ilogikal1

In short - big tank thingy. There are pros and cons to each; Either is only as good as the resin it's filled with. In-line jobbies are a cheaper outlay but due to the smaller size are used up much sooner so need to be replaced more frequently. The vessels are a bigger initial outlay but are refillable, the resin works out to be about half the price of a replacement in-line filter (25 litres of MB-115 resin is about £75 but will fill an 11 litre vessel 2.5 times over). In my experience with the Aqua Gleam vs. the Daqua vessel with 330odd ppm hard water; the Aqua Gleam lasted about two months (8-10 uses maximum), the Daqua is still going on the original resin from last April (used almost weekly). There's some more detailage in this thread but if there's anything I've not covered, feel free to ask. Firstly, the 350Z wing mirrors are b*****ds! Now that I've got that off my chest... This is perfect for those areas (except the wing mirrors. You can send those ******* to the surface of the sun and they'd still come back with water in them!). It's a bit pricey but having played with one a few times they are second only to the Air Force Blaster (which is much more expensive and complete overkill unless drying the whole car, but still bloody brilliant!). I don't have any experience using anything else (other than a towel of course) but if you can find something with a similar spec to the Sidekick I imagine it'd be equally as effective, that is essentially just a compressor after all - slightly heated air like the Sidekick would be a bonus but I wouldn't say it's essential really.

Last resort, that one. I've got a load of spray heads lying around (including two genuine WetCoat ones!) but they'd cost more than £1 to post out. Also no. No I'm not.

Yeah, unless you've bought the 4 litre jobbie it should come with a trigger spray head. They do come separate rather than fitted to the bottle though so it's possible it's just been overlooked when packing. Drop UF an email, they used to be* fairly decent to deal with. *They've adopted some... let's say "questionable" business practices recently so other things may also have changed. The standard spray head isn't all that great though so if you've got a spare one laying that will fit it, it'll probably be just as good anyway. If not, for the princely sum of £1 delivered one of these will be ideal for WetCoat as you can adjust the spray as desired.

Yeah, the lights bottle is fed off the windscreen bottle, so the light washers will run out before the windscreen washer does.

Possibly a daft suggestion, but have you made sure the bottle is topped up? If it's not, the light washers don't operate.

There's a guide here.

So just the standard response to every single "e-petition" of ever then...

I'm never wrong. I'm not always right, but I'm never wrong. It does make the bumper look a lot cleaner, but I still think plates look slightly out of place down on the grille personally. It doesn't look terrible by any means, it just doesn't quite look... perfect I suppose. Might look better if you trim down the 6 feet of white space at either end of the plate. Just as well you discovered WetCoat recently then just keep White Diamond/Black Hole stockpiled to make up for that new wash technique.

Thank you for that, it certainly gives more context and substance to your previous posts on this thread.

It's alright, that idiot will never notice. Not convinced about the plate myself, but black was absolutely the right choice for the louvres. Also, shiny!

I'd never find the time... I'm too busy buffing waxes off the car.

More pictures; Spot the Z. For those keeping track, the car is currently wearing; 2 coats of Gyeon Tire on the tyres. Wolf's Nano Clean & Coat on the wheels. Maxolen Multimax on the boot & rear light plastic trim, door sill plastics, front badge and engine cover. Auto Finesse Spritz on all other engine bay plastics. FK1000P on the exhaust, topped with Dr Beasley's Wheel Sealant, just for lolz. Nanolex Nanowax on the rear bumper. A small strip of Nanolex Reactivating Shampoo on the boot Gyeon Cure on the passenger side boot, rear quarter panel, door and wing mirror. Dodo Juice Supernatural Acrylic Spritz on the driver side boot, rear quarter panel, door and wing mirror. Car Chem PTFE Glaze on the painted A pillar trim (both sides). Car Chem Hydrocoat on the roof. Madcow Ultra Violet on the front wings (both sides). Waxaddict Edition 18 on the upper driver side bonnet. Waxaddict Edition 19 on the upper middle bonnet. Waxaddict Edition 20 (x2) on the upper & lower (respectively) passenger side bonnet. Waxaddict Vitreo on the lower driver side bonnet. Waxaddict Graphite (beta version - previously "that little unlabelled pot") on the lower middle bonnet. Waxaddict Development Wax (from box 21) on the front bumper. Nanolex Trim Rejuvenator on the passenger side of the front grille. Hubikote HubiTrim on the driver side of the front grille. GTechniq G1 on the glass. I still need to chose something for the side skirts. And then start on the interior.

