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Hi, hope we are all doing well. I picked up a 2010 370z Roadster GT with 30k miles late last year, not really had chance to ran it until now. It was completely standard aside from an axle back split exhaust of unknown make. I wanted a Nismo spec, but I really wanted be a convertible for summer road trips and occasional track use, so I got the roadster and have done a few tweaks. Mapped it to around 350 bhp, Z1 cold air intakes, DBA T3 rotors, Ferodo DS2500 pads, Hel SS brake lines, Moto RBF600 Fluid, Whiteline F/R ARB, JR 25mm spacers all round, Maxton front splitter, Maxton rear Defuser and a got a Roadster spoiler from the US and had it painted here. (And a bit of engine bay detailing as was bored as I serviced it and replaced the serpentine belt during the winter ). Kept the std; wheels, calipers and suspension as they all look/work fine. (And I have stored every last standard bit taken off for the purists). I've just come back from a trip to the Nürburgring and the car did not miss a beat. It looks great, handles great, sounds great but it is still comfortable enough for 8 hour drives on the way there. Loving it!!! A few things I've spotted. 1. Oil Temperature got up to 120c after a couple of laps so want to look at an oil cooler. Anyone got a make/Model they use and recommend? 2. The Sat Nav is way out of date and the reversing camera was not ticked as an option. And I can't see the screen in sunshine with the top down. Anyone fitted an aftermarket system the can recommend with DAB, Apple Play... also want to add a reversing camera? 3. Any recommendations for a replacement exhaust? Road legal, extra power and better sound without breaking the bank. Not looked into this in any detail yet, it may be a winter job. You guys have already helped me as I ran a pre Ring shakedown at Cadwell after replacing the brakes and had the ESP, TC warning lights on and off all the time. Looked at the posts and it was the brake fluid not on the max mark when driving hard, who would have guessed that? And a member helped where to source the right Roadster spoiler which I much appreciate. Looking forward to participating.

Ahaha that would be a really weird question at the border control post 🤣🤣

Did you ask why it's been sitting for 4 years? What's the story? Might give some pointers to how keen they are to sell. It's not appreciating sitting outside rotting, delusional if they think it is.

I bet you get asked all the time what's it like sticking your arm up a cows backside 😂

I am the relief official veterinarian in the area, there is no vet to cover me unfortunately 🤣

Pull a sickie 😂

I have a shift at Southampton starting 12:00. I hate my life...

Yes I am up for that buddy 😁

That's my thoughts, Im thinking its value is in the 15k mark, and thats not allowing for something unexpected. I cant get this car out of my head as I know if I can get my hands on it I can get it back into shape and make it something personal that iv put my sweat and tears into. I tend to hold onto bikes and cars for a long time so something like the nismo does do it for me.

Talk about Wax Lyrical lol

Yeah youre looking at the cost of a runaround to get it back to condition. Your overall spend including cost to buy should be in the 20k region. If you did need to sell you wont lose too much as thats what they tend to go for

There is a JDM theme breakfast club at Haynes Motor Museum near Yeovil on 2nd August, if anyone is up for it we could plan a Southern meet? The breakfast clubs there often get several hundred cars, and the museum is interesting.

Yes mate

Evening all. after a bank holiday break down I'm in need of a fuel pump for my HR. Is @ZMANALEXstill the man that can acquire things? Thanks, Hayden.

Welcome along - you can be a member and not own a Z

Hey everyone 👋 Just gonna say right off the bat — I don’t own a 350Z or 370Z, so if that breaks the rules of your community, I apologize. Feel free to ban me if needed. Now, onto my questions. I’ve searched all over the internet, but couldn’t find any clear answers, so I decided to just ask directly. I’m planning to put a VQ35DE engine into my Toyota Mark II. I’m not considering the HR or DET versions simply because I really love the look of the DE’s intake — yeah, I’m choosing an engine based on aesthetics. With a tight budget in mind, I’m looking at the VQ35DE from an Elgrand(≈⅔ price of vq35de 350z). Its 240 hp is fine for me, plus they come with an automatic transmission already set up for RWD. The only thing I don’t like is the look of the intake manifold. Can I swap in a manifold from a 350Z? And what kind of modifications would that need? Also, for those who know these engines well — what would you recommend for the swap? I know I’ll need to disable NATS, but is there anything else I should be aware of upfront?

