Chris`I

NO

Who says I dont get paid for it. Sure the forum doesnt pay for it, but I do quite a lot of it in office hours

Its on the todo list

I'm sure Google Analytics says otherwise - we are watching you

Think we have it set to "forever" so they never expire.

Maybe the engine needs a plenum spacer? OK, I'll stop now.

Another one to try, if 350z-uk is broken try - www.370z-uk.net and log in via that. It creates a different cookie so should always work if you were using 350z-uk before

You need to teach them the 2BM of washing And hope they use microfiber cloths too! Maybe if you detail it, the reduction in swirls will reduce drag as the surface is smoother?

Well they never told us that. Maybe give Tim a shout?

Really? It used to be 25 Did you tell them you're a mod on here?

What wax to RB use Daryl? Must have something to make the cars faster, or does it add extra weight?

This is true. You can also slacken it off via the adjuster under the ashtray, but its not a one man job to set it back after. I never managed to get my trim over the handbrake as it was always set properly by WLMG so wouldnt go anywhere near vertical

Fecking AOL - why cant people follow standard

I pretty much do the same thing as Rich - only I polish first then cleanse. No idea which way round is best, difference in results will be marginal at most - but its a good starting point. I find polish then cleanse gives me a glassier feeling paintwork, but that may be the cleanse leaving something behind that is glossy? No idea. Also worth noting, use the 2 bucket method for washing the car. No point doing all the prep to then bring the swirls back quicker. Remember with wax, any you can see is wasted as you will wipe it off. But you want to make sure all the paint is covered. So nice thin layer via applicator is the way to go. Not sure I agree with Megs, I have seen sample shots of where people have layered too much wax and it made the paint more yellow. Was on DW forums. Maybe if you try to layer with super thin layers you cant as the new layer will take off the old wax? I tend only to use one layer of DD SN these days and top up with DD Red Mist after each wash.

This is going to open a whole can of worms. Engines are bench tested before they leave the factory, so IMO no they dont need bedding in when new. Other parts of the car do, brakes, tyres etc, which is why manufacturers dont want you booting it everywhere in the first few hundred miles. I see no problem in getting the engine fully warmed up and giving it a good old thrashing when new, so long as you build up to it when the engine is nice and warm. Put it this way, I wasnt even home before my 370z was nice and warm Theres actually evidence out there that suggests if you take it too easy when they are new that you will get sealing problems with the piston rings and such that you are more likely to suffer excessive oil use if the engine is nannied too much rather than booting it. Sure someone will be along to counter this argument though.

As the others have said - prep is far more important. You will get a far better finish machine polishing the paint and using no wax or crap wax than you will with poor prep and concours wax. Get a Dodo panel pot and feel the difference. Its not about what you can see really, the wax is so thin you arent meant to see it. Its about the protection it offers. Sure DD SN is expensive but my last pot lasted me over 3yrs! Thats doing 2 cars regularly. No wax Megs or any other Halfrauds crap lasts that long. It also allows you to go upto 6 months without reapplying. Get the Dodo, do the prep properly, and you will be more than happy

Its held in by the screw in the ashtray, 2 at the rear (one each side by the seats) and 2 at the front on the centre console/dash (need to remove gear stick surround). You can get it off without removing the handbrake, but its a PITA. You know, the bottom of the armrest cubby is just stuck down with tape - certainy was in my MY03 car. If you remove everything from in there, if you have the phone cradle, you can remove that and then just yank the "floor" of it off and it will get you access to where the BT module is. Not got loads of space, but if you are just wanting access to run cables etc, it gives you enough room.

Its been well known for years that if you re-quote you will get a lower number - dont need to work in insurance to know that Admiral can even call up your new quote if you give them the number and match it there and then, takes all of 5 minutes to potentially save yourself hundreds of pounds

Also added to Facebook so you can show all your friends http://www.facebook.com/370ZUK#!/event. ... 2919344884

You never saw Craigs red 350z at shows then? Nice big mirror underneath

You either do a lot of short trips, boot it everywhere or your car is ill When I did the CarLimits airfield day, a tank got me there, round for the day and home and I had 21MPG on the clock, so you must seriously hoon it everwhere! My old 350z used to get on average about 30MPG and that was with a bit of A/B road and motorway driving each day. Obviously going out for a spirited drops that, but not by much, down to say 25MPG. The 370z currently gets about 28MPG but the engine isnt worn in yet and after UpRev I expect it will go up a couple more.

Coming along nicely

Theres honestly only one option to consider unless you have some special build in mine. UpRev can tune NA engines and forced induction (turbo, superchargers) engines alike. There are piggyback and replacement ECU options, but most just dont add anything over UpRev other than they cost more

This is heading to the Green Room rather quickly - shame on you lot