A few more bits done yesterday & Friday - excuse the photo quality, these were all taken with my phone. This (eventually) arrived on Friday - I'm sure my postman deliberately leaves my post 'til last on Waxybox day. Which contained... ... a lot. In this box is; Frost Onyx (tyre dressing), Madcow Ultra Violet (QD/sealant), Poorboys Super Slick & Suds (shampoo), Glimmerman Prestige Gloss (rinse aid), Stoner's Invisible Glass (glass cleaner), Slickrims (wheel sealant), Chemical Guys Diablo (wheel cleaner), Lexol pH Balanced Leather Cleaner (leather cleaner...), Waxaddict Development Wax (a... er... wax...), Mothers Magnesium & Aluminium Polish (it's just getting silly now...), a pair of Tigergrip gloves, 2x "detail sticks" (foam tipped swabs), a Waxybox air freshener, 2x Hibkote air fresheners, a sticker, a dual pile microfibre cloth, a foam wax applicator, a foam tire dressing applicator, a discount code for Frost, the usual product information card and instructions for Slickrims. So I set to work. First up; Yep, it's in the boot. I can't stand things dangling from the more traditional interior mirror placement, so I use the handy fixtures under the strut bar for hanging air fresheners. Sadly, not the HubiFresh scent, which is one of my all time favourites. Luckily it is a very nice scent still. Next up, I applied; Very easy to apply, it spread really well and was a very nice consistency being neither too hard nor too soft. A couple of swipes with the small applicator was all it took to coat the entire front bumper (not including the badge, by the way). There were no instructions with this one, so I resorted to the swipe test. Whilst that was curing, I moved onto this; I initially thought this was an outright sealant from both the description on the Madcow website and the description from Waxybox. It seems I have actually misread both because I've since been informed that it's a QD*... in the same way that Sonax BSD is a QD it seems - i.e. it's marketed as a QD, it's designed to behave like a sealant. That said, having used both, I'd have little issue with UV as a QD unlike BSD (other acronyms are available...). Having re-read both sources again armed with this knowledge, I can see where my misunderstanding occurred. *Apologies to harryjackson for confusing matters when discussing this on Instagram, fortunately Madcow were on hand to provide useful information based on actual knowledge whilst I was in the pub getting drunk. Anyway, now that, that is cleared up... it's a very simple WOWO product, so I cracked out the (now washed) orange Rag Master cloth previously mentioned for this. I first sprayed direct onto the panel and found it really easy to spread with it's very reasonable work times before it flashed off, turned the cloth over and buffed to leave a lovely, slick, glossy panel. I also tried it by spraying onto the cloth and wiping over the panel which I preferred and equally as easy to use. That left me with front wings that look like this; Incidentally, that 500gsm cloth was ideal for this purpose; soft enough to minimise the risk of marring, a pile deep enough to hold a good amount of product to spread over a whole panel whilst also buffing to a great shine easily, quickly and safely. Also, you might remember that I was a little concerned that the Rag Master cloths so "fluffy" that they might leave lint behind - as you can see, no lint there. It's a very nice cloth at a reasonable price. With that done, I went back to check the wax. It wasn't quite ready at that point. So I waited longer. About 10-12 minutes (at prexactly 2°C by the by) after it was applied, it passed the swipe test so I set about buffing it. It was very easy to buff off - we're talking Poorboys Natty's or FK type of easy here! It was almost wipe off it was that easy. An absolutely delightful wax to use I must say. When buffed, that looks like this;

The FIA don't have an anti-Lotus agenda...