That's my thoughts exactly, id think it would need a bloody good going over indeed,new tyres new battery brake pads and disks, all fluids ( with high quality oils) and realignment, a deep clean top to bottom etc

Even though its been outside it just needs running in again. Get it cleaned up probably change that steering wheel loads of those for sale or retrim. Change discs and tyres (£2000). Full Service including gearbox and tranny (700 or so) and away you go. 16k max because you can get higher miles 2015 facelift for as low as that in Winter. 20k gets a lower mileage. People selling 2017 onwards Nismos at 26-30k with average miles are delusional. Theyre not fast sellers Its a Japanese car not a German. Ive ran a Civic in the early days with literally no oil lol. Opened it up at 160,000 miles car was clocked. Cleanest internals the mechanic has ever seen.

Nissan being shown up by Renault. They should part ways and let Nissan stand on their own. Again a used Alpine is better buy than that Z. Why pay 70k when you can buy a GTR facelift. Or import a 2025 Nismo at 45k or a base model at 30k. Nissan will make money on Nostalgia by producing parts for Skylines. Better to stick to that. Then milk this same Z till 2030. Manual Nismo is here. Lets see if the American talkers actually buy it. Check the sales numbers in 12 months. What happened to the press conferences where they said they would refresh models every 4 years? The RZ34 is 5 years old now Lol

Check out @buster he has them on his car and his wifes vert. they look great.

The Tesla screen comes with (I think its called) a ground loop interrupter for fitting with Bose sytems.

Beautiful day for the Roadster 🤍

Quick drive around Ambergate, Matlock Bath and Matlock. Grey 370 in Ambergate waved and beeped, nearly missed it.. and then parked in The Hurt Arms at Ambergate and a lovely white 18 plate Nismo parked a space or 2 away.

I'll keep it simple and probably shoot straight up the M5 to Brizzle and M4

I thought I'd update this thread just to share a problem I experienced with static/white noise through the stock Bose amp and stock Bose speakers after I followed this guide to modify the appropriate ISO harnesses/looms (to replace my Bose headunit with a Pioneer SPH-DA250DAB in my 350z) and the solution that I have found, in the hope it helps someone else out. Unfortunately, after fitting my Pioneer SPH-DA250DAB headunit back in 2020, I had what I can only describe as a constant and non-fluctuating static/white noise from each speaker in the car, even with the volume muted/turned all the way down and the engine off. This occurred on all audio sources but was more noticeable when launching and using Android Auto, presumably because the software on my Pioneer headunit was configured to further increase the output volume when using Android Auto. After investigating and researching this issue in an effort to try to get to the bottom of it once and for all, it dawned on me. When following the guide to use the speaker outputs instead of the RCA preouts on our aftermarket headunit, we are essentially connecting the high-level (amplified) speaker output of the aftermarket headunit to the low-level input of the stock Bose amp, which is typically fed a low-level (non-amplified) input. Whilst this configuration forces the aftermarket headunit and the stock Bose amp to amplify the output to the speakers (which results in a much needed volume increase, compared to volume across the RCA preouts) in my case this configuration seemed to result in static/white noise from each Bose speaker, which I suspected was due to excessive gain levels, which in my case could not be reduced via the Pioneer headunit or the stock Bose amp. Armed with this new information and determined to find a solution, I found that many others have experienced similar issues when installing aftermarket headunits into different vehicles with stock Bose systems, and that the solution to this is to purchase and fit a line output converter (LOC). So, that's what I did. I purchased a Scosche Oea4 4-Channel Adjustable Amplifier Interface from Amazon for £15, cut and soldered the speaker output cables on the brown harness (which was taken from the Autoleads PC2-76-4 adapter) to the input side speaker cables of the Scosche Oea4, then soldered the output side speaker cables of the Scosche Oea4 to the speaker cables that were created by following this guide. Essentially, you'll end up with a Scosche Oea4 (or whichever LOC you prefer and purchase) situated in-between the brown speaker connector in the blue circle below (taken from the Autoleads PC2-76-4 adapter) and the sections of cable with heatshrink just above it (where you cut and joined the speaker cable to the dissected RCA cables previously, when following this guide). Excuse the hastily edited photo (courtesy of cs2000) below, but hopefully it makes it clear. The Scosche Oea4 then allows you to manually fine decrease/fine tune the gain on each channel using a screwdriver to adjust and VOILA... no more static/white noise, all whilst maintaining decent volume output! 😁 Hopefully this helps anyone else with this issue and credit to @buster for the modification. It just needed a little fine tuning in my case!