Keith D

Does anyone know where I can buy just the cap for a pressure bleeder to fit the 370z? I want to flush the brake fluid and my sealey bleeder has a screw cap type. I don't want to spend a lot of money on a full set I'll never use. I've found this but no clue if it will fit: BRAKE BLEEDER CAP FOR HYUNDAI MITSUBISHI NISSAN - CT5868 | eBay I've also found this. Brake Bleeder Cap 90 degrees Adaptor FITS SOME Hyundai Mitsubishi Nissan | eBay I've tried the plastic universal one before and it just bends and makes a brake fluid mess everywhere.

Looks good. Does it retain the connection to the USB in the cubby?

I did a search, sorry if this has been discussed before. I've seen in a few places online suggesting the auto transmission is torque limited to around 400 Nm although I can't find anything concrete or referenceable. There is also a video on youtube from the states where the workshop fitted an infiniti Q50/60 transmission to a boosted 370z because of this. Has anyone fitted the Z1 supercharger kit on an auto, and what if any mods are necessary? Before anyone asks I have an auto because I'm 6 foot 4 and very few performance cars are designed with people like me in mind and allow leg and knee room for operating a clutch!

I have to say, out of all the cars I worked on the brakes for, the z is an absolute doddle. You could do a pad change in literally a few minutes a corner. Which is why I was surprised how poorly the previous owner / Nissan dealer had allowed mine to get. Park brake gunked up with chunks of crumbly dust literally falling off, same inside the calipers, grooves in the pads gunked up, bits of brake pad breaking away at the corners, 3 of the 4 discs worn under size and 1 with excess runout. Shocking really, the service record has a major service dealer stamp less than 3,000 miles ago.

So what outcome are you looking for? Repair, sell, scrap? All 3 are easy (sorry if this sounds blunt)

It all looks easily fixable to me, although if you get a garage to do it the labour will be high. At the rear it wants kidney brackets and the flimsy cross panel (or just chuck that away), and at the front the subframe (earlier post from Alex) Honestly a weekend at home on jack stands will do it. The rest of it looks like it just needs a jet wash down, wire brush, coat of rust convertor, and spray wax. If you do it yourself spray WD40 over every nut bolt and screw your touching at least twice over 24 hours before starting, and don't gun them off use a breaker bar gently to break the corrosion first. JMHO

Can I ask, what's the difference between this.... 370z Z34 Invidia Gemini Cat-Back Exhaust System - TORQEN And this....? G37 370GT Invidia Gemini Rolled Stainless Steel Tip Cat-Back Exhaust System - Infiniti Q60 Coupe CV36 - TORQEN

Gotta spend it before my wife gets any ideas like a new sofa... 🤣

I plan to order a pair next month, along with an Invidia Gemini, unless of course you are still offering 5% discount for Oct ? Well my mum used to say don't ask you don't get 🤣

Axle click kit and DBA discs and pads from Torqen, and 5 litres of Motul 5.1 should keep me busy for the weekend 😁

Nothing I care to share. My Mrs came along for a change, had my phone, doesn't know how to use it, and took a few including photos of gravel, her feet, the sky, and one of me eating 🤣

The marks on the tensioner are ok. Personally though I would change a 10 year old belt, but then again I find doing work on cars fun and go out of my way to find things to fix, and therefore am by definition an idiot 🤣

Worth a watch?

I have no experience, but it's also on my long list of maybe dos so interested in answers. My reason is wanting to drop the subframe to take care of any potential areas of future corrosion, so it's a sensible opportunity to either improve or be proactive and change whilst it's down. I quite liked the idea of the Z1 collar kit which I presume works with the standard bushes. Its also true though over time bushes break down so fitting OEM new on an older car can also make a huge difference.

What have people found as the best wind back tool? I have a well used 30+ year old wind back kit but it won't fit opposed piston calipers it's for single piston floating calipers. Don't really want to use flat screwdriver wrapped in cloth, but there doesn't seem much available other than cheap and nasty ratchet things most Amazon reviews say are poor quality and fall apart.

