Ben–350Z

I have the same sizes - although on 9.5J / 10J - seems absolutely fine. From what I understand, it's changing the difference in overall tyre diameter front to rear that upsets the TCS - so if you dropped both profiles to 35 for a less balloony look, you should be okay. Though that may make your speedo read a little high.

I used Wheel Genie to sort the wheels on my last two cars, they're in Huntingdon IIRC. Fixed some pretty heavy kerbing on my Focus ST's wheels, like new when they came back.

Sounds to me like the lamp's dying. Haha, "shed any light"

Sometimes, being stuck in traffic isn't so bad:

I know the feeling - I think I might have finished my clutch off in a moment of childish exuberance... Got to work early, empty car park.... Yah. Tyres have better grip on the road than the clutch does on the flywheel. But yes, one of those things if the gearbox is coming off, might as well do both. I see lots of things about changing the clutch slave cylinder at the same time..?

Damn that sucks. Hope it can be welded! On the plus side, excuse for a lighter flywheel

I had a V6 Mondeo with those, too - used to corrode like mad around the valves. Of course the wheels were also made of cheese anyway... The other thing they suffered from was corrosion on the inside, sort of on the part where the tyre bead sits. Guess that let air between the actual alloy and the "finished" surface. Should be noticed by anyone changing the tyre, but could be a possibility, maybe.

Hey, been folliwing this (and your DIY topic) with interest. At one point, I was wondering maybe one day (with money, time and a CNC machine or two ) if I could do it to mine, and kind of had a thought about cutting the "grooves" out of the bonnet, and replacing those with mesh to get cold air in there. Not sure if that'd let too much water in as well, though...

Ah, looks like you've just come up with what I replied to your PM with I think you'll be fine on the rear arches - mine only just caught, and at an et12 sit 8mm further out than your et20 would. FWIW, I didn't find rolling the arches too much of a problem.

Those look amazing.

I have 18x9.5 et25 with a 5mm spacer on my front (so the same as et20), and they're fine. 255/40R18 tyre. I think it's sitting around 10mm lower than stock through age... At the back I'm running 18x10 et12 with 275/40 tyres - those did rub, so needed some slight arch rolling. You should have around 13mm more space than me, which should be well clear. Loving those wheels, btw.

No problem - I look forward to seeing them fitted

Yea, I didn't really want to do mine at first - but Tarmac could only get hold of one 18x10 ET35. And that would have needed spacers anyway. Got away without the roll for about 3 months before just the right combination of stuff in the boot, passenger and borderline ploughed Cambridgeshire roads caused a problem. But FWIW rolling them was pretty easy, and only about an afternoon to do.

Figure it's about time to add mine… Wheels: Rota GTR-D: front: 18x9.5 ET25, rear: 18x10 ET12 275/40 Spacers: front: 5mm (brake clearance), rear: none Tyres: Hankook Ventus S1 evo 2: front: 255/40, rear: 275/40 Bodywork: front: none, rear: rolled arches Camber: front: not checked, rear: approx -1.75° Suspension: lowered by 10 years' abuse (around 10mm at the front)

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Not sure about your fronts, but I have 18x10 ET+12 rears, with 275/40 tyres, and I just needed to roll those - think you'll be okay with ET+22. EDIT: Here's how it was before rolling

Interesting… I did not notice that when I was looking - like I say, it was my backup plan if I couldn't get the factory ones going again. The rewiring seems to be taking the two low speed wires from the OEM fans to one of the new fans, and the two high speed ones to the other. So rather than two fans running slowly, or two fans running quickly you just have one at full speed, or two at full speed. Suppose that's what makes those fans cheaper. I can't get to the wiring diagram right now (silly intellectual property laws) but from what I remember of it, whats being said here and on my350z makes sense.

