The ilogikal1 test thread

[ilogikal1]

I will submit this feedback to Slick Rims and update with any comments they care to make, in the mean time I'll give it the benefit of the doubt for now and see how it goes from here.

 

Slick Rims have got back to me. They claim never to have seen anything like this before, they can't explain it either. They did suggest trying fallout remover, but as I've scrubbed it off already it's a bit late for that. I might throw some at one wheel anyway and see how/if it reacts. Also an excuse to test out how the coating behaves with chemicals.

 

Someone else however did report that they've had a similar problem with Slick Rims and suggested it's the coating reacting to brake dust. Whilst possible, this also seems unlikely given how the "reaction" is limited to specific areas on any given wheel, if it was a brake dust reaction I would expect it to occur over the entire wheel to some degree - although it could be coming specifically and directly from the caliper come to think of it. Anyway, this will be easy to test as it should reappear the next time I drive the car, which is a good excuse for a hoon.

[Stutopia]

I'd think brake dust fits (especially as the ferrodos are known dusters) as it would hit the barrel in a very clear line/circle (as per the pics) as the disc spins and centrifugal force throws it off outward?

[ilogikal1]

Seeing as the brake dust theory has only been poo-pooed (sorry, been watching Blackadder) by me, I got impatient and conducted a *ahem* "scientific test"... or in other words I dicked about a bit today.

 

First off, before the car moved at all since its wash, I attacked one wheel with two fallout removers.

 

Auto Finesse Iron Out thought about it for a while;

 

 

 

Whilst Car Chem Revolt did this;

 

 

 

 

So... er, yeah, that's a lot of fallout for a wheel that was fully decontaminated and sealed two weeks prior.

 

The wheel was rinsed and left to dry fully in the sun. Then I went for a drive, which was ~7% the mileage of last time; I was sure to include a mixture of heavy, light and "normal" braking (because scientific, don't you know). Upon returning to the homestead, I immediately checked (and photographed) the state of the wheels.

 

Slick Rims.

 

Slick Rims.

 

Slick Rims.

 

Not Slick Rims.

 

So there you have it. A wheel sealant that doesn't play well with brake dust. Useful.

 

Considering this is before another wash, I spent a bit of time looking closely for any marks on the HubiRims. This was the extent of it;

 

 

Whereas on the Slick Rims wheels, I found it a bit easier to find anything...

 

 

 

 

 

And yes, it bled again (after a couple of hours to allow everything to cool off first).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You get the idea. One of those was the same wheel that bled this morning too for what it's worth.

Edited April 18, 2015 by ilogikal1

[roscopervis]

That's one to strike off the list.

[GIXXERUK]

quick question which I haven't seen covered, have you found any microfibre cloth's are better than others ? I know you can get the extra plush fluffy micro's but have you noticed that they give a better or easier result ?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[ilogikal1]

In terms of brands, not really no. There are obviously some that are kinder to the paint than others - the cheap Amazon Basics ones for example are fine for dirty jobs and priced as disposable items, but they're too harsh for paintwork. The Polished Bliss cloths are much kinder for the paintwork, but more expensive so not really disposable.

 

Generally I try to use the deepest pile cloths that will get the job done, so it's a bit of trial and error with new products but as a general rule of thumb for easiest use;

 

I find for removing cured products (like waxes for example) a shorter pile is better as it has more bite to break through the product - I tend to use these for such jobs, they're soft enough not to cause any marring but have enough bite to lift cured products.

 

For 'wipe on/wipe off' or 'wipe on/walk away' products I prefer to use the softest, deepest pile cloth I have available - that's almost always one side of the orange dual pile Waxybox cloths or one of these super-plush jobbies.

 

Coatings tend to come with their own applicators, but micro suede tends to be best for applying and again I usually reach for the Waxybox dual pile cloths for buffing.

 

Glass is just anything to hand with a bit of pile but doesn't lint at all to clean then a final buff with a specific glass cloth like these to shine/remove any streaks.

 

 

Does that help at all?

[GIXXERUK]

much appreciated

 

I usually use a short pile to remove and then a buff with a fluffier micro but i'm not sure it makes any difference tbh, will check out those links

[ilogikal1]

No problem

 

If I could get away with it, I'd use the plusher cloths for everything. They are great for buffing but just don't have the bite for lifting some cured products though, sadly.

[ilogikal1]

As I have a job interview on Monday, I've been busy preparing... by washing the Z. A bit of a Slick Rims update follows.

 

First up, I washed the HubiRims wheels using just Cleanmax, Wheel Woolies and a detailing brush to get it spotless (excuse the pun) again. That currently beads like this;

 

 

 

 

Then came the one Slick Rims wheel that hasn't been attacked with anything different to the HubiRims wheel so again this was just with Cleanmax, Woolies and detailing brush - whilst not quite a spotless clean the staining wasn't as problematic this time, but I'll come back to that later.

