RobPhoboS Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) My car is off to Sly hopefully in the first part of Feb, and it's on the list of things to look at. But I thought I'd just ask on here anyway out of curiosity. When my car had new brakes/lines/fluid installed at Eurospec, they told me it was a nightmare bleeding the system, and that it may have something to do with ABS (said it wasn't dangerous, and I've not noticed anything odd). I know it's not much to go off but has anyone had some kind of sensor or actuator when broken that would cause an issue ? Cheers ! Edited February 27, 2015 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jp606 Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) They need to be bled in a specific order, which is different to 'normal' cars. What exactly did they struggle with? How are the brakes now, spongey? NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF and inner nipples first, then outer. Always take the Z to a specialist that knows what they're doing Edited January 25, 2015 by Jp606 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Yes, definitely spongey feeling. I'll ask if Sly can bleed and test them, as the braking quality is excellent with a double tap but not quite so confidence inspiring without doing that. Great to know there is a specific way to do it, and yes, I won't be taking it to Eurospec again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jp606 Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Yeah sounds like there is still air in the system, they may have run the reservoir dry too which introduces a load of air into the system, which takes time to get out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillywig2 Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF and inner nipples first, then outer. As mentioned ^, did they use both of the nipples on the front caliper? Edited January 27, 2015 by gillywig2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF and inner nipples first, then outer. As mentioned ^, did they use both of the nipples on the front caliper? I've no idea what they did I'm guessing they just don't know these cars particularly well (thus won't ever go back there). I'll feed this info back to Sly at Kaizer that it probably just wasn't bled properly, so if possible to do that and see how it feels Once it comes back I'll report back here if that was it, hopefully it's the case of that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
embrace Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) They need to be bled in a specific order, which is different to 'normal' cars. What exactly did they struggle with? How are the brakes now, spongey? NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF and inner nipples first, then outer. Always take the Z to a specialist that knows what they're doing Do the brembos have two bleed nipples aswell or are you talking about the standard calipers? Tah Edited January 27, 2015 by embrace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 They need to be bled in a specific order, which is different to 'normal' cars. What exactly did they struggle with? How are the brakes now, spongey? NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF and inner nipples first, then outer. Always take the Z to a specialist that knows what they're doing Do the brembos have two bleed nipples aswell or are you talking about the standard calipers? Tah Brembos most certainly DO have 2 nipples on each caliper on all 4 corners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
embrace Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 ah reet, cheers for that. i must admit ive not tackled a fluid swap yet but have only noticed the one on the outside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 Well just a follow up on this. Sly said there was barely any trapped air in the system but it's been bled properly and was noticed last week that there was a small leak on the rear offside. So today it was discovered that the actual stainless steel pipe flare/end was damaged, which explained the leak. So for now, just an OEM line back on instead of the Hosetechnik one (due to how they are attached). The spongy feeling I'm getting was totally eradicated initially by adjusting the pedal but unfortunately the pads were binding, so he adjusted them a few more times but they still feeling spongy. The stopping power is ridiculous once they dig in but it's that initial travel which is peeing me off ! So I'll try to finely adjust the pedal first of all but the only other 2 things are possibly new master cylinder (or repair kit?), or even pads but I know the pads were fierce if I can set it just right. Anyway, grumble grumble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 ah reet, cheers for that. i must admit ive not tackled a fluid swap yet but have only noticed the one on the outsideWhen I had my calipers swapped at TGM in Fleet, Tom told me it was almost impossible to bleed them properly without 2 people, that's exactly what they did and they have been spot on ever since. I know Keyser has done few so it would be interesting to hear what he thinks. Sent from my Zed using Nangkang tyres front, RE040's rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Just in case anyone is wondering how to adjust their pedal before fiddling around under there: 14mm spanner Pair of pliers (& maybe a little bit of rag so you don't damage the thread) Just by looking at it, if you reduce the visible thread in the clevis bit, that'll stiffen the pedal but you MUST be careful as done too much the brakes will bind, and you'll cause a big stink. Page 7 in the BR pdf manual: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2004_Coupe+Roadster/BR.