doctor austin

How about fitting new brushes... any brushes (carbon) will do and simply file them to shape. typically they can cost up to £3.00 just make sure they are slightly bigger than the ones in the window lifter motor, but thats not hard as they are real small. Take a look on ebay for carbon brushes. Motor will be as new then!

Its dead easy to strip out and clean. For sure it'll work fine then. If you struggle to find the instructions I have them saved and can email them to you...but I am sure someone here will know where to find them.... best of luck

None in Cambridge too...... yet

Its a real easy job to fix it, almost certainly needs the commutator cleaning... check out the guide as previously stated its real good. It'll take less than two hours and cost 0! since I did mine its been perfect. The commutator gets carbon and grease in it causing the motor to struggle. It is worth a try. Oh yes a new motor will also fix the problem too but alas that will cost rather more than 0. Good luck

Will Just wondering how you got on with the power window motor??? hope you managed it okay. Nick

There is at least 1 guide on this..sorry dont know the link, but I have a copy saved on my PC if you need it. It is actually very straight foward but best not to be against the clock. Mine had been playing up for a while before it actually stopped working and now its much quieter and so far back to as new. The segments on the commutator were oxidised and greasy, easily removed with scotchbrite and IPA or Ethanol or petrol. I dont recall it being difficult but remember at the time thinking I'll either fix it or totally mess it but either way something has to be done. So give it a go

Cleaning the commutator really does work!! cost 0

Yep I had this a couple of months ago. I stripped out the motor and cleaned the commutator, then alls been good so far. Its a fiddly job and it took me 1.5 hours. there is a guide here somewhere that is very usefull. So a simple but fiddly job. well worth doing. Good luck

Just as an asside I know of someone that got caught using a retractable plate and ended up with a short custodial sentance due to 'peverting the course of justice' all due to speeding and using a retractable number plate. So if you use it be sure you cant be traced...I am told also that you could also have your vehicle crushed.... oh same applies to the reflective coatings!! its not a fair world...gone are the days you had to keep your eyes peeled if you go a bit quick!! Be safe

Yes to confirm the JDM is silent compared to a UK rear box... and a straight swap.

I changed my system by driving it up on several concrete slabes on just one side and made myself comfy together with a grinder and ground off any stubbern bolts. The tip that helped me was to lubricate the mounting rubbers in order to pull off the barbed type mountings and also to refit.

Yes the are so quiet.... I mean real quiet. The standard UK rear box sounds much better.

WD40 gets it off easily, dampen a cloth with it on and wipe it off.

Who knows! its been there since I have owned the car(6months) I guess someone either replaced or just removed the filter, maybe the garage I bought it from and somehow managed to let the small piece of leaf get the wrong side of the filter then murphys law applied so it went straight for the little slots in the MAF sensor. Tell you what its so nice to have a real steady idle even without the aircon on. Whilst it didn't run bad once off idle its a lot smoother now...no wonder that engine management lamp came on. The other good thing is I now feel confident about is reading the codes from the dash lamp too if I ever need to (hope not) but its easy once you get the hang of it and saves having to get a reader (difficult for a JDM) or pay a garage. So I love the Zed even more now

Just done mine this evening took an hour .. the motor just needed the commutator cleaning..works brill now

When I got my jdm the rear speakers didnt work too, on investigation both had blown coils so needed replacing with new units(dont know why). Spend what you like..£25 to £100's I bought some for anot£50 and am really pleased with the sound......So my advice is to take the speakers out and measure to see if you have any resistance across the speaker coil if not replace....maybe it may help!

So I though it would be worth sharing this... So the symptoms were low idle speed and a bit lumpy, when listening at the exuast exit there was the odd mis beat, however with aircon on alls fine...then of late the Mil lamp has been on(several times and reset) code were 170 week running bank1, 300 misc misfire, and 1001 CanBus failure(simular to I2C comms) but the seemed to run okay anyways to cut a long story short the problem was a very small bit of leaf wedged in the MAF sensor...must of been there since I had the car. So removed it and washed the sensor with contact cleaner and now the idle is just purrrrfect rock steady at 750 rpm no air con and 800ish with aircon and silky smooth. overall the pick up from low revs is cleaner and the fuel consumption improved by 3-4 mpg oh and now the mil lamp stays off thank goddness!!..........I cant tell you have relieved I am to of sorted it. It was getting to me in a big way......I hate to think the outcome if I took it to a dealer to fix. Anyways I hope this information may be of some use to someone..one day.

Mines the same too, but when cold I 'double de clutch' only really notice it on cold mornings for the first or second change.

Yes good advice thank you I'll call then tomorrow. This is really getting to me.

Am really hoping someone can give me some advice as I really dont know what to do next.... 2003 JDM 50,000miles ECU lamp has come on, and I have now had the codes read: P0171,system too lean bank1,intake/exhaust leak/AIR system?MEF/VAF sensor/fuel pressure/pump/injectors/Ho2S 1001, CAN data bus-signal malfunction/wiring My local garage was helpful to read the codes but didnt seem confident enough to pinpoint the problem and even mentioned that the whole car may need a rewire due to the CANbus signal fault BTW the car seems to go fine no issues..... doesnt use any oil and does 28+mpg Any advice what to do next will be appreciated please

Alls okay today .. Just wondering what anyone makes of the code I read from the flashing ECU lamp? 10 slow, 1 fast, 7 fast,1 fast, 1 fast,10 fast, 10 fast ,1 fast,10 slow Thanks Nick

Yep done it and will see what happens on the way to work tomorrow...... my guess is it'll come on again within the next day or so so something is amiss... hoping a Lambda sensor or something...only other thought is what would happen if the seal for the cam cover leaks to the spark plug enough to cause an intemittent missfire due to oil shorting the EHT to ground as I know one of the plugs get a bit of oil in and around it ..having said that I have not noticed any missfire and tried today giving it some but all was fine...just that blooming ECU light...

Oh and BTW the car seems to be running well no noticable side effects ... the exhuast stays clean after 60 miles no sooty deposit etc and performance is ok too..... but that code just baffles me!

Please help. 2003 JDM 50000 miles. Always noted slight rough tick over but ok with aircon on. After 6 months and 5000 trouble free miles it has thrown up a engine management light last week, so I tried reading the codes but was unsure and reset the ECU. 100 miles later whilst at 70mph ECU light again..so this time I have spent ages getting the code from the light flashes and repeatedly get the following sequence of flashes... does anyone know what they mean please. 10 slow, 1 fast, 7 fast,1 fast, 1 fast,10 fast, 10 fast ,1 fast,10 slow This just reapeats but I cant decifer what it all means. I have again reset the ECU but for sure it'll be on again soon . Many thanks Nick