88 Zed

Did you check the part code?

Ahh doesn't sound like it's come off then, are they taking the box out again?

Hmm, if this was the case would the clutch fork be loose / movable by hand? I hope that's not the case, the garage have just spent the day taking the gearbox off and refitting it - do you know how I can confirm whether it is the DE or HR version? I don't believe it said on the box itself. Edit: I can see I've been charged for the correct version as the HR version is more expensive: KNI25525-1A - DE (Mine) - £792 KNI25688-1A - HR - £1,128 I'm assuming this code will be on the box, so I can check that in the morning. Yeas it would be loose but the rubber bung may be keeping it in place, surely the garage would have compared the new and old clutch and flywheel before fitting it?

Maybe the clutch fork has come off the pivot ball clip or the bearing has come off the clutch fork. It's easy to knock the clutch fork when re-fitting the gearbox onto the engine.

Yea that's an external cylinder, if you pull the rubber cover away from the gearbox you can get a good view of the clutch fork, bearing and pivot ball, you should be able to get a better idea of what's going on then. If the garage have done the job properly then it's most likely a faulty slave cylinder, luckily it's an easy job and should cost much at all, bleeding the new cylinder can be a bit tricky but there are plenty of guides on here if your mechanic is struggling.

Do you have an external slave cylinder?

Air in the system? Incorrectly fitted clutch bearing? I fitted one of these kits in my DE JDM and it worked fine although I did replace my slave cylinder at the same time. A few months later I had to fit a new clutch pivot ball because the old one had failed (someone had bodged it in the past) and I remember there are two different sizes depending on what material the clutch fork is, but I'm sure they would tell you if they had to replace it?

I've changed my fluids every year and added molyslip, like kbad says, it's not all the time, I don't drive mine hard until it's warmed up anyway so maybe that's why I notice it less.

Ahh bonus, already got these fitted

I had this conversation the other day My car gets the best of oil and parts on a regular basis but I know if I sell People would rather see I nissan stamp in the book I just keep all my paperwork for all bits bought and when it was done! I dont the trust nissan at all Same here, I work in an independent garage and test centre and I'm always explaing to customers that the service parts we fit are OE parts an most of the time come from the same factory as the manufacturers parts (MHALE filters are used by mercedes) Not to mention when I service a customers car, I actually inspect things like suspension, brakes, exhaust etc etc, not just checking and replacing the oil and pollen filters or whatever minimal items the schedules tell you to do. In my opinion getting a service from a reputable independent garage is better value for money. It's a shame the general public don't see it that way! Only the other week I had a Mercedes van in fro rear brakes....only to find there was nothing wrong with them. The customer had been to Mercedes for a 'health check'. Not sure what they did inspect but I suspect they were trying it on.

What do the standard ones look like? I thought these were on all zeds

I sometimes get this on cold mornings, I've always put it down to transmission noise. I just keep the revs low until it's warm í ½í±

Heloooo and welcome

Maybe if the press covered this **** up, people would realise that (sometimes) your better off taking your car to an independent garage who will service your car properly rather than just replacing whatever filter or fluids the schedule tells you too at a massively increased cost!

Same here, not got the funds this year but It looks like a good deal? Obviously you could probably find the accommodation cheaper but considering you get the support vehicles, local knowledge and the best routes it's certainly not a bad price! I've got a 2002 JDM though so I'd be a bit anxious that I'd break down and ruin everyone's trip :/ Unless it's "Top gear" rules and you just get left behind

Has anybody been on this? Or looked into it? http://www.rally500.com/ Seems cheap considering there is a support crew etc?

Possibly part of a slide hammer for removing wheels or hubs that have siezed on?

Ekona is your man to ask on that one mate

Not really a mod but I've just spent the last two nights after work fitting, -Discs and pads all round -Rear wheel bearing -gearbox, Diff and engine oils -Brake fluid change -spark plugs, K@N recharge clean the filter and some fuel system cleaner Got to look after these old toys

It's not magic (at least no more than electronics already is...) They just use a simple bridge rectifier circuit. My current set have "no" polarity and many others do too, including cheap ebay ones. So there is just another component soldered into the unit?

Every test station should have a 'decelerometer' to test permernant 4WD vehicles or anything that would cause damage by testing the brakes in the roller brake tester. So just mention that it has an LSD to the, and all should be good If you have any doubts about any failure items, the M.O.T testing manual is available to everyone online. Good luck!

That's it mate, I'd be even more of a grumpy arse if I had to drive something boring to work everyday. Haha

Sounds good mate, can never complain about being busy! Me and my girlfriend are looking to buy a house later on this year and it has crossed my mind a few times that if I sell the Zed it would speed things up money wise. I know It would be a long while before I could buy something like that agin tho. Planning on starting my own business after we are settled into paying bills on the house etc so I'd be skint for a few years.

All normal LED's are polarity sensitive yes, ....BUT a company has designed new LED's which aren't polarity sensitive. Just Googled it and the company is Truck-Lite. I totally agree with you 88 Zed as buying quality LED's in the first place will save you a load of hassle. I went through two sets in under a year before I finally got a decent set which seemed to last better. I believe Phillips 501 LED's are excellent quality around the £15 mark (not too big either). Really? I wonder how they managed that? And yea you get what you pay for really, you can get 5 for a few £ on eBay but they will more than likely turn out to be crap soldered together by a 7 year old haha

Any LED bulb will have to be fitted with the correct polarity I think? I've had many in the past but found they all last about a month before they start flickering, stumped up about £15 in the end and bought some proper RING 501 shaped LED's. Had no problems with them so far.