RobPhoboS Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 So some bits and pieces turned up today, and I just wanted to ensure I'm going to do this the right way Obviously here we have (from top left to right), the instructions, the sensor, a 3/8 to 1/8 converter, the gauge connector and a fuse tap (I'll have to check if I ordered the right size later). So do I connect the red wire to an extension, then into the fuse tap (I'll test which fuse, and which orientation to do it) ? The green wire to a wire extension to a fork connector onto the sensor. Where does the black wire go to ? I know it says the negative battery but where do you guys tap it? The gauge is going to sit in the cubby hole I guess for now. In the future I may use this on an oil filter sandwich plate rather than the oil pan spacer. Last question, the oil temp sensor thread is tapered, why is that ? I've got Loctite 577 for all of the threads if required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 You seem to have it covered - White conector block into the back of the gauage Red wire - to an ignition controlled positive sorce via a fuse (so its not on all the time) Green wire to the sensor Black wire to earth - any earth point on the car so a bolt under the dash (look for an exsisting earth point) If you want to add this to the exsisting oil pressure switch you want a "T" Piece so you can fit both In answer to your last question - The taper on NPT threads allows them to form a seal when torqued as the flanks of the threads compress against each other, as opposed to parallel/straight thread fittings or compression fittings in which the threads merely hold the pieces together and do not provide the seal. Hope it helps 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Ah fantastic, many thanks for writing that up - big help I've got some heat proof aluminium tape for the sensor wire, which hopefully should shield it enough. With that NPT fitting, I presume hand/spanner tight is enough ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retro_al Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 I'm fitting two stack gauges in mine, no wiring with them though, what gauge wire do people recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Ah fantastic, many thanks for writing that up - big help I've got some heat proof aluminium tape for the sensor wire, which hopefully should shield it enough. With that NPT fitting, I presume hand/spanner tight is enough ? They will have a set torque but hand tight is enough - if they leak they need a bit more - be careful on ally sumps such as the 350z has you can strip the threads so better to be a bit loose and need a twak (if it leaks) rather than get all manly and strip the threads. I'm fitting two stack gauges in mine, no wiring with them though, what gauge wire do people recommend? You really need to know the draw on the circuit but if it helps 1mm wire should be up to that job plenty of info on the web for cable size against current drawn. for example - http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 Hopefully I'll finally be slinging the temp gauge in on Friday evening. I just wondered 2 more things prior to starting... Which side of the car should I get the cable running through the firewall (is there one side that's easier?) ? Where the hell is the hole in the firewall ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 Still no luck yet, I had a quick look by the battery, I see a big bunch of cables going into a rubber grommet, I'm guessing that's one way into the cabin? Seemed high up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350jimbobz Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 I went in behind the abs unit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Still no luck yet, I had a quick look by the battery, I see a big bunch of cables going into a rubber grommet, I'm guessing that's one way into the cabin? Seemed high up. If you go that way, remember and seal off the cable entry point on the rubber grommet as any water ingress from the grommet area will drop right on to the ECU. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 Thank you gents, I saw that Chris Drift also went behind the ABS unit, it didn't look easy at a glance. Did you go from the cabin first then out to the engine bay 350jimbobz? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw99 Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Still no luck yet, I had a quick look by the battery, I see a big bunch of cables going into a rubber grommet, I'm guessing that's one way into the cabin? Seemed high up. If you go that way, remember and seal off the cable entry point on the rubber grommet as any water ingress from the grommet area will drop right on to the ECU. I'd made this mistake didn't seal the rubber grommet that well, caused a flood on the floor. will never make that mistake again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Sorted ! I ended up going through the big grommet thing by the battery as it was far easier. Technically I don't think you need to do this part but just in case... Contort yourself under the passenger dash, take off the 10mm bolt holding the white plastic thing that's blocking your visibility to the main wiring grommet. Unclip the grommet holder from here, you might need someone to turn the grommet from the engine bay side about 90deg. We pierced the rubber boot with a very thin allen key that was the same thickness as my sensor cable (I bought 5m which was the perfect amount for all wiring), ran it down to my sensor and made sure it's not going to get caught up anywhere. Back in the cabin I just ran it from under the passenger dash to the side of the stereo and up into the cubby hole. We had to tap into the cigar lighter as the piggy-back fuse thing was the wrong size. Hopefully that's ok for now, everything seems to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly350z Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Any pictures chap? Im weighing up options for some more guages at the moment as I miss keeping an eye on what everythings doing like the Honda! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 No photo's at all, didn't have time tbh - once you stick your head under there, you'll see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scobie140 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I've just done this the other day. Pretty easy. My tip would be to not remove the grommet, just pierce it and then seal your hole when finished. I removed the grommet and damaged the clip slightly so stuck some sealant under it for extra reassurance as it wasn't as sturdy as before. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Yup, that's why I didn't think we needed to move it, could have saved about 45 mins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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