yokomo

hmm , is it wrong that i dont think that looks wrong ??

+1 just find a good car audio palce nearby , must be one somewhere close ish and get them to make it and buy the sub from them if you feel you cant make the box yourself. the under strut is a very simple design , bacialy a box made to the right size for your sub with panels at the front and back to match the struts curve stuck on. re volume , if your not going ported then as long as its not say 10 litres either side of the spec it wont make much difference. fiberglass is the prefered material for audio since it cna be made to any shape and strength by just makeing it thicker, also alot lighter. getting an FG box made will be considerably more expensive but makeing one yourself works out about the same since its a cheap material but very labour intenisve vs just cutting some mdf and putting it togther.

344 whp rich5259 350 maz0 357 Husky 362 3fiddyz 365 Narcotix 375 sparky350z 380 shieldsie 384.9 Stichy 385 dcash5 387 gunmetalzgt 392 Cookiemonster 395 rtbiscuit 398.5 Fakeindian 399.9 Lexx 400 Nurrish 404 Sarnie 408 Andlid 415 Ian 430 IanS16 274 lincolnbaggie 340 WHP Chris I 350 maz0 344 GT4Zed 340 Paul T 370 yokomo eitherway its going to be once rapid car.

you should have a loose blue and white white wire on the adapter harness and this goes to the blue and white wire on the head units own loom. the headunit one may or may not be loose but should be marked wiht alable as amp signal or power anttena. this might help.... viewtopic.php?f=17&t=31260

if its a bose car then you need to make sure the blue/blue and white amp signal cable is spliced into the loom.

if its just the under strut bar one any good audio shop cna knock one up for pretty cheap as they just make anormla mdf box and put a curved front on it.

my glass supplier ... http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/ do pretty muhc everything inlucuding carbon , kevlar and woven aka looks like white carbon fiberglass.

looking to be one unique setup that wiht the NOS behind the passenger. What fabric is that youve used to form the bottle housing ? Its one part of the box making ive always struggled to get somthing that wets out and sets rigid enough to put more layers of glass on, looks like some kinds of fluffy flease !

you could say that yeah ! they mseed up alot fo the clubs stand space so some had huge open spaces with onyl a few cars and we had way more cars than space so had to put 2 rows down the middle.

They don't work simples? Better join that place and see what they state about using one or not (spent 1 hour reading more or less the same statement 'door stopper' etc etc... but no good answer to why they would not work. Either way I'm not going to block this thread anymore with this, might start a new thread though... Basically, time the battery takes to give something power is 5-10ms. A cap is faster near enough zero responce time. They dont work as supposidly they give you fast power for when the bass drops but it doesnt happen like that. Most people fit them to stop their lights dimming. They do stop the lights dimming because the the cap is always trying to recharge itself. The lights just stay dim rather than light then dim. As for faster responce time they dont work for that either. They dont provide anywere enough power to do anything. Then even if they do do anything they will cause a V droop because the cap has to replensh itself. You cant take power from somewhere in a link with out replacing it. Whislt the power cap is recharging its taking power away from the amps. The only proven cap that works is the BATCAP. Most people dont run caps but bigger alts or more batteries. well put , they aint cheap either best of just get a proper ice battery !

LSMMTUAFIMC = Laughing so much my turban unravels and falls in my curry. hey at least it wasnt broken , your not the first to make a silly mistake

on a more fun note , spotted Yokomo at the fast show ! http://www.thefastshow.com/gallery_gene ... 4957fs10dj

Amp defeat is usually a setting , keep trying the options till you vet I guess

ok stupid question here but didnt you have amps in previous car , you dont by anychance still have it set to no internal amp ? assuming its not that simple have you got any old speakers lying about you could bodge to the HU loom directly to check , would be my next option.

eitherway , looks pretty nice and would you complain at a free highly modded Z ?

feel ye on the last part , best i can think of is get some pics of all the looms up and we can try and pic diagnose ! can you get the md changer setup working ? if so might be worth trying to track back where the audio gets routed from Hu to whats left haningi out the bulkhead.

