Rook

I have the Takeda short ram (single, DE) which isn't short at all, by the way. Sounds absolutely fantastic under load, an almost American V8 BRRRRRR suddenly emerges from under the bonnet when you push the go pedal. Revs don't even matter, if your foot's down it really bellows. I'm not gunna say I notice any difference with performance, but that's not what I bought it for. The screaming silly noises are half the fun of a car like this, the motor only needs to be *fast enough* that you don't look a plonker while making them IMO.

Same problem, following! Mine make the noise when you open the door and you can very gently push the window and it'll fall to the right place, then go back up again when closed, but it won't do it on its own.

^I'm potentially in, and know at least one other local Z owner who I'm sure would be! Oh on that little Rivendell thing? That explains it. I work in Wycombe, bout an hour each way in rush hour traffic. Car takes it like a trooper, though, and hasn't cost anything like I thought it would to run. Let me know if you wanna go pub or something sometime anyway

How have I never seen your car, by the way? Haha!

That's me! Don't judge me if she's filthy, she does 400 miles a week haha. Much cleaner in the summer. Pub sometime?

You live on the same road as the pub? St John's or Fleet Road? I'm up St John's, opposite the church!

Black (waved) coming onto Prospect near the college, Azure pulling out from the Plough and Horses pub. If you're local, make yourselves known!

Interested in a used Milltek, Cobra or Scorpion system, or would entertain the Japspeed K2 if it was going for a good price. Need at least the midpipe and back, though my car could use a new y-pipe, so open to that. Not interested in brand new, my car has a lot of mileage and I'm not going to have it for too much longer before I get an HR or 370z so I'm not looking to lose a load of money on a noisy metal tube! Not just looking at the brands above, but I expect lots of others will cost more than I probably want to spend and this is my daily driver (80 miles a day) so cannot drone much if it all, those I mention are ones I understand I should be ok with.

I just realised the other day I'm missing the screws around the front nearside wheel arch that hold the black plastic and nearside skirt on. I've got no idea how so many screws can be missing - they could well have been missing the whole time I've had the car and I've just not noticed... Anyhow. How are these screws held in? Is it going to be a pain to fix? What do I need to do it? Thanks!

Thanks chaps!

Apologies if this has been posted already but I couldn't find anything in the search! I have a new exhaust (mid pipe and backbox) coming shortly and I'd like to fit it myself. I'm handy with tools, understand how to not break things, and am pretty used to tweaking, fixing and changing things on the Z now. I'm pretty sure I saw somewhere that there's at least one sensor on the exhaust system, my questions are simply: 1. Are there any on the two sections I'll be changing? 2. Otherwise, is this as straightforward a job as it seems? Any tips for DIY exhaust changes? 3. My car's an 07 and 100k miles, so the undercarriage probably isn't in the best condition, are there any surprise things I'm going to need to account for? Stiff bolts, cracked gaskets etc? 4. I know the car adapts on its own somewhat, but I imagine only to a very small degree. The flow of this exhaust compared to the existing back box is going to be very much improved, but am I right in thinking that the car's 'mapping' will adjust such no performance improvements are made? I read somewhere that it'll read the easier flow as a 'problem' and correct for it - I'm not going to lose performance, am I? Thanks!

Can I ask why you'd do this? Just to save money?

Well it depends on the snow really doesn't it, the slushy crap we get around here our FWD just understeers more. I agree, on the one day a year we actually get a covering of snow, FWD or 4WD is king, but it's not worth it for the other 364 for me haha. On the day we do get an inch of snow, I won't be making my 40 mile commute!

I dunno, I have to say I'd rather be driving through the snow in a reasonably heavy, wide car with fat tyres and a low centre of gravity than other half's Megane that understeers on a warm dry day at 15mph! I'll be short shifting though, my bum's not ready for four wheel drifts haha.

Dammit missed again. Third!

Wasting my time but.... Third!

