Chris`I

If you've cleaned it all off then yes the damage is done and wont get worse. Wouldnt hurt to get some LSP on it, be it wax or sealant.

They are saying it is legal. Whether it is right or wrong by the Highway Code is another matter I guess? /nod Although you'd have trouble arguing your case if lane 3 was available in this example. If the inside lane is clear and all outside lanes are full of slow morons then you're well within your rights to overtake on the inside.

OK so I'm a little confused. When you say "tweaked throttle map" that can be used with multimaps what is that doing? 1:1 throttle map does what it says on the tin, it moves the butterfly 1:1 with the movement of the pedal, but what does the normal tweaked map do? Get it closer to a 1:1 map, but not so much that it means cruise doesnt work any more?

+1 - its etched into the paint. You need to remove the offending (albeit very small) layer of laquer. REMEMBER: Get rid of bird poop as soon as you see it! Water based paints are soft as ***** and are eaten into very quickly and easily by bird poop. I find the best way is to wet a paper towel and leave it over the offending mess for a few minutes to soften up. Then clean off, polish (if required) and re-apply some wax/sealant to make sure its protected again.

Whoop whoop

I might have a week off between jobs Andrew, want me to pop up? Stupid vetting people didnt send me the email link, so they havent vetted me for the job, so I may not be able to start just yet. What a shame if I get an extra week off

Get someone that does it right and theres no problem. The 2 main problems are either baking them too hot, or redoing them too many times. If you go to a place with a good rep, it will cost a little more but you will have no problems

Very nice, thats what I had my eye on when walking into the LBS. It was only because they had the Stumpy reduced that I upgraded to that. Afan is meant to be very good for biking too, get us some pics of you out and about

I'll give it a go - just because I love this place

No excuses then

I'll drive it if you like Mart

Thats the one

I was meant to be in on the 7th. Dyno was borked and Mark was waiting for parts

It will be soon enough to know where you are going on the day(s)

Indeed - good work for covering my ass as I cant be 100% sure of making it on time. Most appreciated

Yes sorry should have said that. Fluid types are not interchangable. I should say that on the brake lever though

Never had a set with mineral oil before, so cant help I do think it doesnt need doing as often as DOT brakes (which is every 2yrs roughly)

Yeah I was thinking LPL might have some fillers like a glaze. Obviously the feeling from IPA goes away as soon as you add wax, then its silky smooth again

I find that the paint has a glaze type feel to it after using LP/LPL, whereas after IPA it doesnt seem quite as silky smooth, I mean its smooth, but not as glossy if that makes sense.

I'm going so you can have a gander around mine

Did you have a try of the instructors bikes at Whinlatter? I cant remember if you did. They felt very wide, but I can see the control you would get for them. Not convinced they are any good for someone short like me as they are way wider than my shoulders, but for someone taller like yourself I can see them working well Shame to hear about the wheels. You should get some Hope/Stans rims - clak clak clak clak

They plug in. And if you read DW forums, there used to be a chap that bought really good cable and sell it cheap so you can extend the lead. I think by default the lead on a DAS6 is about 3m, I bought 10m from this chap so I can do all around my car from the single socket in the garage and not have to drag around an extension lead

The great resource that is wikipedia refers to detailing as: Now as cars dont always require a clay or polish, I would refer to detailing as any proper clean where you strip any protection from the paint (wax/sealant/etc) and clean it before reapplying it. You dont need to be armed with a DA/rotary to detail a car, far from it, but I do think it requires stripping of protection and reprepping of the paintwork. Lots of details that pros do a "protection" details that involve no correction work

Pardon I have one, plus deadening, and it doesnt make anywhere near as much difference as it did in the 350z. I think a lot more of the noise (percentage wise) in the 370z is tyre roar, which you wont get rid of without swapping the Stones. Cabin is dead quiet on smooth road in the 370z which it wasnt as much in the 350z.

So just watch out for everything then Chris? I've had to pass my theory test twice now, once for the car and then again for the bike. Both were on pooters but the bike was with the hazzard test. I know what Stew means about being too quick. Its so obvious when it will happen but if you are too quick you are deemed to have "guessed it" rather than seen it. Which to me goes against the point, you are meant to guess when a hazzard may present itself (reading the road) and prepare for it. Whether it happens or not is incosequential if you have prepared properly. Needless to say the "few pints method" works well, but does infer that after a couple of pints, I still have good enough reactions according to the authorities