StephenG

has me at my old address, but my wife at my house. I think I've just been evicted

I had a look at getting this smoothed in also. Price was realistic, but I have a *slight* problem in that it isn't 100% straight, due to the slightly different heights of the NISMO exhaust. So I'd have to get a small bit of pipe-bending done first, so I went off the idea and concentrated on other stuff...

Shiny! Also, I never knew the Z delivered 0bhp at 1700rpm

I did say *slightly* more jittery!!! Again, this is down to driving style (aka in my case, ability!). I'm not particularly light footed - I'm very much pedal down and let the car catch up. The Twin Turbo will light up the rears with the slightest blip, and even though this happens with the Supercharger, if you keep to the lower revs the behaviour is much more similar to stock. For those of you with the touch of Jenson Button it won't be an issue, but it would to me. Again, personal preference. I'm gathering by the fact that you didn't pick any holes in the rest of what I said that you agree?

I am in correspondence with them directly - I'll let you know on here when I get a reply.

Fave : Tie between my stealth fake floor in the front cubby hole (push it down, and the navi turns into a colour rear camera!), or my Kinetix SSV (+35bhp, +30lb/ft, very bling, and a quarter of the retail price) Next : Like Prescience, SC tuning DOES count. Though a clutch might arrive first! Turkey : I bought a seatback organiser from performance nissan. What was the point? I have the seats so far back they are flush with the cubby holes, making them redundant.

I like to think of them as 'gills'

ouch

What he said, basically. Driving style comes into it - if you want your power on tap at all times then a Twin Turbo setup gives you that, but it has the disadvantage of being slightly more jittery, more fuel hungry, and putting a greater load on the engine at most times. The Supercharger doesn't really have the power until you start creeping over 2000 revs, and then only really noticably over 3000 revs, which means it's not immediately available unless you drive in the permanent high rev bands, but then will be less stressful on the engine and better on fuel when driving normally. That's why I like the SC - you choose how it effects your car on the basis of how you choose to drive.

What did you do? I thought it was a mild knock, nothing major... PU doesn't crack or shatter like FG (it's malleable), though it'll tear or warp, but you really have to be going some to do it! Is paintshield an armorfend style clear plastic protection film, yeah? I gather it will have to be cut to shape for it. Anyway. We can start a new thread on chickenwire if you like. It clearly *is* arguable, because if it wasn't, I'd agree with you I have two drilled 2mm thick aluminium sheets ready to go in my rear apertures - just need to find an aftermarket foglight to go into them too

open drive mouth cuddle / threesome ball tickle t-shirts cry shake pull laugh strip slap germany fight tyre grope car naked minge wedgie anal dyke kill camera orgasm robot letch yoga wingmirror And yes I did have a bit of spare time this afternoon interestingly 'check oil' puts it in a closed loop

Can you add Middlehurst to the list of Stillen installers? they've done the majority of the UK cars with Stillen SC's IIRC!

That's arguable How can I see the date posted? You mean Jan 2nd the 2006? I thought you might have had the lip repaired over Xmas. Not tempted to get a PolyUrethane lip to save any future accidents? And just out of interest, who's Lester? Is he the UK distributor for this kit now?

the way the front bumper continues the bonnet lines is superb

chickenwiretastic buddy Are those old pictures or did you get a new front lip?

here's my car's blog: www.stephengrant.com/350z If you like it, give me a shout Stephen

Sounds likely - many cases of hydrolock on the old Gen 7 Celicas were in fact water contact tripping out the MAF, resulting in the ECU shutting down the engine.

Just been reading that, very helpful. A few questions though; 1. What's 'PWM' stand for? 2. Is Output B the aux fuel pump? Because both the map Matt sent me and the map Dorian sent me have the fuel pump start pressure (Output A) at 0 and the run time at 0 as well... confusing 3. Is Output A not used then? 4. The big difference between the customer database Matt sent me and the database Dorian sent me is that the 'over pressure' on the Output setting is -3.99 on the stock map and 17 on the db Matt sent me. These sound wildly out from eachother - so does this value do anything?

Great to know Can anyone tell me how you upload and download maps from the R4 software? Might reconnect the laptop and see if I can 'read' the settings from the box.... but it's not obvious (to me!) on the software how to read it.

well, it might be. What I don't know yet is wether we can write values OK, but it's looking much more promising. What I really should do is give a BIG thankyou to both Dorian and Matt from CPRacing - they've been a massive help. Thank you both Stephen

Box dragged out next to battery Attached to USB to serial converter Plugged into my mininote Video of R4 Software showing pressure 2.3Mb - http://www.stephengrant.com/350z/video/R4pressure.mpg Video of R4 Software showing chart recorder 2.8Mb - http://www.stephengrant.com/350z/video/ ... corder.mpg Video of R4 Software showing all values 2.7Mb - http://www.stephengrant.com/350z/video/R4allvalues.mpg Video of Engine bay on idle 5Mb - http://www.stephengrant.com/350z/video/enginebay.mpg

OK. Quick update to date. Vortech installed. On base map (or whatever map Baptist had it last on). Car runs OK, but big holes around 5000 revs up. Take it to Abbey to get it tuned. They have problems trying to get R4 software talking to SS box. If they write values the box trips out, in 'limp mode' limiting the engine to 4000 revs. They cannot see any live values. I pick up the car, attempt to get the comms going myself. I get a USB to serial for my laptop, install the software, and attach it this afternoon. And I see values live! Hence must be some sort of problem with Abbey's laptop? I don't have the time (or balls) to attempt to write any values down to the SS box, and I'm not sure how to UPLOAD them anyway (can't see that option on R4 software). So - here's my progress so far... pics and videos in following post :

No idea, as one end of my cable is USB. The serial cable Abbey were using was straight through - it was the one you specified from Maplin.

Actually, what would be REALLY useful would be if you could tell me if *you've ever seen live values out of your SS box via R4* because that way I will know if the problems I am having are unique to me, or the same as yours. I am still trying to diagnose the problem and this sort of information is critical - if my problems can be recreated elsewhere the chances are it is not an equipment failure.

Not in any manual they give you from purchase. Dorian - I'd contact them if I could do anything. But until I can actually connect my laptop to my own car, what can I do? I've told Matt this on email already. The reason why I am chasing pinouts are to see if the UTEC solution would be a straight plug onto the UK car.