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Missfire?


Madden

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Not sure about JDMs and OBDII, I know some cars aren't compatible but am not 100% on the Zed. I would imagine that it's fine given that no-one has mentioned it before, but it's worth waiting for someone who knows for sure to comment before committing.

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Any joy sorting your motor yet? Have you changed your fuel filters? Have you tried cleaning your throttle body? Have you checked your HT leads?

 

The obd reader sounds like a good idea, buy where will it say on the z that the car is obd compliant? Could this also be used to remove the service light?

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Assuming you actually have the CEL (Check Engine Light) lit on your instrument display, then you either need an OBDII reader or you can use the ECU reset procedure to get the codes off. If it were me I'd spend a few quid on a code reader either via eBay or get the RAC one from Argos rather than use the ECU reset,

 

I might just do that - been thinking about it for a while anyway. Is it easy to find the socket to plug it in?

 

Under the dash, right hand side mate, you can't miss it.

 

Found it OK - thanks.

 

The check engine light is not actually on, and the car seems to be ticking over fine this morning, so I'm not going to do any ore about it just now. However, I think investing in a code reader for the future might be a good idea, especially since it can be used with other cars as well. :thumbs:

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My still palying up abit.

 

Even though it is still missing it didn't bring up any fualt code after my little drive last night. I know is doesn't turn the light on unless it has the same fault twice but it normally stores the fault code after the first time.

 

I cant see how this has just come out of the blue. Really starting to **** me off now.

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S**t pal,

 

you still have the problem!!! If you can wait until weekend when we do the A/C I will plug in and we will keep fault finding with you. I think you have covered all the obvious though.

 

£100 and a Big Mac says its electrical!

 

Worst case we swap a few items over from my stock.

 

Lee :thumbs:

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arrrrrrrrrhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh :bang::bang:

 

Right found a few things wrong and fix them. Replaced all sensors today off a running 350z of the same year and still no luck. I have been using the nissan consult all day and i had no faults come up at all. Went to drive home and the car had no power and was stuttering down the road.

 

I pulled over on the m25 and turned the ignition off. Started the car again and all was fine ????????????? Drive it home 40 miles with no hesitation but still very slightly lumpy idle. Got home turned the engine off again. Started it and is missing really bad again.

 

I honestly cant see anything wrong with the car but it is still playing up.

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Well been down Abbey Motorsport all day trying to get to the bottom of the misfire problem.

 

Thanks alot to the guys down there and for Mark spending the day helping me. Very grearful indeed.

 

Well took the cats off and welded some bungs in pre cat so that i could run 2 lambda sensors. I got the car off the ramp and smashed one on my sideskirts :(:bang::bang::bang: Oh well :lol:

 

So we found the reason for the misfire. Bank 2 is running very lean on idle and through the rev range. Bank 1 is at 14.7 and bank 2 is at 19-20 odd. Not good at all.

 

So we thought we might have a dodgy injector so i went about swapping all the injectors out for a sel that had just come out of the flow tester.

 

Started the car and set it to self learn and all sorted :yahoo:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

for 10 mins till it went back to the way is was before :lol:

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Yea google has helped out a fair bit mate. Only thing this is not a normal misfire but coming up with the misfire code.

 

Basically half the engine is running fine and the other is running lean.

 

As said have had all the plenuims off and injectors with fuel rail. No air leaks and lambda's seem to be working correctly.

 

Only the front lambdas actually correct the fueling. And they are showing as healthy but at different voltages due to one being fine and one being lean :)

 

I still might try and swap over the lambdas to see if the other bank goes lean and bank 2 beings to go back to normal. As the extra bungs are in there now i can put my wide band meter in and see if the problem follows that lambda

 

Even put a Haltec ecu in the car today and played around with the cam timing just to see if one cam was slightly out of time due to the acciedent. Same again went lean so at least the ecu, injectors have now been checked along with the variable cam timing.

 

Got to check the fuel pressure but you need a specail adaptor to be able to take the reading at the fuel damper.

 

Strange one but we will get to the bottom of it. :lol: and then back to the bodyshop to fix the side skirt :bang:

 

Cheers for the help and idea guys B)

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Hello

 

Cheer for the help again mate.

 

I was thinking fuel pressure as the fuel hits bank 1 first and goes round to bank 2 so if the fuel pressure dropped slightly it might not have enought presure when it gets to the last injector ie number 6?

 

Going to have a quick play today before i go away.

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fuel pressure would not be the issue

 

if one half of the engine is running fine and the other is not, as evidenced by the 02 sensors, then one of the 02 sensors is likely faulty. Best remedy is to replace both

 

I've been looking through the Service Manual but can't work out for myself what the O2 sensors do.

 

Measure what? CO2, or Heat levels, and presumably feeback to the ECU to adjust Air Fuel Ratio? :thumbs:

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fuel pressure would not be the issue

 

if one half of the engine is running fine and the other is not, as evidenced by the 02 sensors, then one of the 02 sensors is likely faulty. Best remedy is to replace both

 

I've been looking through the Service Manual but can't work out for myself what the O2 sensors do.

 

Measure what? CO2, or Heat levels, and presumably feeback to the ECU to adjust Air Fuel Ratio? :thumbs:

 

Remember Martin that you have front and rear sensors which confuse a lot of peeps. :thumbs:

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fuel pressure would not be the issue

 

if one half of the engine is running fine and the other is not, as evidenced by the 02 sensors, then one of the 02 sensors is likely faulty. Best remedy is to replace both

 

I've been looking through the Service Manual but can't work out for myself what the O2 sensors do.

 

Measure what? CO2, or Heat levels, and presumably feeback to the ECU to adjust Air Fuel Ratio? :thumbs:

 

Remember Martin that you have front and rear sensors which confuse a lot of peeps. :thumbs:

 

Alex, you ought to run a VQ35 masterclass for those of us who have a desire to learn all they can

but havn't historically had any mechanical experience.

 

As far as I was aware, I just have 2, as I have the stock cats - at the moment.

:)

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fuel pressure would not be the issue

 

if one half of the engine is running fine and the other is not, as evidenced by the 02 sensors, then one of the 02 sensors is likely faulty. Best remedy is to replace both

 

I've been looking through the Service Manual but can't work out for myself what the O2 sensors do.

 

Measure what? CO2, or Heat levels, and presumably feeback to the ECU to adjust Air Fuel Ratio? :thumbs:

 

Remember Martin that you have front and rear sensors which confuse a lot of peeps. :thumbs:

 

Alex, you ought to run a VQ35 masterclass for those of us who have a desire to learn all they can

but havn't historically had any mechanical experience.

 

As far as I was aware, I just have 2, as I have the stock cats - at the moment.

:)

 

You will also have 2 front sensors in the exhaust manifolds mate. :thumbs:

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If you have a uk car you will have 2 proper widebands before the cats ans 2 normal lambda's behind the cats to check the cats condtion really.

 

As the front ones are widebands they have heaters built into them to warm them up quiclky so the reading are control are precise straight away.

 

All the do is adjust the fueling from the engine

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