That's an understatement.

I notice how you seem to avoid answering the question put to you. It was a genuine question by the way, so care to offer an answer at all?

From a typical wax? No. From Nanowax? Yes. Despite the name it's actually an AIO polish coating-based-wax. In fact it's probably the least waxy product to contain the name wax. It''s really just about every post-wash stage in one product (to a degree) as it contains diminishing abrasives, gloss enhancers and leaves protection. Polished Bliss state it doesn't contain fillers so it should have corrected my swirls (the ones I did manage to hit at least) and whilst I've never had cause to doubt them, I've not checked this for myself with an IPA wipe down purely because that would mean having to reapply it again for the protection. PB seem quite keen on it (see the "we say" section here) and I have to say I'm more impressed with it myself each time I use it. I use the Flexipads DA plates (from here) - 70mm for the spot pads & 125mm for the larger pads myself; the required size will depend on the size of your pads though (that's not a euphemism ). Now if you'll excuse me, I'm off to see if PB are paying me commission yet.

Just in case you (or anyone else for that matter) wanted to pick some more up at a bargain price; whilst stocks last.

Two quick updates. Firstly Waxamomo how now officially started their closing down sale, so there's good savings to be had whilst stocks last. And secondly, one of the best snow foams on the market is currently (slightly better than) half price; 5 litres of Car Chem Snow Foam for just £10.20. Stock up whilst it's cheap(er than usual)! Their TFR is also down to £16.99 on that link too if you prefer that to foam. Or as well as.

Nanolex Nanowax content was threatened. Now it is delivered. There were a few fairly minor swirls, especially towards the lower sections of the rear bumper so I thought it was as good an excuse as any to break out the Nanowax and see what sort of corrective and/or filling abilities it actually has, having only used it on a freshly polished surface previously. I applied by machine with a green Lake Country Constant Pressure spot pad at speed 3-4 with moderate pressure, only a couple of fairly quick passes - I did work the Nanowax, but not to be honest I could have been more thorough and worked it a while longer bur it was cold, my back hurt and I'm lazy. Mainly the lazy thing really. Anyway the results; Yes, I'm aware of the damage to the lacquer in the numberplate recess - behind the numberplate is a mess but it's not a high priority to get sorted as it's hidden when the plate is on. I'm also aware that the Velcro tape is coming off. That's only there for my "show" plate (the proper plate is screwed on) but the glue wasn't as strong as the Velcro when I took that plate off this time. It will be sorted by time you read this though. In case you were wondering about the plate, it was purely for this shot; The trouble I go to just for Instagram. Anyway, back to the Nanowax. As you can probably see (or not, as the case may be), the swirls are gone... for the most part. Not quite all gone though; Having inspected the rest of the bumper, the majority of the remaining swirls are located in this area - there's a few RDS and the occasional swirl here and there but this is the worst of it - so it's probably more half-arsed application method more than anything. For a change of pace, no beading shots this time, so that's all... until the postman arrives with my Waxybox.

Sell the house, keep the garage, live in the Z. Problem solved.

I stand corrected and will never question your knowledge again.

Whilst I usually bow down to your superior knowledge on most things car & law related, I think you're wrong on this; my understanding was that Cat A & B write-offs aren't allowed to be returned to the road - Cat B is salvage parts only, the chassis must the crushed. Cat A is nothing can/should be salvaged. I could be wrong of course, that wouldn't be unusual but the RAC seem to agree with what I thought (unless it's changed since 2011).

That. All of it. It's not a Nismo exhaust. It's at the top end of the market no doubt, but it's a low mileage, low tax, GT spec Azure with Nismo bits galore (plus an unidentified after market exhaust) from a dealer. You may well be able to get a HR for not-much-more-money, but can you get one with a Nismo kit & LMGT's for that?!

I didn't notice they were proper sized... I may have to invest now.