Rich260

Mmmmmmm carbon. Got the passenger side in but as we know the drivers side is little more tricky due to the daft bump on the transmission tunnel the seat mounts to. I've ordered a buddy club subframe from tarmac for now but will look at cutting out and re welding the drivers side to get the seat as low as possible.

Great stuff I'll drop you a pm.

Sorry, keep forgetting to add my location. I am indeed in Hampshire. The price is inclusive of postage though

Bump and price drop.

Recently fitted adjustable arms with a lock out kit so these are no longer needed. These are a cheep solution if you are lowered and want to sort your rear alignment out. £25 posted within the UK.

Your shout really mate, there are far worse things being done to Z's on this forum lately than running grooved rotors on the front and oem on the rear haha. It would be better to do the whole lot in one hit but if costs are prohibitive then get the rears done at a later date.

Yes, for road use this will be more than good enough for what you need

Update time. Took the car to Brands and bloody loved it. Yes the car could do with more power and being a bit lighter but it's just so planted and confidence inspiring to drive, even right on the edge of adhesion. The only issues I encountered were fuel starvation at the the end of the start finish straight. With just under 1/4 of a tank I would occasionally get a hesitation just before dropping in to Paddock hill bend. I can only put it down to clearways being a really long right hander and you are at WOT soon as you hit the apex right up until the braking zone at paddock. Filled up with fuel and the issue was solved! Other thing was the ABS cutting in prematurely. After 10 mins googleing we pulled the VCD fuse and that one was solved to, the car was faultless for the rest of the day. Changes I have made are fitting hardrace rear camber and radius arms with an spl lock out kit. This should keep the rear more in check than with the eccentric bolts I had before. I'm also picking up a set of cobra imola bucket seats on Sunday as they will be a bit lighter and hold me in place better than the current recaros. Next stop Bedford aerodrome, can't wait!

I think (and am happy to be called a liar here as I'm not 100% sure) that the flaps allow air to escape then you close the boot or a door. Kind of a pressure release if you know what I mean. The other disc just looks like a rubber grommet that's bunging a hole left from manufacturing. On a side note, just how much weight do you think you have removed by taking that all out?

I did brands the other day and was very impressed with how she went so I'm really looking forward to it I'll keep an eye out for you on the day.

Great write up. I'm currently trying to deciding to go with the performance friction or stoptech AeroRotors. Good to hear stoptech is decent quality.

I've just booked on to this, I'll look out for a silver BMW flying past me haha.

Has any one uses these guys before? I'm thinking about getting 2 piece rotors and came across these on ebay which seem like a decent price. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152438504617

My logic was there will be slightly more resistance in the circuit with the addition of the oil cooler so I wanted slightly less viscosity to maintain flow. Even though it's got a thermostatic plate, a small amount goes through the cooler even when it's cold. I took it out for a spirited drive after work and you are right about the diff bushings, the rear end certainly feels more planted.

Thanks mate, the exhaust took longer than I was expecting but well happy with how it came up. Just need to paint/ replace the W brace and the car will be spot on from underneath. I've also got some hardrace rear camber and radius arms on order from tarmac sportz, following a full geo set up the handeling is more or less sorted.

It's surprising quiet with standard cats in place.... At least it sounds it to me! There's a 105db static, 92db Drive-by so hopefully it won't be an issue. I might take some wire wool and tea strainers just incase haha.

Well I've had a bit of a change of heart and am no longer planning on selling the car. I took it out a few times and just fell in love with it again. I'm now going to try to focus on actually just enjoying the driving of the car rather than how it looks. After all,my hats what makes these cars great. So if your not going to sell it then what do you do?? Carry on modding it of course! So today I have changed one of my biggest bug bares of the JDM import.... The open diff. Ideally I would love to fit a proper Kazz LSD but I can't really justify that kind of cost at the moment, I may re think this in the summer but for now the UK spec VLSD will do. I got a diff from Jon @ emperor and a whiteline bush kit and set about swapping it over. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy the swap is so it's good to know that should I want to fit a Kazz it'll just be a case of dropping it out and running it down to tgm for them to do the technical bit. Also got a set of harness to go in as I've finally got around to booking some track time at brands hatch. Should be fine on noise levels now as I've got the standard cats back in, the car is much quieter than with the ART pipes.

Each to their own but I literally cannot think of a single reason why you would want to to that to any car. Then I am 29 so well out of touch with the cool kids. I'm not sure I'd class it as a high end suspension modification either as it'll destroy the ride and handling in my opinion. Also I don't think you can safely run that much camber as the contact patch of the tyre to the road will be severely diminished. Then you have probably heard all this before Fair play for trying to do it safely as you can though, good luck with trying to find the info.

I'm with Dan, sounds like an issue with the pump. Very unlikely to be pumping over the vent as that should be under negative pressure when the pumps is in operation.

Would also be worth checking any non return valves or strainers on the system. A drawing of the system layout could help us be a bit more accurate to

Possibly pulling in air through an auto air admittance valve? Partial blockage in the feed pipe causing cavitation in the impeller? Are you getting a air through any of the outlets or a reduced flow?

Right it's been a while since a proper update so I'll keep it brief. As you may know I'll be looking to sell the car shortly so am getting it ready for sale so she's 100% for the new owner. First off I replaced the clunky spherical ball joints on the SPL V3 front arms. Always bugged me so I had to get it sorted before she went. Changed the oil and filter. Also replaced the oil pressure sensor as my old one died. Oil pressure gauge now works spot on again. I'm also now on my 4th exhaust system since buying the car I swapped out the beautiful MD system with Vally's Injen SS system. I spent all morning giving it a polish and applied Meguiars NXT metal polish to give it some protection from the elements. Haven't had a chance to take it out yet but just from starting it up I'm quite impressed. Not got the same tone as the MD but it dose have Cats so the new owner will not have to worry about finding a friendly MOT tester.

Essentially, yea.

I never used it with a harnesses as they are a pita for use on the road. I would not have a problem using if for wrap around harnesses though as it's a properly well made bit of kit

Nice to meet you buddy, you will not be disappointed by the noise. Looking forward to seeing your power figures once the remap is complete to. Good luck with the rest of the build.