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 +1 Don't think this has anything to do with ABS. You must likely still have some air high up the system. Also check you brake vacuum hose from the plenum to the booster that there is no damage or that the one way valve works. If you have replaced this hose with an aftermarket hose make sure you installed the one way valve as without this you can experience similar issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 +1 Don't think this has anything to do with ABS. Yep, that was just the previous place (Eurospec) which suggested that, however it turns out they either didn't bleed it in the correct order, and that they did this to my rear offside brake pipe when installing the Hosetechnik probably didn't help: 'Need' one of these now: http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?reltype=2&parent_id=50692 I'll check the brake vacuum hose as well mate JUST in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 This is what you need for on car work. http://www.ciponline.co.uk/vehicle-service-c2917/braking-c2962/on-vehicle-brake-flaring-tool-p35505/s37156?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=sealey-on-vehicle-brake-flaring-tool-14143&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) This is what you need for on car work. http://www.ciponline...uct+listing+ads Ah nice find there Alex (works with stainless steel ? - emailed them) Edited February 27, 2015 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Kunifer is what you need, not SS. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Hey chaps, I saw the vacuum hose that goes from the upper plenum to the booster but I couldn't see where the other one is. The condition of the pipe looks good, no visible issues at all, and it's connected properly. To check it's valve, is it just a case of blowing/sucking on the pipe (I was just googling to see how you can check them) ? Lastly, I've always wanted to have my own kit to bleed brakes, useful for me, family etc Would this Sealey VS820 one be ok? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS820-Clutch-Bleeding-System/dp/B000ROARTI It states for a 42mm diameter cap, I'll try and measure it in a moment. Lastly - whilst I was searching around I've always wondered what the hell these two are with L and H on them ? (assumed something to do with AC) (excuse the mess ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Yes about the valve. Yes about the AC service ports high and low pressure and the brake bleeder is awesome. I just make do with the El cheapo ezibleed from halfrauds which I've had for years and does the job. And you don't need a second pair of hands just like this one. But fair play if you get this professional kit as the discount is massive👀. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Cheers for confirming all of that mate Ah yes, I've seen that Ezibleed one as well, just wasn't sure if the cap fits as well (although both companies sell a universal one it seems), and I guess if you don't have a spare tyre around the other one is handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Last question for now, where is that second vacuum hose - I can see the main one when looking at the engine on the left but can't spot the other ! I know that the system has been bled already but I swear there is some stubborn bubbles somewhere, possibly trapped in the caliper piston bores (I'll try the method for removing them and turning them etc). ie: like this sort of thing: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 This is what you need for on car work. http://www.ciponline...uct+listing+ads I've contacted a friend that may be able to help me, it seems like the main problem is that the SS pipe still requires a flare on it for the adjoining Kunifer bits to be spliced on ? (that's what a couple are saying at least) In regards to that product, I did get a reply back from Sealey about that tool, it won't work on SS unfortunately but will on the Kunifer stuff. However I did find this which DOES work on SS in-situ as well: This: http://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/braking-tools/pipe-flaring-tools/68 http://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/braking-tools/pipe-flaring-tools/584 (less the accessories) + this upgrade which states for SS: http://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/braking-tools/pipe-flaring-tools/66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) Just thought I'd update this. I've replaced all of the brake bleed valves and dust covers, then of course bled the brakes again with a friend (haven't bought a power bleeder just yet!). This has slightly improved the feel, and I did notice a couple of bubbles come out, and I tapped the calipers with my new (stinky) dead blow hammer to help out. I went around a couple of times, gently topped up the fluid so as not to get any air in that end. Of course whilst we did this the pedal felt amazing, then once the car was on the feeling was lost. I did make a minute adjustment to the pedal, which helped out. I'm wondering if there is still some bubbles trapped in the calipers or even the master cylinder, which perhaps the power bleeder may help for that Sealey VS820 & VS820UA bought (plus a new master cylinder cap if the universal adapter doesn't work) Hopefully it's just a case of needing to be bled a few times. Edited March 11, 2015 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 The Sealey VS820 (v4) & VS820UA (v3) arrived today I've read through many, many threads on the states version which is the Motive Power Bleeder, and got some extra tips to test out. I'll report back at some point on Saturday as to what I think of this product (will do a separate thread) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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