ThreeFiddyZ

As much as I'd love to tuck my Z away for the Winter, its a daily driver so I have to use it. Although I religiously fully warm it up and down again on each drive Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

+1 on buying either good used oem replacement sensors or brand new oem sensors. You buy cheap you buy twice I'm afraid. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

I'd be interested on anyones ideas for this too. Alternatively if you're interested I believe ZmanAlex can source you OEM replacement fans, used or new (although new is expensive). Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

If you keep deep discharging any car battery frequently, it causes the battery to collapse internally and lose its capacity. In the long run it'll make it harder to jump start and it will eventually die. For a healthy battery a 30 minute drive is ample to top up the battery. If the battery is knackered, who knows how long it will take to charge on a drive. It still won't hold its capacity though. I'd find another way of powering the dashcam otherwise you'll keep going through batteries. Maybe not as fast with a new battery though. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

Standard Code Reader won't read and report an airbag fault as its seperate to the main fault code storage for the ECU. I would get the Airbag system fault codes pulled and read before you start replacing parts. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

I'd check the AC System for Leaks, failing that check your AC Radiator. Check your Cooling Fans start and stop as well to be on the safe side. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

I had to Flash my Sony Xperia Z2 with a custom version of Android after hours of testing and troubleshooting to get my Mobile Phone to work with and stay connected to the Z Bluetooth Module. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

Are you using this on a Mobile Device? You are correct in that NDS II is the right version for the Z. However, I purchased NDS II for my Windows Laptop and I also purchased and use a Vagcom KKL USB Cable (£10-£15 on EBay) for a direct connection and Ive used it on many occasions without issue to connect to the Z's ECU and run diagnostic tasks/gather data to log files. I'd highly recommend this method if you're going to be doing a lot with NDS as although NDS supports ELM and Generic Bluetooth adapters results may vary. I have to admit though that I do use the Torque App on my Android Smartphone along with an ELM Bluetooth Adapter without issue (bar the odd hiccup). Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

I had this before (a hard start condition once warm) on a BMW. Different car I know, but it was also the camshaft position sensors. Is it throwing any codes or have you had any EML's? Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

Glad to hear you got it sorted! Better hide those jump cables from the other half Lol. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

Dampers replaced however ticking sound persists. Dampers needed replacing anyway as car had a quiet popping noise at idle which has gone. I'm starting to suspect top end rattle, any common faults? Oil has never been run low in my ownership, I have religiously checked it every 500 miles. And the ticking started at least 10000 miles after buying the car when it was on 54K. How do the lifters work on the car? Could it be an oil circulation problem? Pressures appear normal. Doesn't appear to be ticking from very front of engine its directly over the plenum/cams. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

Hi Zmanalex, thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately I'm reading this as I'm right in this position now, Lol! I guess my only option now is to seek out another pair or one damper? Do you have a RH Damper plus lines available? Do you only sell as a pair? Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

I've got hold of some replacement Dampers so I'll get these fitted and then monitor, cheers.

Yeah, I'm pretty happy with the setup. I'm going to buy a set of rears next.

Sold, Cheers

I get this with mine when I drive in a spirited manner, the exhaust gets hot and smells and the sides of the transmission tunnel inside the car get hot, I've put mine down to the cats or exhaust parts. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the suggestions chaps. In the end I settled for stoptech drilled and grooved discs and stoptech pads. So far so good. Sent from my Xperia Z2 using Tapatalk

PM Sent, very interested in these if you've still got them? Dibs? :-)

Hi, No, not replaced any Fuel Dampers as of yet. Just wondered if anyone had any thoughts on the video. How difficult is it to change the dampers?

Hi All, The issue appears to have got worse since I made this topic previously. I've uploaded the video below, I'd appreciate any thoughts on this. If not then please give suggestions of any known 350z specialists who'd have the best chance of diagnosing this or are familiar with the problem, I know of Horsham Developments and Abbey but they're both quite far for me. Cheers

Adrian, Thank you very much for the quick response and for sorting whilst you're on Holiday; I can appreciate that. Please don't take my feedback as an attack, I was trying to be constructive so I hope it helps in the future. I shall await the parts tomorrow and the refunded shipping

Welcome to the Forum, nice choice. I've always wanted to try a Z Roadster with a nice exhaust, would be able to hear even more of it.. :-)

I have to say I'm very disappointed with my experience given the excellent reviews above and also on Torqen's Website. I ordered Discs, Pads and an Air Filter to the tune of £400 on the morning of Friday 19th August. I then contacted Torqen/Adrian on the afternoon of Monday 22nd August as I still hadn't received a delivery update or tracking reference. I was then told the Filter I'd ordered was on back order from Apexi, and that the pads had arrived and the discs would be with Adrian shortly to be sent out. I opted for a different filter and was informed the items should be delivered on the 23rd/24th. It's now the 29th, I still don't have a courier tracking reference, or any update via Email/Phone and I'm still without the items. I'm unable to contact anyone though the Website, and I'm unable to PM Adrian on here as it returns the error that the account is not accepting any further messages his Inbox is full. The only communication I received thoughout the order was a receipt/invoice confirming my account has been debited. I've had no update from Torqen themselves on the status of my order, or an apology for the delay and I was only provided with an update when I contacted Torqen myself, and what I have been promised has not been met. I've tried to be as constructive in my critiscism as I can but it's very frustrating having spent £400 on parts (which isn't a small amount in my eyes) and over a week later I don't even have a courier tracking reference or an order status update/Email communication to show for it. Given the fact that this is my first experience with Torqen I don't think I'll be returning.

Thanks Luke, Issue is all resolved now though as I've posted above :-) Maybe it goes without saying that we should always use genuine Nissan parts, however a lot of people like me will find that you have limited options when sourcing a new Clock Spring/Squib for the 350z. I just wanted to let people know that the pattern Ebay parts aren't correct even if they are listed as compatible. I hope it helps someone and avoids them the pain I've been through.

Hi All, Just wanted to post to let others know what I've found and how I've resolved the issue. It turns out that the Generic Clockspring Replacements via Ebay aren't compatible with the 350z. This is because at the rear of the Clockspring, a steering angle sensor for the Traction/Stability Control is present. The Non-Genuine Clocksprings don't physically latch into the steering angle sensor. This means if you fit a Non-Genuine Clockspring for the 350z, as it will not physically latch and turn the steering angle sensor along with the steering wheel/clockspring assembly, it will not give it a reading, which is what produced my above error codes and erratic traction/stability control behaviour. This problem was exaggerated because as the car was driving and turning from left to right, the yaw sensor was giving a reading to the Cars ECU, but the steering angle sensor was still telling the ECU that the wheels were straight ahead, tricking the ECU into thinking the car was sliding, triggering the traction control. After purchasing and fitting a used genuine Clockspring and Wheel Angle Sensor from another 350z, my issues are all resolved. I was able to prove the above as before replacing the Ebay Clockspring with a Genuine unit, via OBD Troubleshooting my Angle Sensor was reporting no values when the wheel was turned from left to right. The car now drives without issues. If anyone wants the name of the Software and Cable I used to troubleshoot and reset my steering angle sensor, It's called Nissan Datascan II and I used a VAGCOM KKL Cable 409.1 to connect to the car via OBD. Once I had put the Genuine replacement part and performed the same test via OBD Troubleshooting, the Angle Sensor reported the correct values.