steve3000

As, above, if you remove everything ie. the Bose/clarion headunit, the bose AMP (in the boot), the speakers and sub - and replace these with non-bose items, then you won't need a PAC adaptor. But you will need new cabling, speakers and sub. Problem you'll find is there's no direct link from the bose headunit plug in the dash to the speakers - the output from the headunit is all routed to the amp in the boot, this then powers the speakers - which is why you'll need PAC adaptor unless you replace the lot. All the PAC adaptor does is to cut the signal from an amplified headunit down, so it can be used as an input to the bose amp. Steve

It was a travel show me & the missus were spotting all the places we'd been a few years back... A lot of the country roads looked new but Hai Van Pass was still the same - awesome place! Steve

Thanks guys! Look forward to hearing back from you Steve

It may depend on the original wheels you have or whether you have a UK or JDM. My stock JDM wheel nuts (for the 17" wheels) certainly are different - they have 21mm heads. Steve

Thanks mate, didn't think of ebay! Just had a look, there's one with 'about 5mm on it' which is the closest I can find... Ideally I'd rather get a bit closer to 6mm (the rest of mine are all spot-on 6mm) if anyone has one? Cheers, Steve

BUMP - Still looking for one of these (6th April) - anyone have a spare? Ok, it's a long shot I know, but does anyone have a spare Bridgestone Potenza RE040 245/45R18 with ~6mm left? I've just purchased a set of 18" Rays to improve my JDM , but while fitting I noticed one of the rear tyres is badly damaged on the inside wall. The other 3 are spot on, so it'd be a shame to fork out £££ for a new set of rears... Can anyone help? Cheers, Steve

LOL give him a point for trying! But I really wouldn't like to slam the breaks on hard, that sub would launch... Rather unfortunate choice of words in the description too...

I'd be very dubious about that comment - other than the shiny Nissan badge on the engine cover, there isn't a single shared part between the Z engine and the Micra...! Sorry I can't help on the problem, but if I were you I'd definately rule out the ECU error and get the sensors checked first, then ideally lookup a garage local to you who've had experience of the vq35de engine - unfortunately Nissan dealers really won't know where to start, hence their guesswork above. Steve

PM sent. Steve

Excellent glad the work paid off! You might be able to get better fitting surrounds from different manufacturers - if you have a 2003/4 JDM you'll probably have the grey dash colour (rather than black as the UK cars have) and you can get a matching facia in the same grey from some of the US websites. Try some searches on here, or my350z.com. Cheers, Steve

I've read a few roumers of differences in suspension on early JDMs compared to UK setup and the later 2004+ JDMs. What actually are the differences? Springs? Shocks? arbs? And what would you need to change on an early car to make it work well with something like the Cobb setup? Steve

yeah, sometimes these things happen, glad you've got it sorted now. OK great stuff, so you've heard sound from the stock h/u? The 'press eject' means the CD changer has probably jammed - this is common fault for the bose system, can be repaired but would cost a few £££, best stick to your aftermarket system. Lack of sound again points to no power getting to the amp. Follow the purple/red wire from the small plug (amp power), what colour wire does it join to on your PAC ROEM? Follow that through the connectors to your headunit - does it get all the way there, or is it not wired in somewhere? Some of the 'micra' h/u adaptors don't have this wire in their plugs, so it may not be connected to your headunit. There is a fairly easy fix if this is the case. Steve

Found a pic of the smaller plug, to compare to yours (ignore the taped up red lead running over the top): Note the pink/red lead on mine is on the left, and on your's it's on the right, as is the grey lead below. Steve

eek... Looking at your picture, you have all the wires backwards! The diagram in the post above is viewing from the front of the plug (this is the usual orientation for pin diagrams) and by the looks of your plugs, you've wired them from behind - so the wires are all in reverse. I'll have a look for a pic of one of my plugs and post it up. Steve

http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... light=bose Ahhh...knew I'd seen that somewhere before (adds a bookmark) very useful! Steve

Ok, if you've not heard anything out of it at all and the previous owner had an aftermarket headunit plugged in, it's possible he had an aftermarket amp, but also possible he's cut the +ve power feed to the bose amp in order to wire it directly to 12v ignition or the amp-on signal from his new head unit (this is what had happened on my car). If he's done that, then all that's wrong is you're not powering up the amp. Find the smaller of the two loom plugs, which has 6 pins (if your's is a JDM import, the wires will be coloured grey, purple/red, black/yellow, light green, pink and blue). Find pin no. 2 (purple/red wire on JDM) this is the amp 12v power wire - follow it back until it enters the loom - and check it very carefully for any breaks. Cheers, Steve

It's very rare to have a problem with the actual BOSE amplifer (but not unheard of...). Best thing is to do what you're doing and go right back to standard and see if you can confirm everything still works. Some questions: Did everything work fine before you started fitting the new stereo? Do you know the old OEM stereo works? - when you plug it in now does it light up correctly and display the CD tracks and radio settings ok? Cheers, Steve

Many car audio/ICE stores can decode the radio (or they'll know of workshops that do), just try calling a few in the yellow pages, give them the model number off the top of the unit (I think it's something like "Clarion PP-2596L CR330" - but they vary with year, so check yours first!) and they'll tell you if they can decode it. I used a car stereo shop near me (sadly now closed!) for my last car which had a similar vin-coded radio and they were able to reset the radio to 'delivery mode' so it would lock to the next car it's plugged into. Just handed them the unit for 20 minutes. Don't test it in your car if they do reset it to delivery mode, it'll just lock to yours again...! Get a reciept proving the work was done and pass on the the new owner. Steve

Hi all, As the title - I'm going to change the aftermarket alarm on my import to something a little more robust. Can anyone recommend an alarm installer (ideally with experience of the Z) in hertfordshire/cambridge/north london? Cheers, Steve

Yes - you could always try ebay, I have seen unlocked units sell for over £100 in the past. As your's is a UK Bose, it'll be locked so it only works in your car, via the NATS security system. They can be unlocked (reset to 'delivery' mode, so it then locks to the next car it's plugged into) for around £15-£20 by decent car audio/security workshops, although they'll need the unit out of the car for this. Might be worth considering doing this if you want to sell for top dollar. FYI - JDM and US Bose units don't have the same security lock, so will work in any car, but they need frequency converters to recieve the radio... Steve

Very sorry to hear this news. Best wishes to Phil and all your family, hope he makes a swift recovery. Steve

Nice, but still a hefty price to ask for an 02 plate import...

Nice one glad to hear you got it sorted - makes a good change from the skipping cds doesn't it! Later in the same guide shows how to add a switch so you can retain tape function... incase you ever play tapes... I tried using the glove box too, but eventually bought a dash mount for my ipod (from ebay) and routed the wire behind the dash to it. Makes the whole changing track thing much easier! Cheers, Steve

That is nice Imagine it'd be a hefty amount of work to swap in one of those... Definatley an interesting route to a turbo'd Z though - you could probably even pick up a 2JZ lump for about the price you could sell your Z engine, so would just need to fit it and sort the ecu... humm... £££... Steve

It's all very well offering people advice on the price of their car - but some of the agressive posts I've seen recently in the ads have really put me off. I think we all know a standard 2003 Z with 100K on the clock isn't worth £20,000, but if someone choses to advertise it at that price why is it a problem? Anyone passing through looking to buy a Z will find all the current price info within 5 minutes on the search engine, or by taking a look at autotrader/pistonheads. As others have mentioned, several other forums lock the sales threads to the original poster, could be worth considering. Steve