ZMANALEX

Is your cubby dark grey or black? Also, does the lid just flip up or does it retract?

Glad that I asked as it is usually the cubby in the centre console between the seats that breaks. I don't have the upper console lid on its own, however, I should have a complete box from a non-nav car in the shop. Let me grab an image for you later today.

No worries Andy, can you post up an image of your lid please?

Not a big job to replace the valve stem oil seals on the VQ35DE or HR. Using the JWT valve spring compressor, this job can easily be done in situ without removing the heads.

Simple mistake.

They are different so your mechanic is correct

You will require to order a new OEM O ring I am afraid as measuring an O ring so small is tricky. Or if I have an old one I could match it up for you.

The VQ35DE and HR is a torquey wee beast and I certainly would not be changing down at 7000 rpm. Either get some track driving lessons or fix the gearbox or perhaps both.

I have these in stock and are good to go same/next day. just drop me a PM if I can help further. Just confirm that it is #5 from the schematic.

Yeah, as above, you are beating the syncro.

The clutches in the 350 early JDM import cars are slightly different, however, the stock OEM Exedy clutch kit and bearing with the LUK DMF is a suitable replacement as are most aftermarket kits. Be careful with the clutch fork which will probably be mild steel, so swop it out for the heavy cast type. and as Coz has said the pivot balls.

In stock. Just to be clear, please post up an image of your actual cubby lid.

He already has. Quoted £50.00 but collection only I am afraid.

At the rear, it is usually the "W" bracing and bracing stays (kidney brackets) that suffer from corrosion. The rear subframe is aluminium as Paul has said, so does not corrode. Photos require to provide informed advice.

Power window regulators are in stock and good to go same/next day

Is the regulator free? Is the square drive in the regulator intact? The motor does not require a separate ground as such. Disconnect the motor from the regulator and with all the electrics connected check the operation of the motor using the switch. If the motor works and the square drive on the motor is good then it will be the regulator.

Yes,singles are in stock, but i would have to check if front or rears

Where are you based?

I have always found that the Nissan OEM fluids work best in this tranny. Choice of 2 below. However, if the syncros are worn then they will require replacement which is not a huge job in the grand scheme of things.

Yes, Consult is the Nissan diagnostic tool, however best to avoid the Nissan main dealership network and find a good Indy.

It is very easy for any competent garage who knows their way around a 350 to check for timing chain stretch or timing out because of chain issues just like checking the DMF timing and crank position sensor. As I have said Consult is the way forward because otherwise, you are just guessing which can become very expensive as the previous owner has found out to his detriment. It will not be the first time, nor will it be the last that a chain has been replaced unnecessarily. Faulty Exhaust Cam position sensors can also cause similar issues.

Perhaps the new timing chain has not been timed correctly., however, it could be many things. Get it on Consult and at the same time get an Up rev tune. Abbey Motorsport is not far from you in Oxted. Tell them that I sent you. Is your car a DE or an HR model?

Could be numerous things, however, DTC P0084 is indeed Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 2) and that is where I would start, but best to get it on Consult with a 350Z Indy to get an informed diagnosis and quotation. However, if it was a simple fix don't you think that the vendor would have got it fixed prior to advertising???? Plenty of solenoids in stock if required. What year and model is this car?

In that case, to identify which cyl. it just disconnect the coils one at a time and note how the tone changes.