Rook

Thanks. I saw that Strudel but 'compatible' doesn't mean 'not a load of sh!t' haha. Thanks guys.

For all the reading, I just want to make sure there isn't anything I'm not taking into account... I need some new wheel nuts, I lost a locking wheel nut a while back through reasons I won't go into and now have one set of nuts of the front and the stock ones on the rear. The front ones are crap (hence why I didn't also use them on the rear) and anyway I'd like something a little... Cooler... I found these: https://h-tune.co.uk/muteki-sr35-4-x-lockers-closed-end-lug-nuts-blue-12x1-57/ From what I've gather, steel is the safest way to go - safe is good. The stock rays need a nut with a 60 degree taper - check. The stock nuts (and the nuts on my spacers) are 12x1.25 - check. I currently have spacers on the rear and not the front, and plan on replacing the rears and getting some on the front, from what I can tell the bolts on the car, on the current spacers (I measured) and on the spacers I will be getting (Eibach), they're all shorter than 35mm - check again. Anything I've missed? Anyone any experience of these or this brand? Thanks!

Thanks for that. More the look than anything. My Z still has the awful tyres I bought it with but they were basically new when I got it so didn't see wasting money changing them until they needed it. Ive got spacers on, and just a tad more width and even the 1% increase in circumference are just what it needs to look bang on until I lower it. The impression I get is wider means more steering in - anything else?

Apologies if this is covered but I can't find it if it has. I fancy going wider on the rear but at least for now I'm gunna keep the stock Rays alloys. I've heard a difference in size between front and rear can upset the traction control - mine's always switched off, is this something I need to worry about? Anyhow - I was thinking 255/45/R18 on the rear, will this fit? Will it be ok with a 225/45/R18 on the front? Wouldn't really want to make the total circumference any smaller, I think the wheels already struggle to properly fill the arches. This looks about 1% larger in diameter which I feel should be fine! Going Falken 453 if that makes any difference to anyone. Thanks!

I've posted it here a few times, I stopped for some fuel in the middle of nowhere somewhere in Shropshire I think on my way back from north wales. Pull into a petrol station, did my thing and wandered into the shop. I'm the only person there and I know the kid behind the counter's basically been staring at me the whole. Go in to pay, 'that a skyline?' No, it's a 350z. Oh my mate has one of them, 2l? No, 3.5. Ah my mate's is the 2l version. I'll tell you what I told him - shoulda bought a GTR. Yes mate, should have spent an extra £50,000 and gotten something completely different hahaha. I get the 'that must be expensive to run' thing so much that it's actually a running joke in my office now to ask how much my car costs me to run. Stopped being funny a year or so ago, a few minutes after it started, haha.

Thanks for the detailed and constructive replies! Jimbob I agree in a way, that's my biggest worry with the 70 is I'll not have the disposable to make it mine for a while. I think I need to book another test drive in a 370!

Happy 07 RevUp DE owner, have been for about 18 months. Have briefly driven HR and 370z, but didn't own my car at the time, so don't have a reasonable comparison in mind... Anyway, work's going ok and I'm ready to start enjoying my car a little more, shall we say. I want '350z but more' and am weighing up exactly how I might achieve that. This isn't a 'what mods should I get' post, more a case of 'are these my options, and have I evaluated them correctly'. I'm not rolling in the dough, so finances are a concern. I've been running a Z as my daily for 18 months and put over 20,000 miles on it in that time, so obviously not too restrictively so, but yeah. Enough intro. Far as I see it, to get '350z plus' I could put my money into: NA mods (HFC's, headers maybe?), remap, coilovers, new rims, tyres and maybe the odd body mod on my current Z. - Pros: I know my car's reliable, I know it's quirks, and this is a cheap (ish) option. Hopefully the NA mods will be enough to make the car just that bit more responsive and the coilovers make it just that bit sharper. I don't think I'm necessarily in the market for 'scare the pants off you' fast. - Cons: It's on 120k miles already, and a RevUp - am I potentially affecting reliability? All the above mods on a newer HR. - Pros: People rave about the HR motor, and there's the faintest chance I could pull more power out of it with my NA mods and remap. I'd also have a younger car, and potentially more years of enjoyment out of it. If it's younger in years and does a few fewer miles, it might just feel a little sharper too. Maybe. Oh and the HR bonnet is cool. Means I can get a Z in the colour I want too, grey wasn't my first choice! - Cons: Means going through the hassle of selling my car, buying a new, unknown vehicle and going through all that drama all over again of finding out all the things the listing and 20 minutes of tyre kicking doesn't tell you, and the HR will set me back about £4K more than I'll get for my car for basically the same thing - is the HR £4K better? I'm not sure. Buy a 370z and build it up over time. - Pros: Yay shiny new(ish) thing, bigger motor, better economy (yeah I just said that, sorry), better resale value (?), a much sharper drive (though arguably less 'raw') and more refined clutch. - Cons: Most expensive by far, so wouldn't be able to afford to modify straight away. It's still, fundamentally, a very similar car to the 350z and as I said, not as raw and mechanical feeling in my brief experience, albeit a sharper, more modern feeling car. Also, parts and remap seem to cost more, and the bigger rims means that's more expensive too. Apologies if this is similar to previous threads but - where would the more experienced Z drivers and modders here draw the line? Will a remap and some coilovers really make my car feel that much sprightlier? Is a 370z or 350z HR a better base for mods?