ah if by the etc jap stuff you mean sound from the nav unit it could be that sitting between the point your plugging in the new HU and the speakers so could be the wires japex mentioned , im gonna get them to fit my Y pipe when it comes so if its not sorted by then il ask see what they say . failing that might be worth having a nose round my350z , also if your not using the nav becasue its in japanese/no uk maps have you thought about pulling it ?

hehe if hed manged to squeeze by the crowd round it and the skyline i was next to hed see my 350z-uk sticker in the back window plus i popped a few cards under my wipers later on in the day . we got done over on the stand space liek alot of clubs as it was wellllllll packed so i was lucky my car was visible right at the edge fo our stand wiht the rest packed in tight. il grab some of the photos of face.book.

yeah that would be me , i did see a sunset just near the end as it was leaving . was really rare to see a Z not inc Markie , there was me , Amyzed's on max power and i saw 3 others ! 1 nicely kitted and the other 2 stock (or at least looked stock) soout of 6 cars only 3 modded Z in the whole show no wonder we call got some attention

cool , least il have someone to follow every other lap ! on a side note how did the mapping go , im guessing the guys at abbey made light work of it seeing as they had the drag car ready for pod the next day !

go carbon you know you want to (plus you cna always spray the carbon and all its cost you is the difference but you cant carbon the frp , well its not worth it)

yes , chips dont show so bad on carbon believe it or not and as long as you dont break it clean in 2 can be fixed . seriously you should ahve seen the scrape i gave mine and had it fixed in minutes , granted its not totally smooth but im going to sand it smooth today, should ahve taken some photos really if its painted the onyl fix is take it off and get a respray like any other bodywork. still its down to personal prefs on loks but im in the carbon addict camp.

just to confirm my day as sunday and is anyone getting track time or is just abit mad on these events ? pod gets swamped , fast show had a constant queue the length of the strip !

hmm , shame im not nearer your way or id come round and give it a look. any chance of some pics , the stuff part of the car and all your extra harnesses ? theres normally 3 , remote for the wheel controls , power and amp signal etc and then the speaker cons but im guessing youve got alot more with the nav . im assuming the old md unit worked ok and that you have sound from you nav by swapping to an external source on it ? or did the sound from the nav come through the speakers regardless of what the HU was doing..... if this is the case maybe the head unit and nav sound have some sort of coming together ?

think we should get back on topic here and help him out. if it was my cash .. about £100+-30 on a nice set of fronts and bin the rears (already got them faded right down) make not so important infinity , dls , rainbow ,focal , alpine etc make sure you demo them on some tunes you know as they all vary . amp id go 4 chan and aim for about 400w total £200 maybe less sub this is going to depend on what amp you picked and where you intend to put it , me if i was buying now id go 10" rated for 300wrms to give myself some headroom , again known brands and look for the volume needed for sealed running (see end of post for box ideas) but i wouldnt spend more than £100 as youl just be buying more power handling. rest is going on the amp wireing kit , make not really important just make sure its rated for more than your pulling (check the rms value as many go for huge headline number like amps do by showing peak figures) box , thisis a tough question as anything looking remotly good is either expensive or works out that way after its come form the states. if your ok pulling the car aprt (which your going to pretty much have to inorder to wire up the new comps) then id take the bose plate out and grab the drawings off one the guys on here thats made box for the bose spot and as long as its not too under sized youl be fine wiht some wadding. or if your feeling creative and ok at diy have a go at making your own fiberglass box. it will cost you about £50 and a weekend maybe too if your first attempt goes pete tong (youl have enough supplies for at least 3 boxes ) actually having looked more at amps its abit of a no mans land £200 nothing rally out there to justify the extra id get this lot .... http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jl-audio-10w0v2.html http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/jbl-gto1004.html comps youd ahve to demo them but like these (good power handling and small/light weight design) http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/vibe-liteair-6.html or maybe these http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/rainbow-slx265.html again demo pending ! /end huugge post