Dicky

Yep I know but I'd have thought the main dealer would know this as well. I will remind them though

Anyone had any problems with this. Had them bled by Kwick fit about 3yrs ago and after 3 or 4 attempts they were still spongy. Eventually got directions from my main dealer that they had to be power bled, Kwick Fit did this which did the trick. Had them bled by another main dealer again today following replacement of rear brake pipes. Driving home they felt really spongey and had to be pumped to get any breaking. Rang the garage who said it may be the master cylinder seals or the servo, even though the brakes were much better prior to bleeding. Anyone suffered similar problems?

Back brake pipes now sorted. They didn't replace the full run of pipe from each wheel as it would have meant the removal of lots of bits under the car including the fuel tank. Because of location of the pipes there was no deterioration other than at the pipe to flexi bracket in the wheel arch where Nissan had originally remove approx 2" of the plastic covering to make off the end connection. The garage put a joint in the pipe under the car, running copper pipe from that replacing the corroded piece. Total price £155. Things didn't go well though because while driving home the pedal was very very spongy and had to be pumped several years times to be able to brake. It's going back in on Tue but they seem to be suggesting the problem may be the brake cylinder or servo. Which I very much doubt as they were OK prior to the work

That's interesting. Just had the little bit of rear wheel arch rust cut out and repaired. The guy squirted loads of waxoyl between the panels which took a day or so to eventually stop dripping out. Didn't know it had to be heated first and assumed applying it while lying on your back under the car would have been quite challenging.

There's a company up here in Newcastle who charge something like £350 to to an under seal for you, which I suppose isn't bad when you consider the hassle there's going to be. Big for me problem though is will they take the care that I will, but I doubt it. I understand that wax oil runs all over and is therefore difficult to apply. I'll look into the Bilt Hamber Dynax stuff as well ilogickal1. I'll also follow the Cure Rust n paint route as well Piranah.

Looking to clean off all rust under the car, then coat with Hammerite under seal (I understand you can get it with waxoil in it) or other stuff if you've got any better suggestions. Also do you think "Cure Rust" is any good and worth using. Any advice welcome.

Don't think so because the guy said they allow something like 1hr/ side for the rears so I doubt if that would include the tank removal. If he doesn't you can come up to Newcastle to hold him while I hit him repeatedly!!!

BRICK YARD RED is the best I've seen on here so far. I'm a great believer that less is more. Bright coloured cars look as if your trying to hard to me. Just my opinion but enjoy what ever colour you settle on. Beauty is in they're of the beholder they say!

Rang a couple of main dealers and one decent independent for a ballpark figure to replace both rear brake pipes (not the flexes) with copper. Independant £350 Main 1 £200 Main 2 £145 Main dealer 2 said it wouldn't cost much more to replace the front as well, and was led me to believe it would be around £150. Booked in for Friday.

When I cleaned mine it was the former option. Mind you it was spotless after about 70k of motoring and didn't notice any change, however cleaning the throttle control valve did make a difference.

Well the rusts been cut out and new metal welded in and what a great job this guy has done. I can highly recommend him. For those in the North East the company name is Automotive Paintwork Solutions, his name is Marc Porrelli and his mobile is 07977908704. He's been doing body work since leaving school and ran his own business for over 10 yrs, Oh and he does all the work for the local Jaguar dealerships, so can't be bad. If I get this right he's cut out the rust, welded in new metal, ground this back and soldered over to seal the area, shaped then painted it. He's also treated the inside of the panels with wax oil and applied other sealants around the wheel arch. I'm more than pleased with the work, not a sign that anyone has touched it. Hope the photo bucket link works. http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/hoggy57/library/350Z%20Bodywork Edit: Can't understand this photo bucket site, either it or me is useless. Just tried the link and the pics are now out of order and have "ticks" in the picture windows. Hope you can see the good work

For the less hip amongst us, how do s the Blue tooth thingy ma jig connect and work with the Bose ?

PM'ed regarding gear lever surround

I like all of the painted efforts above, they all look professional. I would also like to retain the bubbles textured look if I spray. However my problem is that some of the bubbles at the front of the gear lever surround look like they've burst, showing a grey colour underneath. I concerned that if I just spray over the top that this damage will still be evident. I've also bought some textured wrap off eBay and may give that a go (link below), I need to make a decision here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1m-x-1-5m-Textured-Matte-Black-Vinyl-Wrap-Cars-Adhesive-Decal-Film-Bubble-Free-/141593071344?hash=item20f79acef0

PM'ed

Yeah that's one of the things that gave me confidence in him. I'll report back on how good the job turns out for the benefit of the guys up north (I live in Newcastle) best go by recommendation in these things.

Update.....bought some paint from a small local company who supply panels, paint etc to the body repair trade. Mentioned to the owner about the wheel arch rust starting to come through and he recommended a guy who carries out all of the local Jaguar main dealers repair work. He highly recommended him and said he wouldn't use anyone else. Well the cars going in this Monday for a week and he's going to cut out the rusted area, treat the inner surfaces with anti rust protection, weld in sections from new panels, completely seal the panels joining lip and respray. Total cost for both rear arches is £800. I had been quoted £1400 by Falcon so it sounds a fair price. Since the rust isn't really serious yet he said he could lead it if I wanted (no one else offered to lead it) but couldn't guarantee it, but thought it would last a couple of years or so while the cut out would last longer.

Oh my god what an ugly car! It looks like a motorists discount experiment to me. I'm sorry, not my cup of tea at all. It looks like its trying to hard. Better if it were more understated. I appreciate the engineering involved but not the look.

Thanks for that!

Thanks for the input all. Been mucho busy lately and forgot to respond. My main concern with spray painting is its resistance to scratching and would it all be in vain. What do you think the original covering on the gear knob surround and gauge panel is, some sort of wrap or paint?

Just read a post by Pauljames90 about a fault he's presently got with his Z and it made me think how useful it might be if the Forum had a section where Faults/Fixes could be posted to help the none technical members. It seems reasonable to assume that many could face the same problems over time and that a look up table or record would be very useful. Don't know how this would be set up and administered but if it's fairly easy it may be worth trying? Any comments on the idea? (Probably already available on the forum if I know my luck because as the wife is forever telling me when looking for things it's generally right under my nose)

Can't help I'm afraid but Tricky Ricky's advice seams sensible. Can you post the cause when you get it sorted because it can help other none technical members in the future. I'm thinking that a location on the forum where faults and causes suffered by members can be posted could be valuable?

I feared that may be the case. Have you done it yourself and discovered it's better to rub it all down?

Anyone spray painted their centre console from gear knob surround up. I've just sprayed my drivers door arm rest control switch panel with Halfords "Rubberised" paint and am quite pleased with it. I was wondering if I commit to the gear knob surround etc, which has that bubble effect finish, do you have to rub it all down or can you just spray on top. Like many others the bubbles around the gear knob surround are starting to burst exposing a grey underside and it's looking a bit tatty ?

Well here it is, I finally bought it and may I say one of Patek Philippes finest watches,worth every penny of the £80 asked for. Don't get JEALOUS now!