is turned on. when i turn the ignition key the engine/oil/battery lights stay on and i hear a clicking noise ( battery light flashes with clicking noise) - i have recharged battery and it seems to be holding its voltage well. i got a hold of a obd2 code reader off one of my friends and the car still wont work connect to the unit . 2days on - i removed all connectors, fuses, relays , tested them and put them back . tryed to start and we have life everything back to normal like nothing happened , i drove it straight to the nissan garage and got a free diagnostic check (friends ) the diagnotic connected straight away but no fault logged . it worked for 2 days perfect till i was driving home then the engine light came on and it started spluttering kept running for about 200 yard then died . got it recovered and taken it to nissan as i couldnt work on it anymore than i did plus couldnt check underneath due to body kit . anyway two days on that nissan has had it they come back saying that they cant find anything wrong so far and they think its an ecu fault so are sending it to be tested . i thought it was a loose earth wire or my bendix in the starting motor or the hole starting motor that would be at fault but thhey seem to think other wise what you guys and girls think ?

I did consider wheels and spacers just didn't think that they would have to be that big or have so aggressive off sets . To tell you the truth I didn't even think about the effects of the arches That much as I didn't think it would need much modding to do but totally forgot about suspension travel etc I will think of what I what I want to do then when av done it al post some more pics to show which direction av chosen

Thanks al do that now

[/quote Surely if the wheels were wide enough the tyres will foul on the OEM arches with the suspension travel. Normally the wheel would go up inside the arch at full travel. That's what the body shop said mate

the body shop I used said I did have to so the wheels could come past the arch al take a pic tomorrow and show you what he told me. I would need 60mm spacers on the back to fill them properly and I think going that big would stress joints quite abit . Kit is just glued on at the min so I could take the arches off I love the hole kit just when I have to sell up one day al have to hope someone likes the kit as once the standard arches are cut out there's no going back really . Decisions decisions .

I do love it the way it is with the arches on mate it makes me grin like I did when I was a kid with a new toy just don't like the idea of cutting the standard ones out . the wheel will only come so far out until it hits the inner standard arch the way it is at the min as the vs3 arches are layer on top of standard body but bulge out an extra 2.5 -3 inch . I don't no what to do for the best What you's think ?

this is the dilema am having i can push them out to a certain extent untill i would need to cut or do something with the original arch , i dont no what to do ? as i would of thought cutting the arches out would destroy the car

just worked out how to upload picture to here so thought ad share pic's of my baby to find out what you's people think? - i no the wheels dont fill the arches on the back but am still thinking about weather or not to keep the arches on the car (i like them just dont want to cut the inner arches out and potentially destroy the car ) what you guys think ? advice and opinions would be appretiated