planetsurfer2 Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 I need bigger brakes for the Z. I keep boiling the brake fluid at track days. Obviously I'm a crap driver that needs to brake too much. What would the panel recommend as replacment brakes for my Brebo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grundy Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 (edited) Hope your pockets are deep Are you using the correct Brake Fluid? Have you got uprated pads? Have you got uprated discs? Have you got braided brake lines? Edited October 2, 2014 by grundy225 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Are you locking the brakes often on track? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planetsurfer2 Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 Not deep but functional. :-) Yup. DBA 5000 and Performance Friction, yup. Looking at AP racing as recommended by Ewen at Clark Motorsport. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grundy Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Are you running crazy power? I just can't see the need for bigger brakes, Maybe look into your braking methods on track? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planetsurfer2 Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 Are you locking the brakes often on track? Not at all. I've been to SPA and KNOCKHILL recently and haven't locked the brakes. Haven't disabled the YAW sensor yet, so the brakes come on automagically when cornering really hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 For about half the price of AP Racing you can get K Sport, D2 or even PB brakes which are highly customisable. Unsure the AP's are slightly better, but twice the price better? I don't think so. When I had the zed and was thinking about a BBK, I was looking at PB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planetsurfer2 Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 Are you running crazy power? I just can't see the need for bigger brakes, Maybe look into your braking methods on track? Running 415BHP 375 ft/lb torque. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grundy Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Are you running crazy power? I just can't see the need for bigger brakes, Maybe look into your braking methods on track? Running 415BHP 375 ft/lb torque. Ah That explains it then - Bigger brakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 What fluid are you using? Anything less than 5.1 on track is a waste of time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planetsurfer2 Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 What fluid are you using? Anything less than 5.1 on track is a waste of time Was using Motuol 600 currently using millers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Are you locking the brakes often on track? Not at all. I've been to SPA and KNOCKHILL recently and haven't locked the brakes. Haven't disabled the YAW sensor yet, so the brakes come on automagically when cornering really hard. This would be my next move...the std ABS/traction/stability control is way too fond of chipping in all the time when pushed, disabling it will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 What fluid are you using? Anything less than 5.1 on track is a waste of time Was using Motuol 600 currently using millers Isn't Motul 600 only dot 4? Maybe try moving up to dot5.1 which significantly raises the boiling temperature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewen@Clark Motorsport Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Thats a good shout by Tricky Ricky would be worth a try, Knockhill though is seriously hard on brakes, it has two big braking zones and very little time for them to cool. The Touring Car boys switch compounds when coming going up there, we have tried different compounds that work at other circuits but not Knockhill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewen@Clark Motorsport Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 For about half the price of AP Racing you can get K Sport, D2 or even PB brakes which are highly customisable. Unsure the AP's are slightly better, but twice the price better? I don't think so. When I had the zed and was thinking about a BBK, I was looking at PB. The cheap kits are ok for what you pay but are not in the same league as the AP kits, I have seen issues with the K Sport calipers on cars used purely on track. It all depends what the cars used for and where. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 For about half the price of AP Racing you can get K Sport, D2 or even PB brakes which are highly customisable. Unsure the AP's are slightly better, but twice the price better? I don't think so. When I had the zed and was thinking about a BBK, I was looking at PB. The cheap kits are ok for what you pay but are not in the same league as the AP kits, I have seen issues with the K Sport calipers on cars used purely on track. It all depends what the cars used for and where. I've heard that the ksport calipers don't like high heat too, something to do with brake bind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted October 2, 2014 Share Posted October 2, 2014 Nothing wrong with ksports from a functionality point of view. Ive had mine for 5yrs and has never ceased to amaze me how much value for money they were! Its covered about or over 500 Ring laps and numerous uk trackdays and +60k fast road/DD use. I still have the original rear disk and have changed fronts on average every 18months. To put in perspective how good they are is i can do +5 back to back hot laps in the Ring without fade and my only reason to come in is tyres going off with overheating. Similarly i do 6-10laps at bedford GT fade free. Yes the anodizing has faded and the bolts, brake pad retainer have surface corroded but its all there. I got everything blasted and painted easily myself. The other strong point is that ksport pistons never seem to fail! The key is getting the right pad for your application, refresh dot 5.1 fluid after winter and good braking technique. Ive used exclusively performance friction 01 pads until early this year i swapped to pagids RS15 which are similar on track but slight inferior for DD as they require more heat to perform but they are still better than any OEM set up and half price on PF 01. When they die i will go for pagids RS29s which have better endurance. With poor technique you will boil or overheat any brakes setup! This is the biggest issue and often overlooked. TBH the OEM set up with race pads, 5.1 fluid, braided lines and good technique will be up to the job on any track only difference with be heat endurance as they are a smaller heat sink but you can mitigate this by shorter stints on track to allow cooling. The hidden side of BBKs is maintenance cost for consumables. Its about £1k each time you replace disks, fluid and pads excluding labour if you are not mechanically incline. My advice is if you only do track a few times a year then stay OEM and upgrade the weak points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 The ART automotive's on here are awesome and look bloody amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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