 

 

 

 

Next up was the wheel that's been attacked with fallout remover twice already. With this one, as the rear tyres are getting changed tomorrow, I decided to try out a wheel cleaner as well as the shampoo wash - in this case it was Auto Finesse Imperial at 5:1, which is midway between the recommended 2:1 for strong cleaning and 10:1 for light and makes it slightly alkaline. That did this to the beading;

 

 

 

Except to the centre cap, bizarrely;

 

 

And this isn't dry by the way...

 

 

It is spotless though.

 

The final wheel then, the one that's been attacked with fallout remover just once. I washed it with Cleanmax, Woolies and brush as the others, then sprayed half with Imperial, agitated and rinsed off. Let's see if anyone can identify which part is which...

 

 

 

 

 

 

An attempt at some 50/50 shots.

 

 

One spoke cleaned with Imperial, one not.

 

 

 

 

So, a few things to note;

Firstly, wheel cleaners. I was aware that coatings don't play well with alkaline products, for the most part they simply reduce the durability of the coating a bit but in this case it appears to remove the product altogether (or at the very least significantly reduce the effectiveness). This isn't exactly a failing coating either, it's still very early on in it's supposed lifespan. However it's fair to advise that if you do use Slick Rims, don't use alkaline wheel cleaners!

Although Imperial did lift the staining (as well as the coating!), so there's that. Except, it seems, it didn't remove it from the plastic centre cap, just from the painted wheel... maybe there's a re-branding opportunity there; Slick Rims Plastic/Trim Sealant (if I had any left, I'd actually try it on some trim now, just for lolz).

 

The staining. It could be a one off anomaly, it could be time or distance between cleans related (by which I mean that the wheel will subjected to higher temperatures for longer rather than simply covering x amount of miles) or something else that I've not even considered yet however this time, with fewer miles covered, the staining wasn't as stubborn this clean as it was last time - the vast majority of it washed off without any scrubbing this time. This can (in part) be tested though, as that job interview I mentioned earlier is in London, so I'll be repeating the same journey as last time again next week.

Also, with one wheel now being only half coated, I'll be able to tell absolutely whether the problem is caused (or at least exasperated) by Slick Rims. This may also provide a nice contrast with the Slick Rims and brake dust issues that I've been having.

 

Tune in next week for the next exciting episode.

[GIXXERUK]

good luck for monday

[Grundy]

Just a random question, need to wash my M/F Cloths, - Any certain temp on the washing machine etc?

[ilogikal1]

good luck for monday

 

Cheers Paul.

 

 

Just a random question, need to wash my M/F Cloths, - Any certain temp on the washing machine etc?

 

Heat kills them, so as low as possible really - 30C ideally but 40C would be okay too - and it's best not to tumble dry them either (although if you must, a low setting is better). Use liquid detergent in the washing machine rather than powders as powder will clog up the cloths, and don't use any fabric softener at all.

 

If your cloths are bit worse for wear, you can usually revive them with either a bit of white vinegar in the machine or a dedicated microfibre detergent if you feel like splashing out... and yes, that was a terrible pun.

[roscopervis]

good luck for monday

 

Cheers Paul.

 

 

Just a random question, need to wash my M/F Cloths, - Any certain temp on the washing machine etc?

 

Heat kills them, so as low as possible really - 30C ideally but 40C would be okay too - and it's best not to tumble dry them either (although if you must, a low setting is better). Use liquid detergent in the washing machine rather than powders as powder will clog up the cloths, and don't use any fabric softener at all.

 

If your cloths are bit worse for wear, you can usually revive them with either a bit of white vinegar in the machine or a dedicated microfibre detergent if you feel like splashing out... and yes, that was a terrible pun.

 

One other thing I've learnt with microfibre cloths, particularly if you want to avoid any micro marring, is to never use them dry. Whatever you are using them for, keep them damp, either with a cheap and dilute quick detailer or just clean water. It makes any microfibre kinder to the paint.

 

Oh, and good luck illogikal1!

[ilogikal1]

Cheers Rosco

[ilogikal1]

Another week, another 450(ish) miles and another wash, so it must be time for another update. Unsurprisingly there is a wheel sealant update, but seeing as that has largely taken over this lot of LSPs despite not actually being the focus here I'll leave that for later. Instead, here's some sealant stuff.

 

The weatherman told me (well, the whole region really, not just me) that today consisted of rain all morning followed by sunshine all afternoon. Heeding this warning, I washed the car this morning whilst it didn't rain at all and then took photos this afternoon... after it had rained for most of said afternoon. Close but no cigar weatherman! Also, having literally just finished washing the car, the postman delivered this months Waxybox. Seriously, it's like these complete strangers have no regard for my car washing plans!