Wow, sounds like you're really having a rough time at the moment. Weird, though… they were spinning, and burning out at the same time? °_0 Possibly the low speed contacts were fine, then something slightly shorting out the high speed ones? I take it you removed all the paper clips if you had those to hold the brushes back whilst putting it back together… For replacements, I believe the stock response is PM Zmanalex Though FWIW, when I was having problems, I basically decided that if I couldn't fix my existing ones, I'd get the Mishimoto shroud and fans for way less than replacement motors seemed to be going for: https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/cooling/radiators-fans/2093-350z-de-mishimoto-aluminium-fan-shroud-kit-mmfs-350z-03.html

Wow, that sounds like a sub-optimal day Mine had a total lack of cooling fans when I first got it - decided it'd be worth having a go at cleaning them. When I got the motors apart, only one (out of 8) brushes could actually move. So it looks like it's possible for them to both die. As for removing the hose, I lost less than half a litre of coolant when I removed it. Did have only the front of the car on axle stands, so that probably helped. I got away with just refilling the top of the radiator with roughly how much came out, and haven't had any problems since. That was about 15 months ago. Suppose the coolant thing depends how much you lost yesterday…

No problem, glad you got it working! Fair enough soldering it straight in - I just like keeping things reversible as much as possible. Best not annoy the neighbours _too_ much. I hear moving house is even more expensive than owing a Zed

Sounds like you've got some of the questions I came up with after ripping out my Bose stereo because it didn't work… Starting with question 2 - When I did mine, I got the ISO leads but, rather like you're suggesting, cut them up, together with the one from the new stereo, added some solder and ended up with an Alpine -> Nissan cable. That way I _could_ revert it, if needed. But soldering the aftermarket one straight into the car should also be fine if putting it back to stock is never going to worry you. Making your own adapter cable is also a good time to remove any stuff that isn't needed - there's a remarkable lack of space in the dashboard. With regard to which wires to connect, take a look at the workshop manuals here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/ : find the right year, and IIRC the “av.pdf” should have everything you need somewhere in it. Now back to your first question - as I understand it, if you have the Bose system, there's no cables from the back of the stereo to the speakers. It takes an unamplified signal from the stereo to the boot, then it's amplified there and sent to the speakers. There's various discussions about using the pre-amplified outputs on the aftermarket stereo, vs hacking into the amplified ones to send to the Bose amp - see "Buster's mod" (https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/58947-reduced-sound-out-put-after-replacing-oe-bose/). I guess that's what the pac-roem in your last question effectively does - boost the signal to the Bose amplifier a bit. I didn't do that, because sending a speaker level signal into an amplifier input just seems wrong to me, so used the pre-amplified outputs from the stereo. I did find it a bit quiet, and also didn't sound that great so ended up replacing the whole lot not long after. Having said all that, it shouldn't be too much effort to run speaker cables out from the stereo, if you don't want to get into separate amplifier territory. Just getting across into the doors that's a pain. Point 3, I don't know - as long as its a good connection that won't shake apart (i.e. not twisted together and electrical tape), and the cables aren't too thin it should all be fine. Though FWIW, when I was looking at where to put my replacement amplifier, I measured the impedance of the cabling from the Bose amp in the boot to the speaker in the front door - I seem to remember the round trip being about 2 ohms - so with a 4 ohm speaker, that's a third of the amp's output power just heating up the speaker cables. I found somewhere else for the amp, and ran bigger cables. For steering wheel controls, I think you do need a box to translate what the car's "saying" to what the stereo can understand. Guess there'd probably be no harm trying to just wire it straight up and see what happens. If it helps, here's the kit I bought: https://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=4487, and then spliced into the harness that came with my stereo. Left the steering wheel control bit as it was. Hopefully at least some of that clears things up for you…

No worries @m4mm13. After a lot of indecision, I actually went with Rota GTR-Ds. Just couldn't quite see how the lip with the bolts works with my long term plan… Still really like those as well, though!

Car looks awesome - really liking those wheels. I've actually been talking to Tarmac about getting a set… Just wondering what tyre sizes you're running, and is that with 5mm spacers as has been suggested to me?