Commander

Post Removed Must check I'm at the end of the conversation before wading in!

Eugh - hopefully I have better luck than you then! :-/

Cheers, but 49" is the limit. I started with the 6 but went for the 7 in the end because of the increased picture quality.

Woo! Arrives Wednesday.. http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/tv-and-home-entertainment/televisions/televisions/samsung-ue49ks7000-smart-4k-ultra-hd-hdr-49-led-tv-10144282-pdt.html

Ok, I'm gonna stick with plan A. It is 4K UHD HDR panel so I'm expecting big things!

Stretch to a HR if you can - better motor! My mate had an RX8 - the HR Z is better all round and though it may feel slower, it actually isn't, just the lower RPM limit and really smooth power curve can be deceptive. Enjoy!

My TV is pretty long in the tooth now (12 years old!) and I fancy an upgrade. I've been looking at the Samsung UE49KS7000 (49" 4K) for about £800 which seems to get good reviews in terms of picture quality and has plenty of interfaces for HDMI, USB, etc... Looks pretty too. Is there anything better out there for similar / less money? 49" is the upper size limit; 42" minimum.

Second one is downhill from the first :-/

Take it out and trace the wires?!

Done any more yet? Love reading threads like these!

Thanks for all the help - after some time spent checking wiring diagrams and checking functionality with my multi-meter, I established it was the actuator on the CH that was at fault. I had a British Gas BGMVSP-2 actuator and it turns out that it's nigh identical to a Drayton ZA5/679-2, so I bought the Drayton unit (as I couldn't find another BG one) and just fitted the new actuator to the old valve, it just clips on, wired up the 4 wires and job done. Direct fit, dead easy, problem solved. Thanks again, Richard

Show description from Amazon: "Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond and James May are back with The Grand Tour. A show about adventure, excitement and friendship... as long as you accept that the people you call friends are also the ones you find extremely annoying. Sometimes it's even a show about cars. Follow them on their global adventure. Episodes contain product placement." So, 'cars' are mentioned once and even then it's in a phrase which diminishes their relevance. If you're watching it mainly for the cars, you're watching the wrong show.

Looks like it's a sticky switch in the CH valve... Messing around with the HW and it all goes on/off ok. Do the same with HW and it comes on ok, but won't go off unless I turn it off for ages at the wall. Will do some more testing tonight before I go buying new valves... at least it's only a two-port one, shouldn't take long to swap over... PITA position though!

Troubleshooting method then, un-wire one of the valves and test behaviour / volts. Restore to normal then un-wire the other valve and test behaviour / volts. This should allow me to work out which one is / isn't working... job done. Right?!

Cheers. By 'wiring centre' I assume you mean this? My system's wiring doesn't entirely match the diagram. It's a Danfoss system so I'll see if I can find the Danfoss version of your diagram. I'll bust out my multi-meter tomorrow and see. If thermostat is down but I'm still seeing volts, does that mean duff thermostat or duff switch in the valve?

I have a pumped, vented, Gas CH / HW system with a room stat, boiler stat, electric programmer and two two-port electric valves that sit in parallel with each other - one does HW and the other does CH. We noticed the pump and boiler have been coming on at funny times, or not going off at the end of the day like they should. Valves seem to open / close fine. I have currently removed the programmer from the wall AND un-wired the electric valves, but the pump is STILL running. Boiler is off. If I turn it all off at the wall the pump goes off, but as soon as I power it on again the pump restarts. The only way to stop the pump is to manually operate the vales open (as they are currently disconnected) which allows the water in to the CH / HW circuits. Presumably this drops the water temperature and the pump eventually goes off. So, I think there must be another thermostat somewhere in either the boiler or the pump (or both?) and this is causing the system to keep running somehow. Any tips on troubleshooting please?

Sure the repairs were done properly? Everything was re-aligned afterwards? Tyre pressures all ok? Bushes, Bearings, ARBs, Drop links all ok? If you've hit something hard enough to properly destroy an alloy wheel you want to check everything else is ok too. Remember that it's more than just the wheel that was involved in the accident, it was the whole car.

Interesting read. I can relate to a lot of that article.

Good for Trump, bad for the world. Brexit and Trump in the same year - wtf is democracy doing!?

Dude - get a solicitor and a psychiatrist or she'll ruin ya!

A break is as good as a change, as they say... sounds like you've got yourself a plan right there.

Time for a bake-off...

Yeah, insurance claim advisor lady said it'll probably end up 50/50, but I've told her I'm prepared to argue the toss as I did nothing wrong (aside from overtake a driver who doesn't use his mirrors or indicators!). We'll see what happens.

I am fast becoming a dash cam convert! What are you guys running and how do you get on with it?

He didn't to my face, but there's always the risk he'll tell the insurance company something different.