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Currently sitting 17mm front, 15mm rear.

Basically want something that I feel confident in when driving, currently feel like I'm on marshmallows at the moment, but if the shocks are definitely gone then anything will be better. Don't want a massive drop, had 1k in mind, but if it means a bit more saving to get it right I'd rather fo that than dump a grand on something that feels inadequate on the road.

What is your current goal? main reason I don’t generally tend to advise springs on Oem dampers is that people often go too crazy and more often that not the old dampeners aren’t capable of holding up and usually end up needing replacement sooner. I believe usually you’ll find Oem dampers are capable of a 20mm drop without an issue, some aftermarket shockers actually say they are compatible with lowering springs- the main thing you need to do is figure out your budget and why you are going down this road- much easier to narrow down your options - I had hsd true mono pros on mine and thought the value for money was good, I have had cabin the past and had issues with their setups

Happy with current drop from the Teins at the moment though, would I have to go lower with the KW V3's?

Think it was on the US forum? Something about the 350z was always meant to run on shocks and springs and never coilovers and that uprated shocks/springs are a better option unless you're paying for High end custom coilovers. So much information was making my head spin in the end, so thought I'd pose the question on here.

Already have whiteline arbs and droplinks mate.

I'll get budgeting for the kwv3's then if that's the case.

As an option, i found that running full OEM suspension with uprated ARBs gave an excellent compromise between good road manners with improved road holding. Well worth considering if compliancy is a major concern.

Whoever told you springs and Oem shocks are better than midrange coilovers probably didn’t know what they’re talking about, with the weight of the Z not really being on its side it’s fair to consider that updating the suspension will change the car drastically- it all depends on your budget and application- 800+ is where I’d roughly say the lower limit is for these cars and dependant on the manufacturer ie meister, hsd, teon, yellow speed brc are all in this price range- do your research and compare to what you think you can afford

Actually stuff like Ohlins and the higher KW stuff is better for road usage as it’s better quality and properly damped: the budget stuff will always be crashier on the road (and I say that as someone who’s run BCs before!). Matching sets would be the way to go, and if budget allows then I’d go KW probably over BC/Tein etc. Bilstein top stuff is good too.

I appreciate that this is a topic that's been done to death, but could really do with some feedback before I splash more cash out. Currently running Tein springs with standard shocks with tarmacsportz rear camber arms which were fitted in January, whiteline arbs and droplinks fitted as well. Alignment was done at the same time. Car now is ridiculous bouncy on motorway and getting knocking from rear, guessing my shocks have gone now. I've researched this a bit now, but can't decide whether to get bilstein b6 shocks to go with the tein springs or go coilovers? I've read some people saying that a decent spring and shocks setup is better than any midrange coilovers on the 350z, but I know people run BC's and are very happy with them. I know Ohlins and kwv3's are quality as well, but thought that might be a bit extreme for just road use. I know all opinions are subjective but would really appreciate some help in which direction to go in, before I make an expensive mistake.

Hello Ollie, is this still available?

Hello, I would love to be added to the list! I got mine about 5 months ago. I am 132 Quartz.

True. The Conti's are the much prettier tire after all!!!

No mention of the Nismo's big brake kit over the lower models, for shame. Very poor decision to have gone with the Dunlop rubbers, needed to be the Conti SC7, would have transformed the car as the tester wasn't best pleased with them.

1. andy James AJ07 ZZZ Paid 2. Stevenholtmufc S24 DWV Paid 3. Buster V80BSV Paid 4. Humpy - VO10UZA Paid 5. Spicknuts: D17 NGG (Paid) 6. Kayleigh - K23 XCC (paid) 7. SHEZZA - B9 MAS (paid) 8. Rhysos - R23MYR (paid) 9. Jamah_zed - EY54 XPK (Paid) 10.SW66TTT - CS Z370 (paid) 11. Terence - T26RYS (paid) 12. Steven.b - HS04SVN (paid) 13. Olly350z - N70OJW (paid) 14. Andy_Muxlow - A20MUX (paid)

Well done fella, all sorted 😁 values all reset to factory spec

I felt like a monkey, pressing random keys on a type writer, but it seems to have worked. Idle has now dropped from 950rpm to 750rpm. Not sure if that's right but it's better then it was.

https://www.slashgear.com/1568983/2024-nissian-z-nismo-review-fast-0-to-60-speed-driving-experience-details/

So it moves itself during the process and you need to hear the sound of it to know it worked?

1. andy James AJ07 ZZZ Paid 2. Stevenholtmufc S24 DWV Paid 3. Buster V80BSV Paid 4. Humpy - VO10UZA Paid 5. Spicknuts: D17 NGG (Paid) 6. Kayleigh - K23 XCC (paid) 7. SHEZZA - B9 MAS (paid) 8. Rhysos - R23MYR (paid) 9. Jamah_zed - EY54 XPK (Paid) 10.SW66TTT - CS Z370 (paid) 11. Terence - T26RYS (paid) 12. Steven.b - HS04SVN (paid) 13. Olly350z - N70OJW (paid)

Hot damn that’s some brake porn there! ❤️

Forgot to update this thread, new set being shipped out today to our customer in Crete. 350z TORQEN Big Brake Kit MODEL: TORQEN XL Colour: colour_anodized_17 Rotor Type: Slotted & Drilled Rotor Style: Floating discs Pads: Fast Road Front: 8 Pot 356x32mm - 19" or more Rear: 6 Pot 330x28mm - 17" or more

I just used plenty of carb cleaner. I opened the throttle body & gave the whole inside a good clean, along with the edge of the butterfly valve, then do the resets, that may take you numerous attempts as they can be tricky.

It's just means moving the throttle butterfly. Pedal dance for idle speed reset will sort you right out *carried out on warm engine