The usual routine was followed; snow foam applied and allowed to dwell, rinsed, 2 bucket wash with Nanolex Pure shampoo and rinse again. These are actual, real, natural, not-at-all-simulated beads from the rain that didn't happen when it was supposed to. Before the pictures though, have some more words.

 

There didn't seem to be any noticeable difference in the sealants in terms of self cleaning still, each section of the bonnet was just as dirty as the others - although, perhaps unsurprisingly, the coatings were noticeably cleaner (it did rain at least once after each journey which probably helped wash those sections) - so in that sense all three of the sealants are remarkably similar. I mention this because FK makes a big point of being "anti-static", and thus repels dust... no more so than the others, it seems.

 

The snow foam acted the same way on the bonnet as before in that Skin sheeted the foam less than all the others, however when it came to rinsing Skin was sheeting the water much faster than EX-P or FK. After the wash, by the time the Skin section was done sheeting, the EX-P section was ~25% wet still whilst FK was ~50% wet - for those keeping score by the time EX-P was dry, FK was ~20% wet still. I did notice something this time though; Skin's sheeting gets better and better the more you rinse it after foaming and washing whilst EX-P and FK, once they've been thoroughly rinsed once, didn't change. I tested this on the side panels by rinsing the front end more than the rear (the door got more than the rear, not as much as the front) and sure enough there was a noticeable difference in sheeting.

 

Anyway in terms of sheeting, after the coatings which are in a separate league, Skin is leading the way, EX-P follows and FK is languishing behind. Cure on the roof is still sheeting well (just behind Skin in my opinion, but that's more of a judgement call) but beading isn't too smart these days, whilst Hydro Coat on the boot is still mighty impressive and on par with the coatings currently. Phaenna is on it's last legs (which isn't bad for a show wax) and Candy Gloss Whipped is now just a memory whilst Origin on the front bumper is still looking good and sheeting very well. The wheel waxes on the exhaust are both still going strong, but it didn't rain under the car so there's no pictures to back this up. I'd apologise for that but I don't care.

 

So, have some rainy beads;

 

 

EX-P;

 

Skin;

 

FK;

 

Left is EX-P, right is Skin;

 

Left is Skin, right is FK;

 

Skin is still offering the better beads, although they have started to drop off a touch now - they are no longer quite as tight and tall as previous weeks, nor as consistently round, however they are not as poor as either EX-P or FK yet. EX-P and FK aren't much different to each other either.

 

Origin;

 

Cure;

 

 

 

Seems to be marginally better on the pillar trim rather than the roof, I'm assuming this is as much the angle of the panel as anything.

 

Hydro Coat;

 

 

 

Top is Hydro Coat, bottom is Infinity;

 

Top is Skin, bottom is Infinity;

 

Infinity;

 

Cure, Hydro Coat and G1;

 

 

The irony of the "itbeads" sticker not beading both amuses and irritates me in equal measures. I may have to find a way to make it bead!

 

Cure and G1;

 

That's your lot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh, and for those interested, the interview on Monday went really well.

Edited April 30, 2015 by ilogikal1

[Stutopia]

Great to catch up on this thread after a few weeks away. AMMO Skin rules!

 

Having just done 3198 miles in a black car, I could have done with taking some of these LSPs for a cold weather test All she got was a quick 5 minute pressure wash (by Sweden's premiere motor cycle stunt rider mind you!) by which time the bead had well a truly failed

 

Glad the interview went well mate, fingers crossed for you.

[ilogikal1]

Cheers Stu.

 

I have to admit, I've been very pleasantly surprised by Skin. I wasn't too sure what to expect from it before using it - on the one hand it's quite expensive compared to others on the market, on the other hand it's been designed by/for one specific person so I wasn't convinced that it'd be as easy to use as it is, nor that it'd be as strong a competitor to established brands as it's proving to be (or rather exceed).

 

If he can get a UK distributor (and maybe even bring the price down a bit), it could do very well over here.

[Stutopia]

Cheers Stu.

 

I have to admit, I've been very pleasantly surprised by Skin. I wasn't too sure what to expect from it before using it - on the one hand it's quite expensive compared to others on the market, on the other hand it's been designed by/for one specific person so I wasn't convinced that it'd be as easy to use as it is, nor that it'd be as strong a competitor to established brands as it's proving to be (or rather exceed).

 

If he can get a UK distributor (and maybe even bring the price down a bit), it could do very well over here.

 

Sounds like an opportunity. If only I knew someone who knows all about detailing, could do product demos and handle detailing questions, whilst also having my own small business already in place....

[ilogikal1]

(More) free samples for product testers, yes?

