pathfinder123

If this happens to your cat, don't take it to the Vet ! They will X-Ray it, give it injections and tablets, and charge you a small fortune. I think that our Vet is off on yet another Caribbean cruise, funded by our cats... S.

No problem. Had a bit of spare time yesterday to investigate my noise, but found that it had gone ! Intermittent problems are the worse.... S.

Found this, might help... http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html S.

Some cars have them, but I don't know about the Z. Maybe someone can confirm or otherwise. S.

I have the same noise on my setup. Small computer in rear cubby feeding the tape input on the Bose. It's alternator electrical noise which is getting in on either the +12V supply line, the earths or both. It a is very low volume, and I'm not sure whether to bother to investigate or not. S.

Plasma TV's can suffer from screen burn, cause radio interference and generally have higher power consumption than other types. S.

If you are not too fat/tall or old an MX5. S.

Hi Aaron welcome to the forum. Pleased you are getting a black 350Z GT, because that's what I have. Just down the road from you at Woburn Sands. Cheers Stewart

A year ago I paid £18.5k for a Black 08 GT Coupe with 9k on the clock, and full warranty. The dealer also gave me above market trade-in for my 2L Focus. However, they managed to supply the car with rear tyres that had only minimal tread, and a slightly kerbed NSF Ray wheel. All in all though, pleased with the deal and the car... S.

J10 *** R/A at Fenny Stratford - 10am today... S.

Followed Black Coupe G7*** into Baldock. Flashed headlights and exchanged waves. S.

No need to remove the battery, but it's always a good idea to disconnect when doing any electrical work. Always disconnect the battery negative lead first, that way if the spanner touches between the positive terminal and the car metalwork there is no short circuit of the battery. When reconnecting, connect the positive lead first. S.

If you try and mount everything in/on wood your biggest problem is going to be unwanted electrical noise. Mount all of the main parts in/on aluminum. Either get a sheet of it, or better still a box or chassis. You can buy it from RS Components (search the interweb). Even with a metallic chassis, make sure that all of your earthing is good between the units. Put a suitable sized (amperage) fuse in the supply lead, particularly if you are running from a battery. Get one thing going at a time, don't go connecting it all up and expecting it to work first time. Have fun... S.

I thought - if England win the World Cup - where can I go to get some peace ? They lost - I am still wondering - where can I go to get some peace ? ENUF !!!! S.

Can you get Legionnaires' disease from your A/C ? S.

Yes - it's kept in the secret compartment S.

It all confirms why I hate football. Yawn... S.

Thanks guys. Brought a big tub at Halfrauds, so now well prepared. S.

I have some wheel spacers on order and will be fitting them this weekend. I had intended to use a copper based anti-seize compound such as Copaslip, but on another group it was mentioned how the copper component reacts with aluminium to produces a rather nasty oxide. I wonder if anyone has had experienced of this ? There is a product called Alumslip which the manufacturer claims can be used "where there is a prejudice against the presence of copper". Bet it's not cheap, however I don't want my wheel hubs dissolving !... S.

Ah, if someone would like to loan me their Honda one, I will test it. I "promise" to send them the original one back S.

Although I mainly listen to mp3's in the car, occasionally it makes a change to see what the radio has to offer. However, since changing over to a stubby aerial it has been a bit hit and miss whether I could hear the station I wanted without a lot of background noise and fading. One of my hobbies is amateur (ham) radio so messing about with antennas (sorry aerials) is something I am pretty familiar with. So I decided to compare the original bee-sting aerial with the stubby using some radio test equipment I have. Sorry if this gets a bit technical... Because the bee-sting is over twice the length of the stubby it captures more signal, but the biggest difference is in the bandwidth each covers. Briefly the FM band is from 88MHz to 108MHz, and the bee-sting has two peaks in it's performance, one at the lower frequency end (88MHz) and one at the top of the frequency band (108MHz). The overlap in these peaks mean that it covers the FM band well. However, because of it's much shorter length the stubby is sharply tuned only to the top of the frequency band (around 98MHz), which means stations on other frequencies are received very much weaker. Although the stubby looks better on the car I find that it performs about as well as a "Chocolate Fireguard". So the bee-sting is back. I guess you pay's your money, and takes your choice. Cheers S.

Yup... S.

Try rotating the 2 rubber bump stops at the front edge of the boot lid. If that stops it apply some lubricant between the rubber and the metal. I used silicon grease. S.

Intending to put wheel spacers on my wagon, I made a call to my insurance company. Saga to be precise (YES, I am that old) ! The young lady at the other end of the phone said "hang on I'll have a look on the modification list to find wheel spacers, sorry they are not down here, what are they ?" I explained what they were, and what they were for (cosmetic improvements to the car). "Sorry, I will put you on hold while I ask my manager". 10 mins pass "Sorry to have kept you, but my manager doesn't know either !" " I will speak with the Underwriters and call you back" 5 mins pass "Hello, that's OK we will amend your policy and send out a new schedule" How much will that cost ? "Nothing" Fantastic !!! Two days later the new schedule arrives. The only changes on it are Modifications now equal YES. *** Result *** Does this mean I am free to fit some mods which are more b*lls out ? S.

Gave up exercise when they took the winders off wrist watches... S.