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G1en@waxandshine

Trader
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About G1en@waxandshine

  • Rank
    Z Fanatic
  • Birthday 08/04/1981

Location

  • Location
    Pontefract

Recent Profile Visitors

512 profile views
  1. Garage clearout

    After upgrading many parts i need to clear these out. All from 2008HR at 65k miles unless stated, all prices collected from Pontefract. I can arrange delivery on smaller items for £5 Rear differential / pumpkin £125 I purchased from Andy on here a doner diff when i upgraded to a kazz 2-way so it could be built off site first by a specialist then put straight in. This would be ideal for same job or direct replacement, no issues when removed. HR OEM air intake hoses/tubes £30 removed these when changing to silicone mishimoto versions. OEM rear camber arms £30 I have sanded down and resprayed them satin black. OEM air filters £20 Now most would just chuck these away but they are as new. Literally put in at service and i changed for K&N filters less than 500 miles later. OEM front camber arms £40 Just removed these after fitting adj arms purchased from zmanalex. OEM rear privacy boot attachment £25 Rear carpet £10 has 2 little slits in where brackets went through to hold boot divider. Michelin Pilot Supersport Tyres £100 pair of 245/40 R18 done around 4k miles in 2 years. Michelin Pilot Supersport Tyres £100 pair of 275/40 R18 same as prev done around 4k miles in 2 years, listed separately as not a common size but if anyone wants to take both pairs i will let them go for £150. OEM spacesaver spare wheel £50 never been used as far as i can tell.
  2. The great (condensed) fallout remover test

    This “condensed” version is now on the wax and shine website along with the option to purchase the winning product.
  3. New member - no 350z yet

    Welcome along
  4. Notchy Gearbox

    A common issue and usually resolved by changing the gear oil and adding molyslip in with it. If that doesnt sort it you prob have bigger problems.
  5. Rear crossmember brace rust :(

    It dries like most other waxes, your car bonnet isnt sticky when you wax it but it never fully cures so as to self heal like mentioned before.
  6. Hi Everyone :-)

    Welcome along
  7. Rear crossmember brace rust :(

    There are various options. There is not a definitive lifespan on wax as it will lessen over time naturally but the wax does self heal where paints when chipped wont, so potentially expose the metal. The S50 is for cavities so out of direct contact. I sprayed it into any hole (easy tiger) underneath and behind arch liners etc. The UB is for exposed areas underneath and is a brown/black coating so you can see where you have used it, i put this onto any exposed metal on the underside. The UC is similar to UB but clear so better for areas you see that you dont want to turn brown, i used it on the suspension components, in the arches and cills, and behind front/rear bumpers. The hydrate 80 converts and protects already rusted surfaces. I didnt need this as the underside was very clean but for older DE models this will sort any existing rust issues. Have a look online. The products get great reviews and i was very happy with using them.
  8. Rear crossmember brace rust :(

    I have undersealed mine last year and used bilt hamber dynax range after scouring the web for reviews. I now sell the very stuff i used. Below is link to a kit but everything is available individually on the site also. https://waxandshine.co.uk/shop?olsPage=products%2Fbilt-hamber-underseal-kit
  9. Getting my first car soon and need help!

    The car is great but not really a recommended first car. Without wanting to sound like Dad ( im only in my 30's) The insurance is gonna be through the roof. Only a few companies will do it, if you are 18 or so, and its gonna be a think of a number, add a nought and treble it kind of quote. Then you have due to the age, (as with many older cars) the fact that the clutch, exhaust, gallery gaskets, arms and many other common probs could need replacing at any point so you need to have a grand or 2 contingency funds available or you could be left with a great looking car sat on the drive not moving. Saying all that, i'm sure it will pull you the girls (or boys) shame there's no back seats, and if you can afford it, go for it, just don't go driving silly in the wet until your comfortable with the car. Dad advice over.
  10. Hello, New Member

    Welcome along
  11. May Offer

    Just to add to this, and only while stocks last, Gtechniq CSL (crystal serum light) and EXOv3 are £20 off RRP on the website for the 50ml larger size Making them £65 and £46 respectively, almost the same price as the 30ml size and you can still use the free polish offer!
  12. The ilogikal1 test thread

    If you can condense the 3 year test into something i can put onto the web site I can throw a couple of free bottles your way! Seeing as i sell the stuff, will make a good newsletter/future promo option.
  13. Engine temps

    Still on oem fans, like i put, i have had no issues with mishi rad, def does the job as it gets lava grade hot but that adds more heat into engine bay, at least its not inside the engine is my view.
  14. clutch kit recommendation

    I have the HR version of the Extreme kit, very good upgrade to stock although clutch is much firmer so your left leg gets a good workout in traffic. many say about the noise but if you have an aftermarket exhaust like me its not noticeable over that anyway.
  15. Engine temps

    Yep, its an inherent by-product of a big engine crammed into a "small" space. Mine gets ridiculously hot. I have a Mishimoto Rad (although many say this is worse than OEM) and mishimoto oil cooler. Temp gauge has never been above midway even on track but even after just a short drive you can open the bonnet and cook your breakfast on the engine if you wanted. Remember I had the car in the garage once after a long drive, left the bonnet up to help it cool down, I was down to my undies after 10 mins it was that warm in garage due to engine heat. I think a vented bonnet would def help get rid of some of the heat build up.
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