rtbiscuit

i thought it was for 20

I'm looking at getting a set of these for when my wheels have been refurbed, but i know very little about them http://z-store.co.uk/index.cfm?fuseacti ... entCat=263 reason i ask is that recently when i took my front wheels off to do some work i used the bar that comes with the car i.e. spare wheel remover etc. well it damaged the paint in the lug nut holes, and i don't want to do the same to the new refurbed wheels. (my fault i should have used a proper socket and breaking bar) what i want to know is: Will these work with the rays? will i have a silly amount of metal sticking out from each lug nut hole? how exactly do you put them on, is there a special tool or something? i would just go for some standard lug nuts in Red, but the rays and the other Team 5Zigen ones don't look like they have a locking wheel nut to them, or do they? i don't want the 4 red 1 silver look per wheel, but i also don't want to be without a locking nut either.

good for you i'm hoping next week the bodyshop will tell me mines ready to be fitted, am hoping to coincide it with the service at the same time

i emailed them to my dad, he's a manager for an engineering firm and i'm sure he'll see the funny side. another favorite is office terms like: seagull management = fly in crap on everyone from a great height and then fly out. percussive maintenance = hit it to fix it can't remember any of the others, but there was a whole list of them

would say thats all 4, my rays refurb is going to cost me £330 but only cos i've got a red lip going on and thats an extra £80

I would have to be at my mums with the bell... she looks after me If I rang a bell at my house all i'd get is a big ol Slap is your partner and mine related

i have a fix that i use for most pronblems, an dwhen i had an mr2 roadster (it rattled alot) it worked for that too. cures most problems works every time. best fix i've done in years i think i might patent it. ..... turn the radio up

interesting, thats the second blow out we've had in a month

in the last 2 i can't work out why they can't find that pedal in the middle called a BRAKE!!!!!!

those bricks under the sills aren't going to be good either. i'm guessing no locking wheel nuts were fitted?

to be honest the Zed is a bit raw engine wise, i find, its a proper meaty engine, you have to work the gear change etc. my guess is you just need to get used to it. ground kit might help (its a kit of 5 wires that go from the negative terminal on the battery to various points around the car engine bay to increase the battery's earthing, should smooth out some of the electrical things.)

fair doo's

just look slike a bit of wire to me , i think it would be better without the wire

is that so your nuts don't loosen

should be good, go for it

you aint going to walk away from that one

read before and very funny

is aberdeen a bit of a financial hot bed then, i hadn't realized so much cash was washing around up there? i thought aberdeen was really rough

21 dinks over 2 doors, have you been driving through an army shooting range or something? good price per dink though

i think as part of the **** take we started posting random bloke pics, you need to read the thread to get the full effect

i always thought american automotive companies had a bad reputation for safety. weren't there cars that got nick named rolling bbq's because if they were hit up the rear the fuel tank exploded as it earthed out on something. for me the image of american cars is that they are cheaply built to maximize profit. even the latest ford GT was using leaf spring suspension which is what we used to use on horse and carts. american muscle was good for going fast in a straight line which suits the country well, because i don't thin there are that many corners when traveling coast to coast. but european and japanese cars had the best handling and chassis characteristics.

don't worry about the horn, i ran mine for months without it, the only way they'd know is if you tried to honk at someone, and i don't think you'll give yourself away

lol i know where your coming from, i came down this morning and looked at at think, god i've made a horrible mess of this, its going to cost me a fortune to replace it all , but i spent an hour with a stanley blade and got rid of the excess, and the bits that had lifted and it looked better, and now i've dropped on 2 more coats of top coat resin its looking pretty good. have used a hair drier (don't tell the wife) to get rid of any air bubbles and its looking pretty good. as far as i can tell the weave is all dead straight and has wrapped nicely on the B pillars so should look pretty spot on. having 3 coats on top has made a difference, was going to leave it at too as i had mixed all the solution up, but i bunged it and the paint brush in the freezer and got it out 4 hours later and was able to put 1 last coat on. was pretty chuffed with that maneuver just got to have a go polishing tomorrow, far more confident now it has 3 coats on, as i shouldn't touch Carbon at all. but i don't think i want to try it again. was contemplating doing the arm rests with the switches next, but i'll wait and see

glad you got the decals alright, they look really good mate, and i'm glad you like them engine bay is looking spectacular, your heading in to shire country soon

sounds like a system glitch if it doesn't reappear i wouldn't worry