SteveW

Hi Alex thanks very much. Would you recommend I replace the axle as well as the bearing? Only reason I ask is that when I replaced only the bearing on my Celica GT4 the thing failed again in about 8 months. Maybe I can do all the strip work myself and just get a garage to remove my old bearing and put on the new one? just buy a hub puller and a ball joint separator, maybe a day off work is required.... didn't realise the bearing alone would be around £80 yikes! Thank you Steve

Oh dear, had a cracking day at Oulton Park but coming home I noticed some odd noise from the rear left wheel. I checked the wheel bearing when I got back and it is well screwed up. Loads and loads of play. Going to be ringing around garages tomorrow to find a price to have it done. I would have a bash myself but don't have the time, special tools or a big monster press. Any ideas of what price I should expect?? Cheers Steve

I had a similar bump recently, a good bodyshop won't use filler because it will fall out over time. My repair cost £313 with VAT but the girl who hit me paid for it in cash. My damage was only minor too but it could have cracked the bumper and or damaged the crash barr and this you won't know about until after a few weeks later when the paint starts to crack which just gets worse. The bumpers cost a fortune about £800 so your minor bump could result in a large bill that you hadn't thought.] Also make sure you read your insurance terms and conditions, my policy said I had to report any incidents within 48 hours even if it was just for information. You've got his reg get him to pay for it! I would do it just because he acted like a ass!

Thanks fellas, thats what it claims drop wise Chris. Its more than that after a weeks driving as they bed in. It definitely looks better and handles better

Well I put some Tein S-Tech springs on the other week so here are some before and after pics for those who can't decide between Tein and Eibach. I like them stiffened the ride up nicely but not too excessive, it is still quite compliant on the bumpy UK roads but makes the handling way more precise. I will be writing a guide on how to do the change over. Its pretty easy but the damper rod top nuts can be a ball ache! Before After Before After Before After Cheers

With the bungs I was measured at 94.2db (static test) and without 103.9db (static test) I personally think its quite restrained with the bungs, but noise perception is always a personal thing, I know I have bad hearing....Too many years as a bedroom DJ, lol.

I have now left the ASBO club it was just too loud without the bungs on the daily commute and I felt bad for constantly waking up all the neighbours at 7:00 every morning. I know I'd be mad if it was my neighbour doing it to me. They will be coming out for trackdays though.

Just be careful and check very closely for fine cracks in the paint. Most bumps with any sort of force will leave fine cracks which means a strip and respray.

Yeah it's all about personal taste, I use mine as an everyday commuter 18 miles each way on motorways so a K1 was never an option I use mine as an everyday commuter 33miles a day and have a K1. With the bungs in it sounds lovely take them out and its too loud for commuting. My bungs are currently out but will be going back in soon, just can't get enough of the popping and banging on over run at the moment.

I removed the bungs from my K1, interesting is all I can say. Love the popping and burbling on over run but hate the tone and volume on regular driving. Its definately a marmite thing. Think the bungs will be off back in in a few days. It does sound awesome with them in.

I use yellow stuffs and on the road no issues at all. They seem like very good pads to me. I also use them on track and they do overheat after about 15 minutes of abuse, track dependent but they last long enough before you should really be pulling in anyway. I'm off for DS2500's next time around because of the track use. If you are considering any trackdays I'd go DS2500 and for road yellowstuffs.

Mine was exactly like yours mate, its just the motor brushes losing contact with the contacts on the motor shaft. I fixed mine when I wrote the guide quite a few months back now and still have no issues since doing it. 99% of the time a window failure will be down to worn brushes in the motor which can be replaced or reset. Good luck Steve

In theory this should be the net effect and indeed happen when you fit wheel spacers to the front wheels. The zed is designed, as far as I can tell, with a virtual kingpin axis and zero kingpin offset, i.e. the wheel pivots about a virtual centre struck straight through the wheel thanks to the upper ball joint location. this is condusive to the best steering 'feel'. This gives the best type of handling and no tyre scrub hence why the steering feels 'sharper'. Its likely to be there on all cars fitted with wheel spacers but people simply haven't noticed the difference, th eoverall effect may only be negligible. The other issue with fitting wheel spacers is the increased stress on the wheel bearings, both front and rear. Now it depends on the load capacity of the bearings in use, which will be well in excess of what the car will experience but the net effect of wheel spacers will be reduced wheel bearing life due to additional fatigue per revolution. It would be fairly simple to work out the increase in stress / load on the wheel bearings by lengthening the fulcrum (lever arm) for each mm you extend.

