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ICED UP DOOR WINDOWS?


witstu

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Scrape the ice off the where it meets the door weather strips on the door - thats where its normally frozen to - this is the wonder of having doors that autodrop when you open the door - they are pretty tough but dont wind them down until they are defrosted properly :thumbs:

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Scrape the ice off the where it meets the door weather strips on the door - thats where its normally frozen to - this is the wonder of having doors that autodrop when you open the door - they are pretty tough but dont wind them down until they are defrosted properly :thumbs:

 

havent driven my z this morning but did see it was iced! So where is it you mean to scrape? Do you use like a credit card to scrape uder the seal?

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Personally I find that rubbing a gloved (or ungloved) finger along the bottom of the window a few times where it meets the door is enough to get it too drop. Also found that it does "stick" at the top of the window close to the b-piller where you can get some condensatio due to water collecting when driving.

 

Again just rub with your finger as the scraper wont cause friction and conduct heat!

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Personally I find that rubbing a gloved (or ungloved) finger along the bottom of the window a few times where it meets the door is enough to get it too drop. Also found that it does "stick" at the top of the window close to the b-piller where you can get some condensatio due to water collecting when driving.

 

Again just rub with your finger as the scraper wont cause friction and conduct heat!

 

So just rub it to get it warm is what you suggest?

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Yes you only need about 1/2 an inch rubbed away from the window strip on where it meets the door - personally I would clear the whole window anyway (so you see your mirrors) but thats because I do a long motorway journey first thing anyway.

 

Just remember a few basic rules about driving this time of year - save your poor battery from a premature demise!

 

Dont use your wipers until the windscreen is defrosted and only after you have checked wipers not frozen to the glass.

Dont drop the side windows until you know they can move freely

Dont put the rear demister on until at least your engine has had a minute or 2 to warm up and likewise the heated seat.

Dont ever pour boiling hot water on your windscreen, side glass etc!

Do invest in a good scraper and gloves - and some handwarmers - they are 2 for a £1 at Aldi - and reusable. ;)

Invest in a Club Fleece they are just the best fleeces you can buy! :clap:

 

Happy motoring! :drive1

 

Discovered today that a bigger car takes about 10 times longer to defrost than the Zed and those leather seats were like siting on an iceblock until the heater came on and boiled my backside :teeth:

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Deicer, scraper or a bit of cold/warmish water are my usual methods. I hate the smell of deicer and the sound of the scraper, so usually use my water method.

 

With regard the seals sticking to the inside of the window, if you use that Gumipledge (however its spelt!) stuff on it I find they dont stick any more ;)

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Personally I find that rubbing a gloved (or ungloved) finger along the bottom of the window a few times where it meets the door is enough to get it too drop. Also found that it does "stick" at the top of the window close to the b-piller where you can get some condensatio due to water collecting when driving.

 

Again just rub with your finger as the scraper wont cause friction and conduct heat!

 

+1 thats all I do :cold:

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you can open the boot from the key fob?!

 

i press mine once for drivers side, again for passenger... but didnt realise i could do boot aswell!! how do i do that?

 

Unfortunately I probably gave a bad description of the problem. The key fob only unlocks the boot. But once I had unlocked it you could only get it to open by a couple of millimeters when you pressed the button to open it. It felt like it was still latched onto something

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Dont put the rear demister on until at least your engine has had a minute or 2 to warm up and likewise the heated seat.

 

Can you explain your reasons for the above. The load placed on the engine by these are minute in the real world. It will only mean it stays idling aroudn 1500rpm for a bit longer which is 100% safe for the engine to warm up at. When you start driving it will make even less difference.

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Dont put the rear demister on until at least your engine has had a minute or 2 to warm up and likewise the heated seat.

 

Can you explain your reasons for the above. The load placed on the engine by these are minute in the real world. It will only mean it stays idling aroudn 1500rpm for a bit longer which is 100% safe for the engine to warm up at. When you start driving it will make even less difference.

 

I know what you mean sounds silly, but i have heard this a few times, and was told it by a family friend mechanic too. He was basically saying that your battery when cold is no where near as efficent as it should be. So if you start the car with lights on electric heaters, stereo etc... its all stealing juice... so on an old car or battery it might not even start... or on a new one teh risk is that you drain teh battery just enough so that if you stall or the engine cuts out for some unexpected reason you dont have enough juice to start it again....

 

So all in all i think its just good practice to let teh car start then after you are strapped in , about to get the the electric gates at the end of teh drive you then start turning stuff on...however in practice i turn everything on straight away! Especially the heated seats!!

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Its a nice theory but it really doesn't hold true. It would hold true if you jump in your car, turn everything on except the engine and let it use up the juice. If you get in, turn the engine on then the battery has done its job. The second the engine is turning over you are not going to be pulling anything from it as the alternator will be providing all the power (thus why the revs slightly increase)

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I was under the impression that if you're only doing a short journey then the battery wont get much chance to be recharged after cranking the engine over, but shouldn't matter too much what load you have on the alternator whilst the engine is running?

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So back on topic....

 

Thios morning i got up my car windows were iced so i rubbed the seals here (see pic) quite a bit so they were no longer icey but the window still wouldnt drop, until i got all the way to work....

 

03350z08.jpg

 

Am i rubbing in the wrong place? Or do i simply rub harder? I wouldnt say the frost today was particularly bad either....

Let me know,

Neo

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