Jump to content

diy individual throttle bodies


andybp
 Share

Recommended Posts

34 minutes ago, Toon Chris said:

please don't strike me down with wrath, but couldn't you have designed the oval to round transition in the inlet milling? Or was that a computational step to far for your setup?

Perhaps it's as simple as it's just easier in the gasket/spacer, not necessarily the ideal solution?

I only ask as the transition could be more gradual but maybe that doesn't add much value?

Perfectly reasonable question surprised nobody picked it up before, I did consider this and it could be done with the right tooling (which I don't have) but it was hard enough programming a curve into the port to blend into the port from the manifold while blending an elliptical port into a round one but to get the elliptical port to change in both width and height blending into a round port while creating a curve into the port was just too difficult so I chose to blend the port height within the insulating spacer that I was going to use anyway

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Toon Chris said:

Yes, I suppose it does bent the mind a bit with the calculation and one step wrong an a large, expensive block is a doorstop.  If you are using an insulating spacer anyway I guess it would seem silly to waste the opportunity :lol:

my thoughts exactly 

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All of the 10mm phenolic spacers are cut

IMG_20180208_171832.thumb.jpg.b4c64424984c718395318df261ae621a.jpg

 

and the thing I haven't mentioned so far, which is how I plan on bolting my manifold to the inlet manifold is sorted successfully the problem was that the mounting bolts for the throttle bodies and the manifold both wanted to occupy the same space  so my solution is to cut a shaped pocket into the manifold below the throttle body mounts just big enough to get the nut on the mounting stud and get a ring spanner over the top

 

IMG_20180213_163025.thumb.jpg.0e543149bffc21c1af4e65673b347070.jpg

 

IMG_20180212_201902a.thumb.jpg.5911cd2b3e117cda0f09a351d8f862d4.jpg

 

IMG_20180213_180642.thumb.jpg.2bd9966ca49c59a53efe5a9df1661cc3.jpg

 

IMG_20180213_180714_BURST003.thumb.jpg.f9312d232757e3dcdd2658777fe921cb.jpg

 

I've still got the three pockets to cut on the other side and I still need to smoothe the ports so I guess I'll keep putting one foot in front of the other for a while yet

:)

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thought I'd try to get some work done today I recently bought a new  belt finger sander / power file whatever you want to call it also a bucket load of belts for it and 6 flap wheels so far I've got through 25 belts and all 6 flap wheels :lol: wish I'd bought softer ally for this manifold :shrug: never mind I think I'm nearly there another hour and 10 more belts should see it done

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Toon Chris said:

yea I saw it price starts at £2400 including vat by the time you add on all the bits you actually need to make it work it's up to £3300 plus the ecu at another £1000+

ignoring my time it's cost me about £350 that will probably hit £400-450 + the ECU by the time it's finished and I wouldn't have had all this fun so 

 

Jenvey £4500 :thumbdown:

 

Andybp £1750 :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still upset as I have no phenolic spacers and you now have 10!!!!!

 

I have one of those finger belt sanders I recently purchased and my impressions so far are - it's pants :( as soon as you apply any meaningful pressure the belt comes off - it may be me but not found it to be much good so far, I go through sanding disks, flap wheels and all other sorts of sanding paper at an alarming rate, I but it in bulk these days :lol:

 

Keep up the good work mate its coming along and those little cut-outs will either be a great success or they will become "those f'ing cut-outs" I hope its the first one for your sake :lol:

 

I spent the weekend repairing an oil line on a certain V8 engined 350z and then repairing a broken plug on my trailer winch so no fun tinkering and making things :(

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No phenolic spacers how can you live with the shame :p

just to tease you some more here they are all bolted down clearances aren't too bad either

 

20170623_000442.JPG.fc9e8a919d66942e4085f25ebd31e953.JPG

 

20170623_000513.JPG.16ebc76c3467a4a171795e275a67beb0.JPG

 

20170623_002126.JPG.47edb0d476e3b83be4157420d204c46f.JPG

 

20170623_002249.JPG.d1623e652e7b23bc7016d033b8f6ae99.JPG

 

I've now removed my throttle bodies and fitted the original plenum as it's easier to take on and off so I can still use my Z

and yes I know I need to change the date and time on my camera and take the plastic off the lense :blush: 

:)

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good :thumbs:

 