So I ended up draining the sump - car unused up to this point. I drained a rather shocking 3.5l after leaving the sump to drain for a good few minutes. Looks like the oil pressure gauge saved the day, I'd have gone on believing my ridiculous misreading of the dipstick had it not been for that. I put some new oil in, starting with the sump plug off to make sure oil was getting all the way from the top of the block to the sump unhindered, which it was. Plugged the sump, ended up putting 4.5l, or thereabouts, in. Reading off the stick now, the collection of oil on the L-H strip is more dense, and sitting pretty well bang on at the moment. I'm just going to have to be more conscious of the thick mystery blobs appearing around that area that created all this drama in the first place. Engine's running perfectly, oil pressures looking much more sensibly, and the pressure doesn't tank anywhere near as much as before. In a separate note, somebody made a claim that Esso's synergy premium unleaded impacted their idle, I've filled up with it today, how long does the system take to make adjustments to new fuel? Thanks all, glad I got it sorted, will sleep much better tonight...

You have PM!

Useful to know, looks like that's about a 15 minute walk from my house!

That's still a good price, well done either way chap!

You got an HR for 6500?! Assuming it hasn't done 200k miles, well done!

Now I'm just confused, and whatever happens I need to do something at this stage, so I'll tray and make this as digestible as possible, if you guys would be so kind as to give me your thoughts! - 07 RevUp DE - Daily commuter, 400 miles a week - 103k miles on the clock - Always run on super. As far as myself and the previous owner know, at least. - Last serviced about 6k miles ago by a Nissan dealer - Bought earlier this year and serviced about 7k miles before I serviced it, also by a (different) Nissan dealer - A friend of mine did the service at Nissan and was particularly thorough, he's confident that as far as you can tell by inspection, it's mechanically great for the mileage Over the summer, I was on my way home on the motorway, doing about 50 in a 50mph zone on the M3 (bloody average speed cameras). 2K rpm, engine barely ticking over, just rumbling home. Windows up, heater off, stereo off, so the cabin's (relatively, haha) quiet. I hear a buzzing fade in from silence - it's quiet even at its loudest and slightly muffled. Sounds like an electric motor. Keep listening and realise the oil pressure needle moves down as the noise engages, and also notice that changing the throttle at all makes it immediately stop. I then came off on the slip road, a hard left with some (unnecessarily) hard braking at the end, and I see my oil pressure drop all the way to zero. I got what I thought was a sensible reading off the dipstick later that evening, decided I needed a top-up, and all was fine, I got the car serviced a week later, including an oil change and new filter. Didn't hear the noise again after that day, so assumed it was a result of low oil, and therefore the oil pump. Not a single problem, including occasional oil level checks (though I do mean very occasional) since. Then last week, I hear the noise again. Ah, I think, I need to check the oil. Try repeatedly to to get a sensible reading off the dipstick, indication seems to be that I need to top up, so I top up. Not wholly convinced and with paranoia quickly setting in, the following day, I made extra sure I put the car somewhere level in the road outside my house. I let it warm up, turn it off, and dip after 15, 30 and 60 minutes. All indications are now that I'm about 3cm past the H on the dipstick. I jack it up, open the plug and let I'd say about 0.7l out, now I appear to be about 0.5-1.5cm too high. Running the engine though for a couple of miles around the block, my oil pressure seems low, and when braking, the oil pressure goes right down - something I'd never noticed before. I can't say I'm usually watching my oil pressure when I'm braking. Now I know the dipstick can be unreliable, and I know the oil pressure gauge can be unreliable. My questions are: 1. Any guesses what that noise might have been that I put down as being the oil pump? 2. How risky is being 0.5-1.5cm above 'H' on the dipstick? This may seem a dumb question, but a lot of american forums seem to think it's fine. I was convinced enough to run the car long enough to warm it up and check pressure, but not enough to continue to run it. 3. Do other people's oil gauges drop right down on braking? I know it's because the oil's all running to the front, but is this indicative of a *low* oil level? This is part of the reason for all my confusion here... 4. Does anyone know how much oil L to H is on the dipstick? 5. If my RevUp burns oil, how much do we commonly expect to see burnt per thousand miles? Sorry for all the words, but my brain hurts now. I basically don't know if my dipstick is showing a false high, if I have an oil pump problem, or if I just need to drain a little bit of oil and forget about it - or indeed if I don't need to do anything. Help!

Esso Synergy helped with the idle? Interesting. I run Tesco 99 almost exclusively but occasionally V Power. I've been a bit on the fence about trying Esso purely out of ignorance - if it conforms to a super 'standard', and could potentially help with the idle I might give it a go.

26 in a couple weeks, bought while 25. Very surprised by the number of people much younger than me here, just goes to show I guess!

Well that's a tempting proposition!