Rich260

Farnborough, Hampshire. Says it right under my avatar

Will be removing this shortly. Looks great and it's very well made, does have a few marks but not noticeable when fitted. Includes all necessary bolts to fix it in place, although I would kindly ask for your bolts that fix the shoulder points in return . This is strictly collection only. May meet at an agreed location but will not be posting.

Now with it's new owner Mods please lock.

Sorry mate but both items are now sold.

Engine cover now sold.

Hi Deano, I actually have a part exchange sorted this weekend. If it falls through I'll let you know as I may consider splitting the system.

Not really sure to be honest. I think you could but you would lose then burnt effect so it may look a bit odd unless you buff the whole thing to make it shiney silver.

Thanks mate. TGM Sport did all my paint. Will is hard to pin down but has done an amazing job time and time again for me.

It's genuinely not a good feeling parting it! The truth is I simply don't use it enough to warrant keeping her.... Better some one else gets the pleasure of driving it a bit more often than me.

The Enkeis need little introduction, they are an stunning wheel, lightweight and strong. In my opinion one of the best wheels for the Z. The wheels are 18"x 10J et 38 all round. I'm running 10mm spacers on the rear and 15mm spacers on the front all of which will be included in the sale. They are Eibach system 6 which means they come with extended studs that replace your OEM studs. You will need spacers fitted to clear the Brembos. They are in great original condition, two of them are practically new and two of them have a few marks from where the previous owner used them on his time attack 300zx and marked them loading it on to the trailer. I'm very fussy and the marks don't bother me in the slightest, the fact that they still have the original inspection stickers on the inner barrel shows how well they have been cared for. I'm more than happy to send you more detailed pics via what's app or email if you require. Rear tyres: 285 35 18 Front tyres: 265 35 18 Fitted in August last year have seen little use, still have tons of life left and a very decent tyre. I would like a PX for a set of original rays but they must be in decent condition with decent rubber. Loads more pics on my build thread: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/102665-richs-black-import/

Hi all more parts taken off today. Collection is from Farnborough, Hampshire. CF slam panel. Fits beautifully proper full length one in very good condition, a couple of tiny marks but not notable when fitted. May post but collection preferred as I'd hate to see it dammaged. £90 collected, £95 posted. Evo engine cover with a burnt finish. Nothing more than engine bay bling but looks great if you want to show off the plenum. £60 collected, £65 posted. I would combine the postage if you want to buy both items

Thanks mate! I will be sad to see it go for sure but I just don't use it enough. Next step will most likely be going back to 2 wheels on a track bike and a cheep 4x4 I can go and destroy over Borden

Will do, bud.

Hi all, I maybe selling my Z soon and as sad as it makes me, the only way I'm going to recoup some of the costs is to sell some of the mods I've added during my ownership. So up first is the Motordyne exhaust system, purchased from tarmac sportz in May last year and I have covered less than 1500 miles since then. I'll get the car up on ramps this weekend and take some better photos. The sound is simply incredible, I'll happily meet up with any one interested locally to go for a spin so you are able to hear exactly what you are getting. If you were to purchase the TDX2 and ART pipes new it would cost you over £2600. I may consider PX for your existing system, ideally Milltek. Located in Farnborough, Hampshire. May post but will need to get prices. Loads of pics on my build thread: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/102665-richs-black-import/ **To be clear, the last 2 pics were taken before it was fitted.**

1) Zippypooz - N44SSN (PAYCO too) 2. Stuggerz - S7UG V (Plus Mrs) 3. Panman - P44AAN (Plus josh) 4. Chippychip123 - UK04 ZED 5. Dunks - PHZ 4136 6. Paul_B FG05GJK 7. Darkside - DK 51DEZ (plus son) 8. Punisher - DG07 XKA (plus Jelena) 9. Nismoandy - WP06 FNX 10. Rs2oo - X5 HPL (plus 1) 11. xxx180 - WNZ 3507 12. Amyzed FA51 AMY 13. Rich260 OG04LEX

1) SUPRAWOOKIE - Camping 2) Andy_Muxlow 3) Dicaprio - NOT Camping 4) Apoc124 - Camping 5) Rich260- Camping

That pic looks like the inside of a mk2 mr2 I have SR in my Z and they fit perfectly, bolt right in with the correct sub frames to.

Those seats look incredible. Could you please pm me a cost to have mine done in the same fashion? I've got the same recaros

Purchased some SPL parts and a nismo 380RS pedal from TORQEN. Pleasure to do business with, will be using again.

I actually used hammerite satin finish from a spray can. I've done a few interior plastics before so had a bit of practice. You could always take the bits to a paint shop once the lights apart and get them to do the spraying if you don't fancy a diy. Only thing is it's quite time consuming so if you use the Z as a daily that could be an issue.

Have you thought about painting your existing ones? Splitting the headlight is a bit a pita but once that's done it's not a bad job.

Milltek would be a good shout. Or compleat the MD system with the TDX2 it's not raspy or droney but is a little louder than the milltek.

First thing I would try is put it all back to how it was. Turn on just the heating via the programmer, turn the room stat up/ down and see if the CH 2 port opens/ closes accordingly. Turn on just the hot water via the programmer, turn the cylinder stat up/ down see if the HW 2 port opens/ closes accordingly. That will at least give you a starting point to work from.

Humm your wiring looks a bit hashed up to be honest. If you look in the airing cupboard where your two port valves are, follow the flex that comes from the actuators in to that junction box on the wall below your pump. That would be where I would start to test from. Thermostats are easy to test providing you know which is the common and which is the swich, a diagram should be on the back of the stat that shows you. Just test the continuity across the stat and see if it brakes/ makes as you open and close it. As GM says I wouldn't get too involved unless you know what you are doing as electric shocks are a pita.

You have what's known as an S plan system. Without looking at it I can't see if your pump is taking it's power from the end switches on the two port vales or if it's taking it from the boiler (if it has a pumped over run). If you are handy with a multi meter I would take a look inside the wiring center and see if you have 240v on the orange wires of either of the 2 ports when you have both the cylinder and room stats turned down. Here's a wiring diagram if it helps.