350Butcher

Mahle are the best pistons (and ring sets) in the world and are available off the shelf in low comp for an F.I DE engine build. Either CP or JE after that.........would avoid everything else. Carrillo for top end rods but are pricey and to be honest most forged rods are suitable to high HP builds. ACL race series bearing sets and ARP head and main stud kits for DE...........crank is fine but as you have said get it all balanced as an assembly inc flywheel/clutch cover and install a ATI damper and you've got yourself a very solid and bomb proof bottom end which will last years and years of abuse

I'll probably leave factory 7500k rev limiter in place for reliability but if power is still building then I'll let it run 8k.......beyond that I think I'd be asking for trouble!

Didn't realise you were on 20's......could ditch a load of unsprung weight as well as give yourself a better choice of rubber moving to 18/19 as you say.......if those sort of gains are of interest to you, I know its not everyone's main goal and aesthetics play a big part. Sponsorship must make your decision easier so fair enough!................Not tempted to run the r888r then? Especially if they're coming cheap

Seriously good results Rob!! Over 10% increase n/a tuning is great work and as you've said the numbers alone don't do the driving experience justice. Looking forward to following what's next!

Sadly not!!.............Can't wait to get back in the Z and get on track in March/early April again to stretch its legs Thanks! Without taking any increase in efficiency into account then just the increase to 3.7ltr should make it 362hp (@98hp/ltr)............the higher compression ratio should net gains across the whole rev range though so I'm hoping closer to 370hp is achievable.

Yes mate.......can have a proper look around it......haven't forgotten I promised you a run out in it when the salts gone either!!

Cheers! Appreciate it!

Not much to update here but block, crank, pistons and rods are all down at the machine shop to get all that side of the job done and then assembly can start! The second engine was meant to make the build more relaxed but I can't wait to get it all back already!! I now have all the big and costly parts for this build, its just gaskets etc that'll be required to finish it which is good! While at the machine shop I did get a chance to take a look at the new clutch..........clutches shouldn't be so good looking!!! and the Ati damper And lastly am doing a little bit of shopping for some tools to make the assembly better and more easy...........so picked up a Wiseco 96mm tapered piston ring compressor sleeve which will enable the pistons to just push straight down into the bores nicely

With such a good chassis set up I think you should try a much better tyre than the Toyo T1...........they are definitely the weakest link for your car and the most important

Vx220 is a great car, you need to get in there sooner than later as prices are on the up! Pic up a nice Vxr or Turbo model and it'll make you money while you enjoy it. We've had Vxr220 #10 "the grey one" in the family for 12 years and it's a pocket rocket, charge cooled 300Hp, no pas, no tc, even turned the abs off so driving is so raw..........stepping back into the Z after feels like driving a bus!

Happy to have helped in any way! Great write up of a job well done. Look forward to joining you on track in a couple of months where you can let it rip and enjoy the gains of your labour!!!

I know the stuff, think that does stay flexible and soft so as you say you could remove if necessary. I’ll have a look into that. Wiring up the ones I’m looking at only require permanent live, switch live, ground and a dimmer which I can take off the back of the head unit so easy enough........even for my basic wiring skills!! Thanks for info

Cheers.........they do look right from in the car but I won’t be covering £400+ worth of gauges in glue!! But good to know the 52mm gauges slot in so good to factory pod.

Am looking to install replacement gauges to the center triple pod of my Z and looking around there are varying ways people have gone about it but yours are exactly how I'd like to do it........very factory looking, tucked in behind the factory silver binnacles etc very nice! Any pics of the install and how you secured them etc? I assume they are 52mm gauges? Wiring straight off the stereo harness?

Agreed......Nismo pump is 3x the price and uses inferior internals from the homework I did.

Good to hear you're enjoying the Intrax suspension! Car's looking stunning after the detail.........I do really like the orange HR's!