I'd wedge a screwdriver in the end you're pulling the rubber hanger toward, and pull the rubber over the tip of the metal bracket. Where you can, pull the rubber of the hanger away from the metal (create a gap) and spray some WD40 in. It won't do much, but every little help. What I do then is put the (flat head) screw driver in between the rubber and metal *from the other side* and lever and pull the rubber over the end of the metal bracket - so you're pushing the screwdriver in the direction you want the rubber to go, and levering against the end of the metal bracket. Cutting it off may seem easier, but it isn't really. That way will take time and you really have to throw your strength into it, but it will work, slowly but surely.

Same again, 112k, I put 23k of those on, original clutch, not a single non-standard problem. I've put new rear discs and pads on, which I did myself. I've had the clicking axle, which I fixed myself. I've had it serviced by people smarter than me purely for my own sanity (better to have more experienced eyes check the car over which in happy to pay for) and to maintain stamps in my book so that I don't struggle to sell the car. My car's a RevUp and it uses about 0.3-0.4l oil every 1000 miles, which I'm perfectly happy with.

1) good shout, only friendly local Z I know is a bloody auto though (thanks for nothing Jud haha). Maybe there's a meet soon. 2) I didn't even think of bushes, that's a great shout, thank you.

I've two questions and I can't seem to find an answer with search, so apologies if these are common... 1. The scrapy clutch noise, I think people have decided it's the throwout bearing - I'm pretty sure mine's gotten louder over the last 20k miles (1 year). It's had a P1 and a P2 in that time. Does this have anything to do with needing a new clutch? My clutch still pulls perfectly despite the mileage on it (110k it's mostly motorway miles anyway, the clutch may have been changed before I got it but I can't find a result if so) but can they fail in other ways? Would this noise be an indication of that? When it bites it rattles a little but it's always done that. 2. I keep hearing a knock under the car. It's not the clicky axles, I've had that problem and fixed it, the sound is totally different. I cannot recreate it on the drive. It usually happens *after* accelerating, but only maybe once a day. I don't necessarily have to accelerate hard, I might go from 50 to 70 on a motorway in fourth, shift in to sixth, the car settles then *bonk* from under the car. Is this symptomatic of anything you guys have encountered or is it purely a councidence? It's probably happened 6 or so times in the last 2 weeks, each time in similar circumstances.

Hope nobody minds the bump... I have a ticking coming from my OS front wheel, changes speed with the wheel, when turning left it goes from a tick to a click. Is this likely to be wheel bearings? I can't recreate the sound with the wheel off the ground...

^What Impact did that have exactly? Easy fix?

I may be wrong, but I believe the travel is inherent in the pedal itself, as there's a strut-like arm that takes up some strain first. The problem with adjusting it is you'll very likely lose cruise control, as it has a sensor.

Apparently you can upgrade the firmware of the Nav and use a newer disc, haven't found out how anywhere though!

Interesting thread, was having a similar thought recently. Steering was the other one for me. Just ever so slightly looser than I feel it should be...

Indeed, and in fact I'd be even more likely to use that for if it were doing lots of mileage, because of economy. Most people who use more viscous oils are chasing performance or are boosted.

This is usually caused by importing. The plate may say 02 because this is the year is was *built* but it wasn't important and *registered* until later, some have discrepancies over 10 years, it all down to when the vehicle was imported. If the ones with a difference have a smaller number plate on the rear and/or no boot lip spoiler, it's because they're imports from Japan, hence the discrepancies.

Mine hasn't had an air con belt for ages, Nissan told me it was fine. I don't know why you'd have to replace both belts at once, but you might as well, since they're cheap and once you have access to one you have access to both.

That's a similar noise to what the oil pump makes, but it shouldn't be that loud unless it's starved and you had oil pressure so I'd be surprised if that were the case. Fuel pump?

^hahahaha

More transmission noise? I was gunna go for a lighter single mass when I change mine but I didn't realise it could make it even louder haha.

Ah yes... Hampshire haha.

I googled it thanks, hence my remark about ugly solutions. Wind deflectors don't work because there's no sill so you have to stick it to the A-pillar, then you can't open the door without putting the window down. I think I'm going to try and put something between the window seal and the A-pillar around the spot where most of the water comes in. See if I can do it subtly. I saw (when I googled before posting) people gluing what looked like a gasket from a washing machine door as a 'rain slider' but it just looks ridiculous. A well. Thanks anyway.

Crikey, OK. Thanks a lot guys. Is there a recommended place people here use for this?