I don't get why snow will slow you down? But I don't know what you are "on standby" for - I think you just don't want to go outside if its a bit cold :cold:  :lol:

 

 

PS date on camera still needs sorting :p

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Keyser said:

Looking good :thumbs:

 

I don't get why snow will slow you down? But I don't know what you are "on standby" for - I think you just don't want to go outside if its a bit cold :cold:  :lol:

 

 

PS date on camera still needs sorting :p

Lots of aging mechanical equipment outside doesn't tend to like the cold,snow,rain,sun or even a light mist :lol:

one old line shaft pump I was looking at the other day was made in the 50's runs about 15 hrs a day 365 days a year they don't make em like they used to.

:)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Toon Chris said:

Nice and smooth :thumbs:

Are you doing any aesthetic work on the block too?  i.e. remove the toblerone effect?  Or is it all about the mechanicals for you?

still got a little more machining to do on it so I might de-toblerone it but it's not a priority

:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've made the new arms for the individual banks and one for the servo I decided to use the modified throttle servo from my old ITB setup for now 

 

IMG_20180304_153727.jpg.953109c83b2c4ae125a8076ef986febd.jpg

 

also made a mounting plate to mount the servo to the manifold

 

IMG_20180304_154010.jpg.450d79f24ce471bbc575c7fbfa5cabd4.jpg

 

then I machined a recess into the end of the manifold for it to fit into

 

IMG_20180304_162451.jpg.d339823d6d61fcbbe8bdf91ccfc41331.jpg

 

IMG_20180304_165705.jpg.c316667072ceecc24d87f74753af5a56.jpg

 

IMG_20180304_165650.jpg.83e4fcb0a24c016f93969a46e1ba4a84.jpg

 

IMG_20180304_181241.jpg.5048b46bb657eec7c1668bb39faba679.jpg

 

IMG_20180304_153706.jpg.3b74a25525fabb1e35be962498d665ae.jpg

 

IMG_20180304_153742.jpg.65c85b44c41d2e31bb3f09cd81a72bf0.jpg

 

 

IMG_20180304_181531.jpg.0e21bf892e00dfe898d19778282d5e54.jpgIMG_20180304_181558.jpg.7c5cdded9e85f7ebd731b9e656cb6d7a.jpgIMG_20180304_181523.jpg.5c13445757705d83c03e499aea3a5aa8.jpgIMG_20180304_181539.jpg.9a6e0a7afad59a357482dfe05b947474.jpg

 

still plenty to do but it's getting there

 

:)

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Been a bit quiet for a while been busy with other stuff I needed to build a new controller for my CNC Mill and rebuild my cnc router so much to do and so little time 

 

IMG_20180401_150013.jpg.f8eddb0aaed01f451239004fafdc80ad.jpg

 

Never mind back on track now

 

IMG_20180401_150044.jpg.886d46a068c5d253c69e1da4205a66cb.jpg

 

IMG_20180401_150052.jpg.e45f1973fd54e1296b83fcc4a8daf2b4.jpg

 

The linkages are all pretty much sorted BMW used steel rod to connect the linkages together I chose to use ally in an attempt to reduce the overall mass the throttle servo would have to move the only problem with with this is that it flexes too much so I had to make a tie bar up using two M12 rose joints fixed in place with circlips the one in the picture is temporary just to prove it solves the problem which it does I've also fitted lighter springs to the throttle bodies also to reduce the load on the servo and the original injector ports have been tapped to accept 6mm push fit fittings for the vacuum takeoff .

There's not too much left to do, print the velocity stacks but I won't do that until it's in and I can check clearances also I need to strip and clean everything before installation so really more than anything I need some time off work to get it finished :)

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So I went to fit these this afternoon  and found a problem. the arms that open the throttle bodies have to move up toward the bonnet to open and I need another inch of clearance the only way to get that is to cut the bonnet and that's not happening so unless some major inspiration comes to me in my sleep this project will end here. :shrug:

The missus offered to buy me a set of jenvey or obx ones but that wasn't really the point the only problem now is I have become a bit addicted to the noise

Not sure what to do now so I'll sleep on it :dry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would a bonnet with strategically placed vents not give them room to move or is that something you wish to avoid? What a major pain in the ass =(

 

You should take your lovely lady up on the offer of a set of Jenvey ITBs if you can't engineer a solution! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...