Twas a fun low key chill out event. Maybe 50-75 various JDM - Scoobies, Evos, RX8s, MX5s, some early stuff, R35 turned up as I was leaving. Everyone chatty. Mixed aged owners no chavs which suits me being an old git. Cafe serving home made pizza. Shame I was the only Z I know there are some 350s in the area I've spotted them on the road before.

Welcome 👍

Welcome

JDM evening at Cullompton Refuel on Friday 11th, 5-9pm. Providing its not raining I plan to go along... well the advert does say the food bar will be selling home make pizzas and loaded nachos

How did this end up? What did it cost you to repair? I've spotted a finger nail size bubble appearing on my door, similar area. The dealer warranty manager was very friendly and sent photo to Nissan UK but they've said no, there is no proof its corroded from behind rather then being a pin hole damage, and paint warranty was only 3 years from new. Took it to 2 local bodyshops, both want to dig out any corrosion, treat, and respray door and feather into wings (do a proper repair) but have priced it at £3,000 and £2,200 respectively. Seems mighty expensive. I figure I'll use some rust convertor for now and touch up bottle, until I figure out where I'm going with the project.

As I say I've never heard of the new regulation that parts must be new, its worth having a read of the MOT regulation yourself to check. Subframes are covered by Appendix A so section 10 Acceptable Methods of Repair applies MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) We know the inspector has made one error already, personally I'd take it somewhere else for a retest, and I'd ask them if they can take me under the car and show me exactly what parts have failed. Take a photo and maybe experienced owners on here can advise further.

Just my two penny worth... new to Zs but not new to mechanics.... Parts don't have to be new, they have to be in a suitable condition to pass an MOT. Something like this looks okay (assuming its the right one) degrease it, wire brush on a drill, rust convertor paint, a couple of coats of chassis black / wax spray in the box, and its ready to be fitted NISSAN 350Z MK1 Z33 2003 - 2009 FRONT SUBFRAME 76386 | eBay Depends on your experience / tools / work area if you could DIY a swap. I reckon it would take me a long weekend for the front if I did it myself Rear is aluminium, as post above and this clearly shows, your MOT inspector has had a mare with that one 2005 NISSAN 350Z V6 Z33 3.5 PETROL MK1 3DRS COUPE REAR SUBFRAME (VQ35DE) | eBay W brace and kidney brackets are very easy swaps, it would take me no more than a couple of hours if I did it myself My best guess a garage would want maybe 2 days?

I'm 6'4, I don't have the problem of banging my knees, but with the seat fully back the steering wheel feels too far away, and ideally would extend in reach by 2-3 inches. Has anyone come across a mod to change the reach? Spacer or something. I did have a scan of threads but couldn't see anything, apologies if this has been discussed before ad infinitum.

New cars are great, until you ponder how much money you flush down the toilet in depreciation. My last 6 cars were all new, 1 x Landrover, 1 x Audi a6, 1 x C class, 3 x E class, and I reckon I probably threw away £100 - £150k, money that could have instead sat in a share ISA growing at 13% a year compound. I'm an idiot. I'll drive an EV when there is no other option.

2015, auto, 31k miles. I paid over the odds but I wanted a full main dealer service history as I hoped it would give me more chance of having a good base to start from, and having driven nothing but autos for the last 18 years I didn't want to start with all that gear stick stuff now. I bought it as a toy for sunny days, it's garaged when not in use. I'll likely only put 2k miles on it a year. Paint and interior is in very good condition and I thought I'd be able to start right away with bolting on goodies. However the underside is a bit ugly (so much for the main dealer service history confidence) the w brace needs replacing.... as do the kidney braces.... the original exhaust is on its last legs.... just about everything has a film of either rust or gunk on it.... so this autumn instead of bolting on goodies I will be on my back disassembling suspension, subframe etc for thorough corrosion treatment. While I'm at it I might as well do the diff bushes, subframe bushes etc. What is my vision for the car? Not sure. In the past I've built a VW beetle with a Rover V8 engine in the front and turned a rusty MOT failure Capri 2.8 into a concours winner, so this build could go anywhere! I'll drop photos as I go. Thanks for reading!