Husky

With that cover out of the way, remove to two screws holding the handle to the door (these are 10mm): With the screws removed, the handle will pull out from the door Now that the handle's out of the way, we remove the panel that holds the buttons. It has clips all the way around - I started at the rear, went around one side to the front, then it lifted out pretty easily: Once you have the assembly off, follow the same steps as the driver's side above: - remove the housing from the assembly by prying the fasteners loose - remove the control box from the housing - remove and replace the LEDs (note the location of the notches) - test by plugging into the wiring harness NOTE - the drivers' side controls must be connected in order to test the passenger side - snap the control box into the housing (ensure window actuator is centered) - snap the housing into the assembly - reinstall the assembly onto the door Door Handle Mounted Controls END

You should now see the circuit board. Remove the LEDs that are circled. Notice the orientation of the notched corner of each LED. The notch designates the Cathode end. The new LEDs must be replaced in the same orientation. The pic shows the relative location of the notched corner with the word "Notch". After soldering in the new LEDs, take the board to the car, connect the large connector and turn the ignition key to ACC. You should see all three LEDs light up. If the LED's do not light up, double check the orientation and / or resolder and try again. Once your LEDs are lighting, you are ready to reassemble Check to make sure that the power window actuators on the circuit board are centered in their respective slots. If they are not centered, move them into the center of the slot. Snap the control box back into the housing and check the action of the switches. Everything should have the same feel as before. Snap the control box back into the door handle assembly. Reconnect the wiring connectos to the door handle assembly and before you snap that back into place on the door, turn the ignition to ACC and check the operation of the window switches, the door locks, the mirror control and the passenger side controls kill switch. If all the switches are working normally, snap the door handle into place in the door. If not, make sure the wiring connectors from the door are snapped in tight, if still no good, take the assembly apart and confirm the window actuators are centered in their slots. Insert and tighten the securing screw and replace the plastic cap. The process for the passenger side door is identical except that there is a slight difference in removing the door handle assembly and there are only two LEDs to replace. First, use a flat edge to pry up the top part of the brushed aluminum cover plate:

http://hallofrecord.blogspot.com/2009/1 ... -cars.html

The release tabs for the connectors are located on the outboard sides of each connector. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to press on the release tab and pull the connector free. Grasp the ends of the connector when removing; do not pull on the wires. After the connectors are loose, take the assembly to your work area. Use the small flat blade to pry the retaining clips loose and remove the control box from the assembly. This may take a bit of back and forth as the clips tend to want to jump back into position. Be careful you dont pry too hard and break a clip. Use the small flat blade screw driver to remove the control box housing. When the housing is loose on all sides, pull it straight up and off. The control buttons will come up with the housing. You do not need to do anything else with the housing, set it aside.

still writing, please dont comment Credit for alot of these instructions goes to Ibz i adapted some of them onto 350z-uk.com with his permission. It is worth bearing in mind these pictures are from a left hand drive vehicle so will differ slightly from your own. This thread will form part of a larger collection providing a guide on how to change the interior lighting and gauge colours. Door Handle Mounted Controls Use the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver to pop off the screw cover at the bottom of the door grip area. Use a #2 Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screw Grasp the outside edge of the door grip (may take two hands) and pull slightly back and up on the door grip piece until it snaps out of place from the door panel. It may be easier to wrap a medium sized flat blade screw driver blade in electrical tape and pry the grip loose in the area indicated by the arrow below. Turn the door grip upside down and unplug the two connectors going into the control box.

you'll find lots of help and ideas here Alot of people start with a stubby aerial as their first mod rather than the flagpole, nice and cheap and sets you on the slippery slope

thanks guys, still some bits to polish off and all the rest of them to do

you sure you werent actually awake and in the car for that one shorty?

fantastic information!!! where have you been all my life tell me more!! i think ive been lucky then

ok mine arrived. here goes

after all that work.. GLWTS

knew youd get it mate i decided on getting one as i cant do it in my work boots gotta keep the drive to work interesting

gotta love that sound!!

always good to have another shop on board

i get 6 and he gets 2 and he gets the prize. i dont care that its a its my

Sorry Chris, Sarnie is a bad influence. I think a scorpion would be a good choice for the noise you said you were after mate

Stop bragging about it one down mwahahahaha im just waiting for the OI! from nixy now haha

TBH i dont even want to comment on how much this annoyed me. to clear up: I tried to help for OUR members sake not for japseye. I sent a PM to some people after noting they wouldnt have enough K2's noting my "surprise" that this has happened. I would wonder if Japseye are lacking in K2's as they are having to correct fitment problems with thier stock? maybe im wrong The group buy has been a @*!# hole from start to finish and i'll be glad if they loose the sales but genuinely gutted for the people possibly not getting an exhaust.

amercians

as you say it does depend on how bad the original is in the first place. i wouldnt go selling my right b@ll@ck for one though. 200 quid is very steep! 40 sounds reasonable, or make it yourself.

no problem

found this while pottering around. i know the UK has a nicer exhaust but didnt realise there was a difference in air intakes?? although some bits are wrong i think.

fast? i was an hour late on it as i was in a meeting your just too dam slow

the grounding installed by nissan isnt the best, doesnt use the best connectors or wire. this can lead to electrical noise through the wires which is then picked up by the ECU's and can distort some signals and slow them down or give them false readings. by improving the grounding you give the ECU's cleaner signals to work with and thus improve their reponse time and accuracy. generally people report that installing this can smooth the idle of the vehicle. it may also have other positive effects which are unnoticable to the user. I cant see there being any drawbacks to this mod whatsoever. IMO i would say it is a practical mod and looks good too.