I did mine without the bumper off it can just about be done by only taking off the front undertray but it does require some clever use of tools. It did take a while though and in future I would defo take the bumper off!

Hi mate for performance with a remap you do want to run an airbox and panel filter. However, induction kits are worth it for the noise, you will not see any performance gains from an induction kit. The ECU on the zed is very clever and adds more fuel to kill any gains the induction kit makes. However, for the noise aspect alone I think an induction kit is worth it, whilst for out and out performance the airbox and panel filter combo is best, once again you won't see any gains without a remap. As for the gear oils I'm sorry I have no idea because I have never used either of those. Being branded classic I wouldn't have thought hey were suitable for modern cars. Your best bet might be to give Opieoils a call they will be able to recommend a good oil for the box. Cheers Steve

I quite like the colour coded dash, have been thinking of doing this to mine for a while, however, mine would be black not white as the car is black or orange to match the clocks.....

Thanks mate, I'll take a look. The main point for me wanting them is the aesthetics to be honest but I don't want to waste my money on something that creates more lift when I would be spending the money anyway so might as well go for something that does have a functional effect even if the effect is only small, it all helps.

Hi mate, I have the newest software on my 3G and it still doesn't work, unfortunately. Stupid phone! Cheers Steve

Thanks mate, maybe thats what I need to do then. I'll drop R35LEE a PM and see if he can confirm, tis bloody annoying! Cheers

Just done a similar test with home amp and I got 40 micro amps of current and 2.5 Volts. The iphone works perfectly with the home amp anda headphone - RCA lead. ??????

I'm looking for a functional splitter and functional diffuser for the zed to help with the downforce on trackdays. Obviously there are a few lips, splitters and diffusers about but does anyone know if they actually have an effect on performance and don't just look good? Brands and models would be nice if someone could recommend some, companies seem to just sell their products based on the looks but what about the function? Cheers

1) Millers oils are good oils Irun millers CFS 5w-40 but I take my car on track and that is a motorsport/race oil so defo good enough for the road, I have used millers XFS 5W-4o in the past as a fully synth on the road oil and Silkolene ProS is another class oil (recently rebranded to Fuchs but can't remember which one) Changing the gear oil is easy you just need a big syringe or turkey baster to pump the new oil in after draining the old stuff. However, and I can;t stress this strongly enough DO NOT USE A GL5 ONLY gear oil. GL5 is not a syncromesh oil you need to use a GL4. You can use an oil that is GL4 AND GL5, this is basically an oil that is a GL4 but has such high load capacity that it can be used in GL5 applications. In the past I've used millers and silkolene, however ZMANALEX who is running 600BHP swears by the Nissan stuff. 2) Your car is 276 brake unless its a GT4 uprev engines were fitted to all zeds from 2006 3) Its easy installing an induction kit save the £50 for petrol after fitting it, you will have your foot planted for the first few days because of the awesome new sound Welcome

Thank you for the suggestion though mate! I'm at a complete loss so any suggestions are appreciated.........anyone? Cheers

And the higher pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant. So it has a functional purpose. Only downside is higher pressure can potentially create more fatigue on the plastic radiator end tanks meaning the rad won't last as long.

Yes sorry helps if I actually say how it's connected doesn't it. I'm connecting via the headphone port on the iPhone. I bought a cable with a3.5mm head phone jack to 2 phono/RCA connectors. I cut off the RCA plugs twisted the earths together and soldered the left and right sound channels to the relevant connections inside the Bose. I had originally soldered the earth to the earth point inside the Bose ( as described in many of the ghetto mp3 mod guides) but I have now de soldered the earth for the investigation Thank you