Cheers! Think the stock oil pump is fine up to factory rev limit but I didn't want to take any chances so I installed a set of chromoly billet oil pump gears from Boundary Pumps when I carried out the engine work start of last year, I'll carry them over with the new engine build as they are good to 9000rpm so I wont be troubling that any time Link: http://www.boundarypumps.com/nissan/nissan-oil-pump-gears

How much track experience do you have already? If you can hold a good yet safe pace, familiar and comfortable with track driving then just treat it like every other new track and as others have said be sensible, give yourself a bit of time and most of all enjoy it and get the most of your time on track as it is such an amazing track and place to visit. Totally unique and a must box to tick if you're into cars and driving them! My opinion is that the biggest difference with the 'Ring vs almost every other track is that driving overly slow and cautious is as dangerous as trying to push on and set your own lap record as a lot of the people who drive it do know it very well with cars built to do it and are on a very quick pace, meaning closing speeds can be huge and people aren't thinking about taking it easy over that flat out blind crest in case there's someone learning the track over it! With no briefing before tourist sessions and no rules to speak of with regards to overtaking etc it can be a bit over whelming. Also, bit obvious but make sure you're on good tyres and you've got plenty of meat left on your brake pads Not trying to scare just giving an honest account............enjoy it because it IS epic!

The ART pipes do give a very nice tuned tone without sounding nasty and overly loud.......system will obviously play its part but cats/decats make a big difference Don't be too fooled by the "after" idle, the intake and exhaust make themselves known when it's opened up........bear in mind this is with baffles installed to keep below 98dB........its 102dB without baffles (hope this link works!) https://www.flickr.com/photos/167602387@N08/31801860687/in/shares-83a4go/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/167602387@N08/46018794414/in/shares-83a4go/

I ran ART pipes on my DE and HR 350z's mated to XYZ y pipe and Tanabe Medalion Touring system and can assure you there is no drone from them or nasty rasp. As far as dB all I can add is I needed no additional silencing at Donington track days so its under 98dB. The start of this sound clip was with the above setup

So happy to have this in the diary to look forward to in 2019..................be so good to do some flying laps on the king of all race tracks again!! Last time there was in 2016 when this car was very standard by comparison to where it is now so should be a different experience this time out.........please be dry and sunny!

Its a ton of work to install all these parts........its not a particularly difficult engine to work on but it is a labour intensive one. The claims of the results though are absolutely ridiculous........and he's talking wheel hp too so the 377 is around 437 engine hp!! 370z (from Nissan website) = 323hp (87hp/ltr) after Z1 parts 437hp (118hp/ltr)...........just look at the numbers!! With no modification to head castings or bottom end at all. No doubt those mods would make gains and improve response and drivability but nowhere near these claims. If you just want additional power and to go faster then superchargers and turbos will always be the better route and £/hp the best result by some margin.

I know it's been a while since last post......but I've just seen and caught up with this build! I'm doing some homework on 350z weight saving and found this build and have enjoyed reading about the tons of good work and hard graft that's gone into the car. Any idea what the weight of your half cage is? I actually saw you at Anglesey GP layout back in May '17......had a look around the car and it so well finished and tidy for a car that gets tracked which is always good to see and a credit to you and your commitment to it!! I didn't find you on the day to have a chat about the car but did see you on the way home and shared a thumbs up!! I was a bit dissapointed that I couldn't hang on to you round Anglesey but reading this thread and seeing you have 200 more hp plus 80kg weight saving I'm feeling much better about that now!!

That's the plan Dave.........35HR is 10.6:1 and 37VHR went to 11:1.........so pushing it a bit further with my build. Will be mapped to V power and I may throw in a bottle of Millers CVL turbo when on track days just to be on the safe side!

Santa arrived early and in a DHL van this morning!!........ CP pistons If you haven't followed my build..........they are custom 12.5:1 CR to work with the longer 35HR rods and the 37VHR crankshaft. Feature coatings to crown and skirts, steel pins as well as a few other features to save weight, friction and increase performance. BC Rods Pretty typical 4340 steel items, come with ARP2000 bolts. Save weight and add a lot of strength over stock items. You can see here the difference to stock with the raised pin height to accommodate the longer stroke of the 37VHR crank and the built up crown for increased compression Weight was of real important consideration so I pulled out the scales to compare! Stock 35HR items Piston 398g Pin 109g Rods 656g TOTAL 1163g CP/BC items Piston 365g Pin 95g Rod 575g TOTAL 1035g Saving 128g per cylinder (x6 is 768g off total rotational assembly and they'll more once its calculated what can be removed from the crank too when the whole assembly is balanced) Given that pistons at 7000rpm can be subjected to g forces well over 3000g's the saving of 128grams is a massive reduction in forces acting on the components inside the engine. Looking forward to getting it all to the machine shop very soon Hope everyone has a great Christmas and New Year!!