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Thanks for the advice. Looks like I've cured it (fingers crossed anyway). I replaced the PCV valve as the old one was a little overdue, worth doing anyway for a few pounds. I also fully recharged the battery, re-seated it and cleaned all the connections. I also checked all the coil pack connections were true then cleared the engine codes. Started first time and has run sweetly ever since. While I can't be certain, I think it was down to the battery disconnecting when I hit a pothole (my fault it was not properly fixed in place), which cause a total temporary loss of electrics while the engine was in cycle. That could easily throw it into a bit of a wobble. I'm back to pissing off the neighbours with my 6am starts 🙂

Hi all - just a posterity post. I designed an adapter plate for Wilwood/Tilton style Clutch Master Cylinders. Basic directions are provided on the repository alongside some photos - all in, you can probably cut and fit this for about £30 if you use a local engineering shop and decent hardware. It cost me ~£14 to get it laser cut from 316 Stainless from a local shop. I went for A4/316 hardware from Accu.co.uk so you could definitely save some money there if you wanted to, but I stuck to the theme. Here's the repository - the design files are under Clutch-System/Master-Cylinder License is CC-BY-SA 4.0. Sell it if you want - all that's required is crediting the source (if anyone wants to financially compensate me in some way I probably won't decline, but it's absolutely not necessary!). All modifications to the design must be shared under the same CC-BY-SA 4.0 license. Hope this helps someone. Seems to be the most cost-effective option if you have a decent machine/engineering shop around. (Andover Laser are the best-priced online service in the UK I can find. About £40 from 316, so you still have about £40 in the tank before being priced out by the only other standalone adapter on the market)

Thanks Lee. Took her out Sunday for the first dry run of the year. So much fun.

Exactly how I do it. When you unplug one & the engine doesn't bog down, then that'll be your coil.

I missed this first time around, but that is absolutely lovely Martin. My uncle used to have a white one years ago, and I always enjoyed going out in it for sure. Keep enjoying it.

Great, can you let me know costs when you can? 👍

It seems to be ok today? Its basically on the clock sometimes there is and orange halo one side not the other, today it’s gone? I’ll try and get a picture if it does it again!

Yeah, I should have a straight door card seal in stock.

What would be in your Top 10 Mods for the 370Z? I listed mine... what would you swap out for yours? Afterwards... I actually regreted leaving out tyres... But is that really a mod? (I think it is) If nothing else, I hope you enjoy...

I doubt there will be any bulbs in there: they will likely be led's, which won't be a 'service' item but should outlive the car!

If you've dextrose fingers and/or long nosed pliers, you may be able to unclip each coil pack clip in turn

Hi, yes I did - should have said that's where I got the 'random / multiple misfire' - P0300. It didn't flag any particular cylinder. Rather than removing various parts off the top to get at the coilpacks, is there somewhere at the other end of each loom where they all meet and can be unplugged one at a time? I've struggled to find a diagram of for this so don't know where to look.

Have you scanned it for any codes? That's where I'd start. Probably a coil pack.

@ZMANALEX

I didnt watch the whole thing but the main points. Thought id post it here. Instead of hijacking the adjacent thread. My mate reckons the Emira will drop further to used 4.0 Cayman GTS territory. I dont think theyll go below mid 50s at best by next summer. I saw a video of the Emira in shadow grey. It does look even better!

Looks clean

I'm looking for the top trim that sits at the top of the internal door card (Drivers side) i can't find a part number but on the parts list it does seem to suggest it comes off. Mine is all bent out of shape after a lock related problem. It's number three from the image in the top right, needs to be straight without kinks.

Hi community. I recently developed a misfire after a routine battery replacement. 2004 350z GT (UK). Hadn't driven the car for a while due to bad weather, and dropped in a battery, identical new replacement for my old one. The first time I drove, after about 5 mins I slowed for some traffic lights and when nearly stopped the car tried to stall. I caught it, but then the amber engine warning light came on and I had a fairly consistent misfire. This persisted then one next drive. Following that I went to start it and had zero juice - the battery terminals were not properly connected and had slipped. Reconnected, started and the same misfire. I've read the posts about checking vacuum hoses and coil packs, which I will do. Just wondering if anyone thinks or knows whether it could be because of an electrical supply issue following the battery change? This is the only change, and the car has always been serviced and run sweet as a nut until now. Many thanks for your advice.

So are the indicators and lights on the RH lever in a JDM car?

Had a bit of work done on my new whip.... https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6osOaXtGDL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

All standard other than the front lip and rear spoiler. Pearl white with sakhir interior, 1 owner from new with full dealer history, 66k miles

Tasty! Any details?

….in with the new

Ah, that makes sense, thank you for info

83k Euros...Deluded...guys trying to make 30k+ on each car in Germany. Get out of here! Lol..