 

[Stutopia]

(More) free samples for product testers, yes?

 

 

I wasn't thinking testing, I was thinking a UK distributor would need a Jason Rose type figure...

[ilogikal1]

I wasn't thinking testing, I was thinking a UK distributor would need a Jason Rose type figure...

 

I was getting my own freeloading in early.

 

You distribute, I freeload demonstrate your products. Winning combination (for me, at least ).

[ilogikal1]

Firstly, wheel cleaners... alkaline products... in this case it appears to remove the product altogether (or at the very least significantly reduce the effectiveness).

Although Imperial did lift... the coating! Except, it seems, it didn't remove it from the plastic centre cap, just from the painted wheel.

 

The staining... This can (in part) be tested though, as... I'll be repeating the same journey as last time again.

 

These two things then. I'll start by saying I was wrong about Imperial removing Slick Rims. It just kills the beading (except on plastic). The staining however... well, see below. Another 450ish miles covered since the last wash, which was the same journey as the first one in very similar weather - bone dry whilst driving, but it did rain whilst the car was sat stationary again (although it wasn't sandy rain this time). As you can see from the discs, it rained again after the return leg of the journey too this time too though.

 

I started with this (please ignore any tyre fitting soap, I had new tyres fitted on the Friday and then drove to London on the Saturday, so they hadn't been cleaned since being fitted);

 

HubiRims wheel;

 

The Slick Rims wheel that has been treated the same as the HubiRims wheel when cleaning so far;

 

 

That's not a reflection or anything, that's a very rusty coloured stain.

 

This is the half Imperial'd wheel - the left side is the unscathed Slick Rims, the top right is an area that was cleaned with Imperial last time and the bottom right is 50/50 up to the side of the spoke (the side of the spoke and left of that is all Slick Rims, face of the spoke and right was Imperial'd);

 

 

I couldn't differentiate the areas, to the point where I actually had to check the previous photos to remind myself of what area was Imperial'd (I'm making that a thing now, just so you know).

 

Finally this is the completely Imperial'd wheel. The one where all the beading was killed off except on the centre cap, the one which made me think that Slick Rims had been killed off entirely...

 

 

Damn it! But also,

 

 

So perhaps Slick Rims hasn't been removed after all! This is the only wheel with heavy spotting (the other two Slick Rims wheels, both fronts, had the odd spot still though).

 

 

At this point, all wheels were attacked with Wheel Woolies and some "pH neutral shampoo" - no idea what it actually it, it's a blind test product from Waxybox, but I'm assured it leaves nothing behind. The important point (for me) was that it's pH neutral, for the benefit of what remains of the Slick Rims.

 

That left me with this (wheels are in the same order again);

 

HubiRims wheel (excuse the weight tape residue)

 

Unmolested Slick Rims

 

That rusty stain didn't shift much!

 

The previously half Imperial'd wheel - left not, right was

 

The previously completely Imperial'd wheel

 

The spotting lifted considerably easier this time (no scrubbing occurred on this wash like I had to last time).

 

With that, out came the Car Chem Revolt. I wasn't particularly bothered about killing HubiRims off with fallout remover as that weight tape on that wheel already annoys me so I intend to remove both rears, strip off the HubiRims and replace it with something else. I've not yet decided what to do with the Slick Rims, with the wheel off I may well strip that too but I may just further molest the sealant after they (Slick Rims) suggested I give it an IPA wipe.

In the mean time, Revolt did this;

 

HubiRims - most of the reaction was traced back to the flaky damage of ugliness (that I've still not got round to sorting, obviously).

 

The unmolested Slick Rims - surprisingly it didn't react with the stain around the bubbling.

 

The previously half-Imperial'd wheel - left & bottom is unmolested, right was Imperial'd. There was no noticeable difference between the two.

 

The previously completely Imperial'd wheel - oddly, the reaction with the spots wasn't purple (there was purple reaction too, just not coming from the spots) but rather... well, this.

 

When Revolt was rinsed off (with a hose on a "jet" setting for those interested), it had removed virtually all of the stains, spots and marks - those that remained were sparse enough for me to assume that I'd just missed them with Revolt. The beading from anything that Imperial has previously Imperial'd (I told you I'm making that a thing!) is still comepletely gone, whereas that on the un-Imperial'd bits is still very good. It's just a shame the protection is so poor really. HubiRims beading was deminished a bit from the Revolt but it's still going, and to be fair it's still much better than the Imperial'd Slick Rims. No pictures of that though, largely because I can't be arsed with Slick Rims at all anymore.

[Stutopia]

Wheels could do with a refurb

[ilogikal1]

You are not wrong.

 

 

The owner needs more money first though.

[Southpaw89]

Is there a particular iron remover you'd recommend?